Resolved Steering won't return to centre

Tom77

Member
Nov 15, 2024
54
11
18
UK
Hi folks. I've had front and back control arms, springs and shocks changed to improve the ride on my 1990 Vert - this has worked really well. Unfortunately my steering wheel now does not want to return to centre which feels odd and at times, dangerous (although the ride is way better). I've read this could be the new ball joints causing binding - I went with 'stock' LMR replacement control arms that came with the ball joints. Should I be replacing the ball joints with lower friction non-stock options? Thanks for any thoughts. PXL_20250406_111223305.MP.webp
 
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Does the car track straight, but just the steering wheel is off center? Or do you mean the car doesn't track straight but goes in the direction the steering wheel is pointing? Maybe just needs a good alignment after all the work?
 
The former yes. It tracks straight but steering wheel is off centre. Also when straightening the steering wheel after a turn it feels like there is resistance to it returning to centre. If I didn't return it to centre myself the car would head to wherever the wheel is pointing
 
The former yes. It tracks straight but steering wheel is off centre. Also when straightening the steering wheel after a turn it feels like there is resistance to it returning to centre. If I didn't return it to centre myself the car would head to wherever the wheel is pointing

:ot:

Your avatar looks very similar to one of our "Old Head" members. I was was about to make fun of your spelling of "center" and ask if you were from the UK until I actually [looked] at your member badge. LoL
 
The former yes. It tracks straight but steering wheel is off centre. Also when straightening the steering wheel after a turn it feels like there is resistance to it returning to centre. If I didn't return it to centre myself the car would head to wherever the wheel is pointing
My guess is it needs a good alignment. If there's resistance to bring the wheel to center AND the car tracks straight but follows the where the steering wheel pointed, just sounds like alignment to me. Like the resistance you are feeling is you're basically 'turning' the car to center (the steering wheel center), if that makes sense.
 
Thanks, much appreciated. I also get some vibration on the steering wheel when braking - not heavy juddering or pulling to one side but some vibration - had put that down to the flexible nature of the beast and am installing a strut tower brace but I'm guessing alignment may contribute to that steering wheel vibration also?
 
The LMR stock replacement control arms are garbage. I had the same issue with them 8 years ago when I redid mine and it sounds like they haven't changed them a bit. They sent me 2 sets. Same issue with both of them. The ball joints were so tight you could hear the power steering pump beg for mercy when turning and the steering would not recenter itself. I bet if you take the tie rod off of the spindle and try to turn the spindle by hand you will have a hard time moving it. I ended up getting the Ford Racing ones and they worked perfectly, but they are no longer available from LMR. Swapping Moog ball joints in might fix it for you.
 
The LMR stock replacement control arms are garbage. I had the same issue with them 8 years ago when I redid mine and it sounds like they haven't changed them a bit. They sent me 2 sets. Same issue with both of them. The ball joints were so tight you could hear the power steering pump beg for mercy when turning and the steering would not recenter itself. I bet if you take the tie rod off of the spindle and try to turn the spindle by hand you will have a hard time moving it. I ended up getting the Ford Racing ones and they worked perfectly, but they are no longer available from LMR. Swapping Moog ball joints in might fix it for you.
V helpful thanks. Going to ensure alignment has been done properly too
 
That sir, is a can of worms.

My suggestion would be a Cobra, 5-Lug, disk brake conversion (I'm in the midst of this myself).

Short of that, I would suggest a set of the best non-drilled, non-slotted, street rotors that you can find and the associated pads. I have the Powerstop setup and it performs pretty well IMO. I'm making twice the HP and TQ of the stock engine.

If you had an O'Reileys down the street, I'd recommend their best rotors.

Skip any China steel if it is at all possible.
 
also given I am in the UK and even the US 'specialist garages' here don't see many Foxbodys do I need to find out the 'factory' caster settings/specs for them to adjust to? Thank you
 
Caster is what allows the car to "return to center" so you want a much as you can get.

If you end up needing a set of CC plates then Maximum Motorsports are the gold standard when it comes to this aftermarket part. Also, if you go this route they have suggested alignment specs in the installation instructions.

This is what I would set it to if it is completely stock:

As much positive caster as you can get with the same amount on both sides. So if one side is 3 and one is 4 then set them both to 3.
0.5 to 1.0 negative camber, again equal amounts on both sides.
1/16th-inch total toe in
 
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V helpful thanks. Going to ensure alignment has been done properly too
THANK YOU!
The LMR stock replacement control arms are garbage. I had the same issue with them 8 years ago when I redid mine and it sounds like they haven't changed them a bit. They sent me 2 sets. Same issue with both of them. The ball joints were so tight you could hear the power steering pump beg for mercy when turning and the steering would not recenter itself. I bet if you take the tie rod off of the spindle and try to turn the spindle by hand you will have a hard time moving it. I ended up getting the Ford Racing ones and they worked perfectly, but they are no longer available from LMR. Swapping Moog ball joints in might fix it for you.
THANK YOU - MOOG BALL JOINTS HAVE COMPLETELY SORTED IT!!!