Backfiring/Hesitation/Powerloss

Jeff7477 · Sep 13, 2005

Well it looks like the TFI was it.

Won't really know till tomorrow when its cold, but i'm sure it will be fine.

Thanks man

trents99 · Sep 13, 2005

I've been following this since I have similar problems. Only issue mine has is the cold start when you mash the gas and it feels like you're driving an auto with a slipping trans. Once you go through all the gears though it doesn't do it anymore. I still have the stock TFI so I'm gonna try that out myself. Thanks

Jeff7477 · Sep 14, 2005

Well the TFI helped....but didn't solve it. I'm still thinking its distributor related so i'm going to replace the PIP(stator) even thought I have no clue how to.

prestonsgt · Sep 14, 2005

I had the exact same problem you are haveing with my vehicle. i went round and round..replaced cap, rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter, timing chain, valve springs, messed with timing, swapped distibutors, checked all vacuums and all that was wrong was a bad mass air flow sensor....I read that you said you cleaned yours. that is good but if its bad it wont do any good! i would try replaceing the MAF with another one and seeing what it does. it cured my problems and my car was doing exactly what you described to the T!

Jeff7477 · Sep 14, 2005

hmm. guess I will pick up a new meter tomorrow.

TheUser · Sep 14, 2005

if you know someone with a similar mustang w/ same size injectors, borrow theirs first...these things cost quite a bit and they probably won't take it back if that's not the problem. I would assume it would throw a code if your MAF wasn't responding correctly

sgarlic · Sep 15, 2005

I've got SD and mine does the same crap. Don't bother blaming it on the mass air

My fix.. don't get on it until it's warmed up a little.

Jeff7477 · Sep 15, 2005

sgarlic said:
I've got SD and mine does the same crap. Don't bother blaming it on the mass air

My fix.. don't get on it until it's warmed up a little.

But it still does it when its warm

I guess I will buy a new meter and take it back if its not that.

Will try a new stator in distributor also since its only like 16 bucks.

Zero_chance · Sep 15, 2005

Damn Jeff, by the time youre done youll have a new car! If you hit a bump and the car hesitates then Id think it might be some kind of wiring problem. I cant really think of a mechanical problem that would cause a stutter from hitting a jolt. Im trying to think but nothings happening
Need to stop staying up so late watching Adult Swim...

Jeff7477 · Sep 15, 2005

Well hitting bumps makes no difference. Most of the streets here are flat and smooth so its not wiring.

Tried a new MAF....wasn't it. Cost 113 without a core exchange so I wasn't going to keep that one

I'm running out of things to check. Fuel Injectors are original...guess it could be that. Also maybe FPR but I tested that and it was alright....at least to my knowledge of how they should check out.

Maybe O2 sensors....but they have like....10k miles on them so I doubt that.

bleh

Synned · Sep 15, 2005

I have a problem like this where my car feels like it has no power after the car has been driven for a while. I don't think theres any backfiring. The car sucks after a little, but when I first start it up I can squal the tires from a stop etc. I have done:
Plugs, Wires, Cap, Rotor, Cleaned MAF, IAT, new 02's, new Fuel Filter.
What the heckkkkkk

jrichker · Sep 15, 2005

What codes did you get? That's the first step in troubleshooting an EFI engine. A paper clip costs 2 cents and is cheaper than any part you might throw at it in an attempt to fix it.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.

Jeff7477 · Sep 15, 2005

Don't know if you are talking to me or Syn jrichker....but the only codes I get are for my smog system which is gone.

jrichker · Sep 16, 2005

Jeff7477 said:
Don't know if you are talking to me or Syn jrichker....but the only codes I get are for my smog system which is gone.

Post them anywhay - sometimes they are clues to electrical problems that are hidden in the wiring harness.

Jeff7477 · Sep 16, 2005

I get 44 and 94

Jeff7477 · Sep 16, 2005

OK i'm trying to replace my MAP sensor and noticed mine isn't connected to a vacuum line....I thought they were suppose to be. Mine is a '90. Anyone?

Jeff7477 · Sep 16, 2005

ok nevermind, thats for SD cars. Anyways, replaced the IAC and MAP sensor and thats a no go.

Guess I will try FPR tomorrow.

Darkwriter77 · Sep 17, 2005

I know this may seem like a silly question, but did you dump the ECM codes/info after replacing any of the sensors or the TFI module? Y'know, disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes to an hour, then letting it re-learn everything? As someone else said in another thread, sometimes the ECM can learn its way to a bad tune. I reset my ECM every time I changed something, and it would run better for a day, then start acting up again (after it re-learned its nasty habits due to the crappy TFI).

Also, you may want to double-check your distributor cap/rotor. I know you said you replaced it in the first post, but depending on what brand cap you got, sometimes you get stuck with a bum deal. Mine was only a couple of weeks old (Duralast Gold, what a sarcastic product name) and the brass contacts were already corroded and seriously burned-looking - maybe due to the MSD coil I'm running, or maybe just cheap construction, I dunno. That, and I got stuck with a defective IAC, so you may want to double-check some of the things you've already replaced. If they're under warranty, it won't hurt to take them back to the store and have 'em swap you for another. (I'd suspect the EGR valve first, in that instance.)

This is one seriously persistent demon you've got going on there, guy. Hope you get it exorcised soon - Satan may have jumped out of my engine and into yours, and he's learned some new tricks!

Jeff7477 · Sep 17, 2005

Well I got a new FPR, but have no idea how to install it. Seems like I would have to take the whole upper intake off to get to all three bolts.

I also took the vacuum line off of the EGR and plugged it. It may also have something to do with that. Seemed like it ran better. I have a blockoff plate and egr delete thing coming from ford fuel injection soon so we will see how that turns out.

Any tips on doing the FPR?

dilligaf · Sep 17, 2005

Yes, you have to remove the upper intake. Unless someone else knows of another way of doing it.

Backfiring/Hesitation/Powerloss

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