When you pop that bezel out be sure the clips do not go flying. Slow steady pressure will help minimize that. Using an actual trim removal tool is good also:
The bezel, as it is called, has some plastic fingers and there are metal clips on those fingers. These clips snap into holes in the console. There are two fingers at about 7 and 5 o'clock. I can't remember where the other ones are, though. Slip your fingers under the inside opening of the bezel and gently rock it up. You'll feel resistance from the metal clips but the bezel section should come straight up. Once those two connectors are free, you gently tug at the remainder, supporting the bezel with both hands. Remember that the cig lighter has a wire connected to it (it is a bullet, snap-on type connector) so be careful that you don't yank too hard on the red wire. Once the bezel is free, you can disconnect the cig lighter wire (it pulls straight off).
There are 4 bolts holding the shifter assembly to the floor hump of the car. Be careful when you get these loose because they can easily slip between the carpet and the floor pan and it's hard to retrieve a lost bolt! Keep a telescoping magnet handy (you have one, right?). There are the "folded stamped nuts" that slide over the hole in the floor for each bolt. These nuts can get out of place so just watch you don't lose them once they are loose.
I found that the best place for the SpeedCal harness was at 12 o'clock. The box itself will sit at about 1 o'clock in between two plastic fins inside the console. Very tidy.
When you have the wiring all done, you can re-install the shifter console. Do not tighten the bolts excessively because you can pinch the SpeedCal harness and that's bad. Snug down the bolts enough so that you have about 1/16" gap between the top of the shifter console and the bezel. This requires trial-and-error fitting (putting the bezel back on and taking it off to make another half-turn on the bolts) but you want it to look good.
Use the blue splice connector but gently close it with a pair of pliers. Just don't crush it to bits. You want the connector to bite through the insulation and click together snugly for a tight connection.
That's all the free advice I can offer. Good luck.
I sell auto parts. so the tools are no problem. I just didnt want to break anything, all plastic parts.
The speed-cal looks pretty easy to wire up, can't wait to have the right speed reading again.
Im going to install it this weekend when I install the o/r H-pipe.