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Ball socket/drivers side exhaust leak

  • Thread starter Thread starter Marlboro_Man
  • Start date Start date Mar 12, 2008
M

Marlboro_Man

Member
Sep 30, 2005
437
1
18
Houston, TX
Mar 12, 2008
#1
  • Mar 12, 2008
  • #1
Well I picked up a used SLP o/r X to try out, so I installed it last night along with a new clutch cable. This is on my 2002 GT with Mach1 motor.


Today when i drove the car I realized I needed to adjust the cable a little. So up the car goes on jackstands. I'm under the car with it running working on the clutch cable and notice what sounds like an exhaust leak. Sure enough the drivers side ball and socket is leaking. I tried tightening it but it was already as tight as it could go. So I pulled it off and tried repositioning it and retightened it. Same thing, I can stick my hand around the flange with the motor runing and actually feel the exhaust coming out.

SO

I pulled the SLP pipe out and re-installed my BBK o/r H thats been on there just fine for a month now. It does the same **** now!

I don't know whats going on here. Is there supposed to be a gasket for the driverside ball/socket flange??? I've never used one, but i do remember seeing some round "wax" looking gaskets for the ball flanges before.
 
M

Marlboro_Man

Member
Sep 30, 2005
437
1
18
Houston, TX
Mar 13, 2008
#2
  • Mar 13, 2008
  • #2
Anybody?
 

COramprat

...I can take it. I think.
20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 2, 2003
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Sea of Tranquility
Mar 13, 2008
#3
  • Mar 13, 2008
  • #3
No gasket but you can try some high temp RTV gasket maker to seal it up. I used it in conjunction with the cheapo gasket Mac provides with the Prochamber and no leaks at all.
 
M

Marlboro_Man

Member
Sep 30, 2005
437
1
18
Houston, TX
Mar 13, 2008
#4
  • Mar 13, 2008
  • #4
I would rtv it but the problem is that even with the bolts completly tight it's still able to be moved around a little on the flange. I took the x pipe and had to cut it since the previous owner welded the joints instead of using the clamps, I then took the drivers side piece and bolted it up and i was able to move the thing around on the flange. It's not much but it's too much at the same time.

It's like the pipe flange is bigger then the manifold "ball" flange just a little. Best way i can describe it.
 

nyuk98gt

15 Year Member
Oct 10, 2000
1,427
6
79
Chesterfield, MO
Mar 13, 2008
#5
  • Mar 13, 2008
  • #5
Marlboro_Man:

Some mid-pipes for Mustangs have a "trumpet bell" insert that fits in the socket. Maybe the bell is missing? Call SLP and ask if they will ship a new bell for you. I bet that is the problem. But, if it isn't......

Use a floor jack to get that pipe parallel with the bottom of the car. That will help. Do you have "shoulderless" studs installed? I didn't have this problem (older model car) but the newer models have studs that have a raised section that will not allow the pipe flange to cinch up. Maybe this is only on the passenger side but you can check the driver side and see if there's a shoulder on the studs. Last thing, +1 for the high-temp (O2-sensor-friendly copper) RTV -- Permatex makes it.

HTH,

Chris
 
M

Marlboro_Man

Member
Sep 30, 2005
437
1
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Houston, TX
Mar 13, 2008
#6
  • Mar 13, 2008
  • #6
nyuk98gt said:
Marlboro_Man:

Some mid-pipes for Mustangs have a "trumpet bell" insert that fits in the socket. Maybe the bell is missing? Call SLP and ask if they will ship a new bell for you. I bet that is the problem. But, if it isn't......

Use a floor jack to get that pipe parallel with the bottom of the car. That will help. Do you have "shoulderless" studs installed? I didn't have this problem (older model car) but the newer models have studs that have a raised section that will not allow the pipe flange to cinch up. Maybe this is only on the passenger side but you can check the driver side and see if there's a shoulder on the studs. Last thing, +1 for the high-temp (O2-sensor-friendly copper) RTV -- Permatex makes it.

HTH,

Chris
Click to expand...
I'll check on the trumpet bell tommorow, but one pipe is slp (X) and one is BBK (H) and both are doing this.

The drivers side studs DO have shoulders on them. I was thinking about trying to get some studs without them or get some bolts and thread them through the manifold holes.

Thanks for the replies!
 

blkhorse

Founding Member
Oct 30, 1999
345
1
18
Mar 13, 2008
#7
  • Mar 13, 2008
  • #7
the drivers side has spacers on the studs(at least my 99 does). they are a pain to get off but they do come off. you may have to use locknuts. the purpose of the spacers is to keep the nuts tight.
 
M

Marlboro_Man

Member
Sep 30, 2005
437
1
18
Houston, TX
Mar 13, 2008
#8
  • Mar 13, 2008
  • #8
No spacers on mine. I just looked at my old sohc manifolds and they have the same "shouldered" studs on them.

nyuk98gt- Have any pics of those "trumpet bell" inserts?
 

blkhorse

Founding Member
Oct 30, 1999
345
1
18
Mar 14, 2008
#9
  • Mar 14, 2008
  • #9
those are not shoulders,they are spacers,they rust in place. I know because I had the pleasure of breaking my studs and had to remove them. call a ford dealer(parts) and ask them. I had to use a torch and visegrips to remove my spacers
 

SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta
Founding Member
Nov 22, 2001
3,501
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119
Motor City
Mar 14, 2008
#10
  • Mar 14, 2008
  • #10
I just installed an H-pipe and noticed a problem. The metal hangers that bolts it to the manifold needs to be trimmed because it hits the stud coming out of the manifold. I had a leak there, and the bolts would not tighten up. I took my MAC grinder with a 3" cut off wheel and notched both sides till it would clear the studs. After that it was perfect.
 

nyuk98gt

15 Year Member
Oct 10, 2000
1,427
6
79
Chesterfield, MO
Mar 14, 2008
#11
  • Mar 14, 2008
  • #11
Marlboro_Man:


Alas, no pics. But it is a fact that the x-pipe manufacturers ship out a trumpet bell for certain model years. I didn't need one and I believe the bells started shipping with the +99's. Sorry that I can't help you out with a pic.

Chris
 
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