I just installed the baer rear 13" brake kit. Everything cleared and it was fine, then I took it for a drive. Im having problems, the bracket that holds the caliper is grinding onto the edge of the rotor. I have no idea why. It smells so bad and its heating up and peeling the endings off the rotor. Are the slider pins frozen?? They moved in and out, but that wouldnt cause grinding from actual bracket on rotor. Also brake pads are scoring the rotor. Ths kit was made horrible, why do i have problems. Did putting the wheel back on and tightening it make something move? I heard a little grinding when I backed the car up, but I thought everything just needed to be broken in, but I knew it wasnt right. Also car seems like its slowing down not moving freely. Any of this have to do with the ebrake cable being so tight and extended to fit in, since moved outward more?
Baer 13" rear brake upgrade
- Thread starter Mustang4119
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SaleenGT2001
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SaleenGT2001 said:
This is the left rear
View attachment 443313
View attachment 443315
View attachment 443317
This is the right rear
View attachment 443318
Mustang5L5 said:
No on the side, look at the rotor on the edge, the actual bracket that the caliper attaches too. I dont see how that moved when it was clearing fine when i put them on. Alot of metal got shimmed off from the metal to metal grinding.
View attachment 443310
Well most likely it cleared fine with the wheel off but with the wheel on and torqued down it pulled the rotor in.
Can you use washers on the bolt on the backside as a spacer to move the bracket to where it fits?
You could also use a grinder and grind the slot wider to clear
Can you use washers on the bolt on the backside as a spacer to move the bracket to where it fits?
You could also use a grinder and grind the slot wider to clear
Ok i misunderstood what you said was rubbing. It's rubber the top of the rotor?
In that case, just grind it open a little more, but don't remove too much material...just enough
In that case, just grind it open a little more, but don't remove too much material...just enough
I'm not the world's greatest mechanic, but I do know that on typical rear brakes, the pistons have to be adjusted properly. They're not floating like they are in the front. You have to screw them in or out to get the proper braking force. Then the action of the parking brake cable adjusts them for wear each time you pull it up.
The Baer may be set up differently, but if you're getting excessive braking force on the rears, they may be out of adjustment. Something to check.
The Baer may be set up differently, but if you're getting excessive braking force on the rears, they may be out of adjustment. Something to check.
The rear pistons on the Mustang are not adjustable. They do need to be screwed in to push the pistons in but that is only for clearance issues. A few pumps of the brake pedal will expand the pistons back to proper range.
However, the baer rotors are the same thickness as the GT rotors, so it should be a non-issue.
However, the baer rotors are the same thickness as the GT rotors, so it should be a non-issue.
Most likely it's just production variances in the caliper bracket by Ford. Just grind the slots slightly bigger and call it a day.
As for the scoring on the rotor, most likely it's due to heat. Don't drive until to fix the problem. The rotor should be fine and once fixed the pads will wear in properly.
As for the scoring on the rotor, most likely it's due to heat. Don't drive until to fix the problem. The rotor should be fine and once fixed the pads will wear in properly.
by properly i meant tight enough. is there any room for adjustment on the relocation brackets? i would assume no, but maybe there is room to move the bracket out more, or mess around with it?
having the bolts loose would let the caliper & bridge flop around, and if the top bolt is loose, it would grind the rotor, the bottom loose would grind the wheel
having the bolts loose would let the caliper & bridge flop around, and if the top bolt is loose, it would grind the rotor, the bottom loose would grind the wheel
My understanding from his post is that it's hitting the top of the goove in the bracket, not the sides. It's more like the caliper isn't far enough away from the center of the rotor and not side to side interference.
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