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automatic timing advance??

  • Thread starter Thread starter 1992mustangLX
  • Start date Start date Jul 20, 2007
1

1992mustangLX

New Member
Jun 13, 2007
65
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0
Jul 20, 2007
#1
  • Jul 20, 2007
  • #1
Car is a 1992 mustang lx 5.0 ho 5 speed. With the trick flow top end kit.

Well I have a question that has stumped me. So i rrecently fined my motor and went to set the timing and found something odd. So i set the timing with the spout out (of course) then while watching the harmonic balance and plugging the spout back in how come the computer doesnt automatically advance the timing. I was under the impression that when i plugged the spout back in the computer ould automically advacnce it, but it does not.

maybe jrichker could give me one of those fancy wiring diagram for the distributer and spout harness and the wiring. So i can figure out what is going on.
 
1

1992mustangLX

New Member
Jun 13, 2007
65
0
0
Jul 21, 2007
#2
  • Jul 21, 2007
  • #2
anyone? I think this issue might be robbing me of some power and also is causing me to fail inspection due to high Hc count on the emissions. Any ideas?
 

jrichker

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Mar 10, 2000
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Dublin GA
Jul 21, 2007
#3
  • Jul 21, 2007
  • #3
The timing should advance several degrees when you put the SPOUT back in.

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif

TFI module differences & pinout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif

Dump the codes and look for code 18, which is a SPOUT circuit problem. Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/





IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
 

white99gt

Founding Member
Aug 8, 2000
4,649
1
0
stockbridge,Ga(near atlanta)
Jul 22, 2007
#4
  • Jul 22, 2007
  • #4
First off the timing may or may not move at idle depending on the timing set on the dizzy.
 
1

1992mustangLX

New Member
Jun 13, 2007
65
0
0
Jul 24, 2007
#5
  • Jul 24, 2007
  • #5
where should my first thing to check to make sure it is functioning properly? I traced the wires and all seem to be properly connected according to the diagrams. The only thing i see that raises attention to me is that the previous owner must have had a bad wire and he replaced the wire all the way back to the ignition coil. In the wiring diagram there is suspose to be a iodized suspresor but there isnt one. Just straight wiring. Would this cause it? thanks for the help
 
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