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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-

Ball Joints

  • Thread starter Thread starter Derek1984
  • Start date Start date Nov 27, 2006
D

Derek1984

New Member
Aug 18, 2006
11
0
2
Spring Hill TN
Nov 27, 2006
#1
  • Nov 27, 2006
  • #1
I Lowered my 98 mustang gt with the ford racing springs and my ball joints have went out after 112,000 miles, should i replace them with the steeda ball joints or just stick with the factory ball joints?
 

Kurgan

Founding Member
Jan 31, 2001
3,028
1
58
Palm Beach Gardens, FL
Nov 27, 2006
#2
  • Nov 27, 2006
  • #2
The Steeda balljoints adjust your suspension geometry if your car is lowered. I have them on my car and I recommend them. My original balljoints seemed like crap and liked to make a clunk noise when turning in reverse (like out of my driveway). It all went away when I got the Steeda ball joints.
 

HoustonGT

Gilded Gelding
Apr 6, 2003
1,418
0
0
Houston
Nov 27, 2006
#3
  • Nov 27, 2006
  • #3
Kurgan said:
The Steeda balljoints adjust your suspension geometry if your car is lowered. I have them on my car and I recommend them. My original balljoints seemed like crap and liked to make a clunk noise when turning in reverse (like out of my driveway). It all went away when I got the Steeda ball joints.
Click to expand...
How hard was it to change out the ball joints?
 

DropTopPony

Noob Slayer
Founding Member
Aug 13, 2002
2,570
3
48
south jersey
Nov 27, 2006
#4
  • Nov 27, 2006
  • #4
I swapped the 04 Cobra A arms when i did my springs etc. They are different then stock (designed to work with the lower springs) and have ball joints installed. Also improved steering alot. They cost me just under $140 for the set and were easy to install.
 

mity2

I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
Jul 24, 2003
2,872
3
48
StateCollege PA
Nov 27, 2006
#5
  • Nov 27, 2006
  • #5
HoustonGT said:
How hard was it to change out the ball joints?
Click to expand...

If its not rusted to poop, about 10 min on each side.

If its rusted (like that on my T/A was, and cutter pin fused itself), then may take alot longer. I had to brake out my dremal, and cut threaded rod off to replace one on T/A
 

HoustonGT

Gilded Gelding
Apr 6, 2003
1,418
0
0
Houston
Nov 27, 2006
#6
  • Nov 27, 2006
  • #6
mity2 said:
If its not rusted to poop, about 10 min on each side.

If its rusted (like that on my T/A was, and cutter pin fused itself), then may take alot longer. I had to brake out my dremal, and cut threaded rod off to replace one on T/A
Click to expand...
Well, the cotter pin is easily removable because i had to take it out when switching out my springs a while ago. I think i'll change the outer tie-rod ends as well while im at it.
 
T

twothousandgt

Member
Mar 23, 2006
34
0
6
Woodinville, WA
Nov 28, 2006
#7
  • Nov 28, 2006
  • #7
could you guys show me a picture of that area, so I can see where slash what the balljoint looks like in place? I need to know where to look to see if I already have the steedas, but I dont think so because my stang makes clunking sounds during turning also. moreso in reverse. thanks guys
 

Kurgan

Founding Member
Jan 31, 2001
3,028
1
58
Palm Beach Gardens, FL
Nov 28, 2006
#8
  • Nov 28, 2006
  • #8
The balljoint is installed on the outer end of the A-arm. It is a press-in fit. Just look for the bottom pivot point of the front wheel spindle/brake assembly, and you'll find it.

Here's a picture of the Steeda X2s (left) vs. the OEM balljoint (right) from Steeda's site:

 
T

twothousandgt

Member
Mar 23, 2006
34
0
6
Woodinville, WA
Nov 28, 2006
#9
  • Nov 28, 2006
  • #9
hmm.. like near my bumpsteer kit?
 

Kurgan

Founding Member
Jan 31, 2001
3,028
1
58
Palm Beach Gardens, FL
Nov 28, 2006
#10
  • Nov 28, 2006
  • #10
It's what connects the spindle to the A-arm. If you look at the backside of your wheel spindle, straight down from above, you'll see a large nut that holds the spindle on. That nut goes onto the top threads of the balljoint. If you remove your strut and spring and let the A-arm drop down, all that's holding your wheel spindle on is the balljoint.
 
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