Bad MAF?

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.



See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is less than $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/p-7208-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx– It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

everytime mine did that, unhooked it and it was the same or actually sometimes revved better, If i changed out the maf, it ran mint.....but for some reason my car doesnt like them, ive goen through 2 or more in like 9 months, not brand new ones but worked fine when they came off the other car

Black1987Stang said:

everytime mine did that, unhooked it and it was the same or actually sometimes revved better, If i changed out the maf, it ran mint.....but for some reason my car doesnt like them, ive goen through 2 or more in like 9 months, not brand new ones but worked fine when they came off the other car

Click to expand...

You don't have an over-oiled K&N or similar filter do you?