Baer 13" rear brake upgrade

Mustang4119 · Sep 3, 2006

I just installed the baer rear 13" brake kit. Everything cleared and it was fine, then I took it for a drive. Im having problems, the bracket that holds the caliper is grinding onto the edge of the rotor. I have no idea why. It smells so bad and its heating up and peeling the endings off the rotor. Are the slider pins frozen?? They moved in and out, but that wouldnt cause grinding from actual bracket on rotor. Also brake pads are scoring the rotor. Ths kit was made horrible, why do i have problems. Did putting the wheel back on and tightening it make something move? I heard a little grinding when I backed the car up, but I thought everything just needed to be broken in, but I knew it wasnt right. Also car seems like its slowing down not moving freely. Any of this have to do with the ebrake cable being so tight and extended to fit in, since moved outward more?

SaleenGT2001 · Sep 3, 2006

Mustang4119 · Sep 3, 2006

SaleenGT2001 said:

This is the left rear
View attachment 443313
View attachment 443315
View attachment 443317

This is the right rear
View attachment 443318

Mustang5L5 · Sep 3, 2006

What bracket is hitting the rotor?? The U-shaped bracket on the caliper??

Mustang4119 · Sep 3, 2006

Mustang5L5 said:
What bracket is hitting the rotor?? The U-shaped bracket on the caliper??

No on the side, look at the rotor on the edge, the actual bracket that the caliper attaches too. I dont see how that moved when it was clearing fine when i put them on. Alot of metal got shimmed off from the metal to metal grinding.

View attachment 443310

Mustang5L5 · Sep 3, 2006

Well most likely it cleared fine with the wheel off but with the wheel on and torqued down it pulled the rotor in.

Can you use washers on the bolt on the backside as a spacer to move the bracket to where it fits?

You could also use a grinder and grind the slot wider to clear

Mustang4119 · Sep 3, 2006

Mustang5L5 said:
Well most likely it cleared fine with the wheel off but with the wheel on and torqued down it pulled the rotor in.

Can you use washers on the bolt on the backside as a spacer to move the bracket to where it fits?

You could also use a grinder and grind the slot wider to clear

What do you mean use spacers on the backside of the bracket, would that push it up more? Ya I was thinking of grinding that bracket wider and taller. Putting wheels back on would move a rotor?? How if its on the studs, how does it move upward?

Mustang5L5 · Sep 3, 2006

Ok i misunderstood what you said was rubbing. It's rubber the top of the rotor?

In that case, just grind it open a little more, but don't remove too much material...just enough

Mustang4119 · Sep 3, 2006

Mustang5L5 said:
Ok i misunderstood what you said was rubbing. It's rubber the top of the rotor?

In that case, just grind it open a little more, but don't remove too much material...just enough

Thats what Im going to do. Also do my rotors look scored from the pads? You think there locking up? Probably I think its just the grinding issue, need to fix that asap before driving it again. Already ruined the rotors a little from heating up so bad and grinding.

markwsoil · Sep 3, 2006

I'm not the world's greatest mechanic, but I do know that on typical rear brakes, the pistons have to be adjusted properly. They're not floating like they are in the front. You have to screw them in or out to get the proper braking force. Then the action of the parking brake cable adjusts them for wear each time you pull it up.

The Baer may be set up differently, but if you're getting excessive braking force on the rears, they may be out of adjustment. Something to check.

Mustang5L5 · Sep 3, 2006

The rear pistons on the Mustang are not adjustable. They do need to be screwed in to push the pistons in but that is only for clearance issues. A few pumps of the brake pedal will expand the pistons back to proper range.

However, the baer rotors are the same thickness as the GT rotors, so it should be a non-issue.

Saleen4971 · Sep 3, 2006

are you sureyou torqued down teh caliper and bridge bolts properly?

Mustang4119 · Sep 3, 2006

Saleen4971 said:
are you sureyou torqued down teh caliper and bridge bolts properly?

What do you mean properly? I just screwed them back in the holes where they were before, but I used 1 longer bolt that was supplied with the kit and screwed it in, dont know if that made any difference.

Mustang5L5 · Sep 3, 2006

Most likely it's just production variances in the caliper bracket by Ford. Just grind the slots slightly bigger and call it a day.

As for the scoring on the rotor, most likely it's due to heat. Don't drive until to fix the problem. The rotor should be fine and once fixed the pads will wear in properly.

Saleen4971 · Sep 3, 2006

by properly i meant tight enough. is there any room for adjustment on the relocation brackets? i would assume no, but maybe there is room to move the bracket out more, or mess around with it?

having the bolts loose would let the caliper & bridge flop around, and if the top bolt is loose, it would grind the rotor, the bottom loose would grind the wheel

Mustang5L5 · Sep 3, 2006

My understanding from his post is that it's hitting the top of the goove in the bracket, not the sides. It's more like the caliper isn't far enough away from the center of the rotor and not side to side interference.

Mustang4119 · Sep 3, 2006

Mustang5L5 said:
My understanding from his post is that it's hitting the top of the goove in the bracket, not the sides. It's more like the caliper isn't far enough away from the center of the rotor and not side to side interference.

Ya I will grind it down a bit, probably rebleed brakes and everything.

Torinalth · Sep 4, 2006

the scoring will happen, more aggressive pads, slightly softer rotor compount... similer in theory to tires. it will get scored nomatter whta you do. jsut the nature of the brakes.

Torinalth

san~man · Sep 4, 2006

Unfortunate as it is, this is one of the reasons I decided not to buy this setup and go with the Bullitt kit for the rear. I read of a few people that had problems so I decided against it.

Mustang4119 · Sep 10, 2006

what about the e brake cable is stretched out and its still engaged little? Do I need a new cable? It doesnt even hold up good on hills, I always put it in gear.

Baer 13" rear brake upgrade

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