Removing speedo cable from the VSS

91AOD5.0LX

I have a slight sag in my rear
5 Year Member
Feb 20, 2021
1,025
941
133
Lake George NY
Gents,

I took her out for a spin yesterday. I am hearing what I suspect may be my speedo cable making a bit of a racket inside the cabin or at least that’s where it seems to be coming from. The speedo does work fine though. No jumping, cruise control works, etc. it’s a Hard sound to describe. Maybe “static sound” like from speakers is the best I can say to describe what sounds like coming from behind the dash. Like something “tingling” around back there if that makes sense. It really kicks when I accelerate and continues to do so but not as bad when coasting but then nothing when stopped.
My plan is to disconnect the speedo but leave the VSS in place so I can drive and see if the noise disappears. I found an old post where our awesome friend @jrichker posted not to remove the hairpin clip that holds the cable inside the VSS because chances are we won’t be able to get it back in place to hold the cable again upon re-installation.
I trust 1,000% what he says so i am cautious about pulling the pin to get the cable out. However if there is a chance I can get it back in place then I’m down to try it. I’m a glutton for punishment.
With that said, any of you guys have any suggestions on pulling the cable from the transmission side without removing the VSS?
I’d rather not take my dash/guage cluster apart if I don’t have to. Any tips for disconnecting the cable would be helpful.
It’s a 91’ AOD by the way.
IMG_8420.webp
 
Last edited:
I'm so glad you posted this because I have a weird sound coming from behind my cluster area that sounds similar to what you are describing.

I know my speedo cable is fubar'd, but the gauge still works and no bouncing needle, yet. My cable is actually melting down by the exhaust piping before crossing over to the transmission connection. I bet you we are hearing the same noise. I plan on replacing mine anyways (due to said melted cable jacket) but this may just reaffirm what that noise i'm hearing.

As far as your question goes though, i can't help. I've replaced my speedo gear but i don't recall taking apart those two connections.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 91AOD5.0LX
I'm so glad you posted this because I have a weird sound coming from behind my cluster area that sounds similar to what you are describing.

I know my speedo cable is fubar'd, but the gauge still works and no bouncing needle, yet. My cable is actually melting down by the exhaust piping before crossing over to the transmission connection. I bet you we are hearing the same noise. I plan on replacing mine anyways (due to said melted cable jacket) but this may just reaffirm what that noise i'm hearing.

As far as your question goes though, i can't help. I've replaced my speedo gear but i don't recall taking apart those two connections.
I remember the melting issue you had. I have that also. Yea the sound is weird. I feel that’s what it is but want to disconnect it just to confirm because after all, it’s working as it should. I figure if I can’t get it back in then replace the darn thing with a new sensor anyway. Not a fun job though and I would probably end up breaking something else also. lol
 
Last edited:
Here's the info from the 1993 Ford Factory Service Manual. Note the specific instructions for removing the cable from the VSS. I hope this helps.
VSS 1993 Shop Manual.webp
Thank you for this…
So even the book says not to pull that clip.
Ok I’m glad I didn’t rush to it. Almost did.
If I’m reading this correctly the cable can [should] be pulled out with the clip still in place and then pushed back in. Hopefully the internal O-ring stays in place.
I will look into this more and see if others have just pulled it out like that and snapped it back in.
Thanks for this! Helpful!
 
Last edited:
Thank you for this…
So even the book says not to pull that clip.
Ok I’m glad I didn’t rush to it. Almost did.
If I’m reading this correctly the cable can [should] be pulled out with the clip still in place and then pushed back in.
I will look into this more and see if others have just pulled it out like that.
Thanks for this! Helpful!
It's been a long time since I've removed a VSS from a Fox Body Mustang, but I seem to recall trying (and failing) to pull the clip out with the cable in place (I didn't have the shop manual back then). I would clean the area as much as possible and try to get a good look at what happens when you pull on the cable. You might want to use a little Windex or lube to help the cable get past the clip (unless it looks like that will damage something).
I'm glad I was able to help!
 
I seem to recall trying (and failing) to pull the clip out with the cable in place (I didn't have the shop manual back then). I would clean the area as much as possible and try to get a good look at what happens when you pull on the cable. You might want to use a little Windex or lube to help the cable get past the clip (unless it looks like that will damage something).
I'm glad I was able to help!
Cleaning and lubricating makes sense. I will do that for sure. Thanks again!
 
I agree with WR cause I've fought that clip and I'll tell ya how I did, not knowing how....you just do, right, well take a needle nose plyer and grab the loop on that spring and just jiggle it while you wiggle/pull (gently) on the cable. After a good clean up you know,
Inspect the o-rings too,
Or you can just turn up the tunes and wait for it to break :pop:
 
  • Useful
Reactions: 91AOD5.0LX
I agree with WR cause I've fought that clip and I'll tell ya how I did, not knowing how....you just do, right, well take a needle nose plyer and grab the loop on that spring and just jiggle it while you wiggle/pull (gently) on the cable. After a good clean up you know,
Inspect the o-rings too,
Or you can just turn up the tunes and wait for it to break :pop:
Ok, I will give that a shot.
A good cleaning, spray some lube, and be careful not to pull the clip all the way out while jiggling and pulling the cable until it slides out of the VSS. Got it…
I had no idea if the cable could be pulled from the sensor while it was still bolted to the car and then reinstalled and without wrecking anything inside so wanted to check with you guys and do some homework before attempting. That clip makes me nervous.
Thanks @Warhorse Racing and @General karthief for this info.
 
I have a VSS on my office desk at home as a paperweight. I remove the clip all the time from it and reinsert. It can be done. It's a little tricky as you need to insert while spreading the end of the clip.

Maybe it might be tricky to do under the car, but on a bench it's not impossible.

There is an O-ring inside. In one of my old posts somewhere I post what size O-ring this is if you want to replace it. I think i have a baggie labeled somewhere with the size and a few spares i'll see if i can find
 
So, the clip will spring out a little as you pull the speedo cable from the VSS?
The clip has a loop at the end. Pulling the loop slightly makes it spring out just a little bit so the grip on the cable is released and the cable can slide out with the clip still in place.
I am not sure if pulling the cable without sliding the clip out a little bit will cause the clip to spring out a little on its own. I haven’t tried this yet but when that time comes I will do as suggested and slide the clip out slightly with plyers hopefully without it popping out completely.
 
  • Like
Reactions: GOvert
I have a VSS on my office desk at home as a paperweight. I remove the clip all the time from it and reinsert. It can be done. It's a little tricky
Thanks @Mustang5L5.
Good to know it’s not impossible. If it’s still a little tricky on the bench then I definitely don’t want to deal with it while under the car if the whole clip pulls out.
Therefore If it pulls out by accident then it sounds like it’s easier to just pull the VSS at that point and reconnect everything as one unit then reinstall compared to playing with the clip while under the car.

I will find your post regarding the o-ring size. That’s helpful.

Thanks again!
 
  • Like
Reactions: GOvert
Found it

External O-ring is -115. Internal O-ring is -110

 
Last edited:
Thanks @Mustang5L5.
If it’s still a little tricky on the bench then I definitely don’t want to deal with it while under the car if the whole clip pulls out.


Tricky is prob the wrong word to use. Now that i know the trick, i can reinstall it in 5 seconds or so. It's not hard.


It's just that when you are under a car trying to snake the tools in or your hands and can't see the actual slots in the VSS, it might be a little difficult. If you are going to take it out anyway then it's not a huge deal.


Part number for a new clip is E3AZ-9F718-A and i think you might be able to go to ford dealer and grab one for a fw bucks
 
Do you think leaving the VSS in the car and just pulling the cable out and then pushing the cable back in after my test is complete that I will definitely need to replace the internal o-ring?
Wondering if it’s something that gets damaged, pulls out with the cable for sure, or survives. How much of a can of worms am I opening in other words.
I will get the O-Ring on Amazon. Thanks for that! I see LMR sells the clip in case that’s needed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: GOvert
Update:

I got impatient and decided to pull this thing out now and see what happens. I operate like you @gkomo (lol)

Good news is the cable came out very easily by wiggling it and pulling the loop on the clip just a small amount at the same time.
She slid right out.

Second part of the good news is that although it was a fight, I finally got it to push back into the VSS and snap in place properly. Took it for a test drive and everything is working fine. Therefore I didn’t break anything else as usual. Lol

Now for the bad news: The noise continued without the cable connected. No worse and no better. Same deal.

Thanks for the helpful tips in understanding how that unit comes apart. Now I can move on with the investigation and forget about the cable. It Really is good to know how this thing works now.

Thanks @Warhorse Racing, @General karthief, and @Mustang5L5