Axle End Play Even After Trac Lock Rebuild

neil1b

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May 3, 2017
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All,

i have a 91 hatch and have a loud clunk on the drivers rear side while turning and going over bumps at slow speeds.

i replaced all the control arms and axle busings, shocks, etc.

i also recently did the carbon trak lock posi rebuild and complete gear install rebuild as well.

the noise was there before and after all of this so i know nothing i did caused this.

I have found since that the drivers side rear axle has a lit more side to side play than the passenger side.

So much so that it is causing the clunk sound described above.

Any ideas of what is causing this or solutions to fix?

i understand the axles and c clip setup need some play but not this much to make a loud clunk.

i have not tried to swap axles to see if it follows the axle yet.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Neil
 
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Did you use new c clips ? The only thing that stops the axle, when moved in and out, is the pin that goes through the carrier. So...if the c clip groove isn't worn in the axle, the c clip isn't, or the pin isn't... Then its as good as it gets. The axles themselves can't be shimmed.

The carrier can be shimmed left to right but that affects gear wear pattern.

However, c clip eliminators may fix your issue.

Screenshot_2017-11-26-20-32-14.webp
 
Rebuild 'kits' should include a selection of different thicknesses of shims. One shim of the proper thickness should be placed inside each side of the differential assembly, before the friction/steel stack, to reduce axle end-play. If you have too much end play, and as mentioned above your C-clip groove, C-clip, and center pin are not damaged, then your shim thickness is incorrect AND/OR you do not have the proper friction/steel stack. Disassemble the assembly, re-check for wear in the aboev mentioned parts, re-check the friction/steel stack, and if all is OK, increase shim thickness to bring axle end-play into tolerance.

C-clip eliminators are not a wise choice for a vehicle that is driven anywhere but in a straight line all the time. A wiser choice would be 9" axle end conversion.
 

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Before you go pulling your diff apart, do a simple test to see if the clutches are tight enough.

Jack up on side of the rear, and put the car in neutral. See if you can spin the tire by hand. Then repeat the process for the other side.

If you recently rebuilt your T loc as I did, you shouldn't be able to move either tire. If the clutches and steels are holding, then it's a good bet that they are "ordered" properly. It's far from scientific, but I'd do this first before I'd tear into the differential. If one tire turns easily, then maybe you gotta problem there.

A tight clutch set up in the rear will cause a pop ( could be considered a thunk I guess) going around a corner. That would be the clutches on the respective side not wanting to slip as the inside tire turns faster.
With the pin in, you shouldn't be able to move the axle in and out. With a good axle tube bearing at the end of the tube there should also be zero movement in any direction.

But,..
A loud clunk going over a bump is probably not even associated with any part of the rear internally.

Cheap control arms have very rigid bushings in them. Or conversely, a lot of poly replacement bushings are too rigid for street driving. They do not "give" enough when the rear needs to articulate, and they pop, groan, or......Clunk.

This car have subframe connectors?

Have you looked at the floor behind the driver/ passenger side foot wells for cracks, or broken mount points for the control arms?
I'm thinkin that a clunk going around a corner or over a bump could be more likely a torn floor, or mount point popping instead of any axle related stuff..you should probably tear up your carpet, and check.
 
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