Base Timing Question

k00ksta

Member
May 13, 2007
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Chicago
Do we set the balancer to 10* BTDC on the Compression Stroke right off the bat or do we set the balancer to 0* BTDC (which I think is called the Base Time) and then with spout connector out, start the car and time it with the timing light to 10* BTDC? I am confused.
 
You should always pull the spout connector and make sure the timing is correct. No point in guessing when you can make sure. I recommend you use your first option, then verify the timing is actually 10btdc.
 
Hrm

Ok so basically I first set it to 0* BTDC on the balancer then start the car with spout unplugged .. Once car is started I time it with timing light to 10* BTDC correct? that is my question. Or do I start at 10* BTDC start the car and make sure its at 10* BTDC with the timing light?
 
Either one works, it amounts to the same thing. The car will run a bit better if you first set it to 10btdc, but it won't hurt anything if you set it to 0 first.

Do you want someone to tell you which one? Set the balancer to 10btdc first.
 
Thanks

Haha yes thats what I was looking for. For some reason after the winter here I am having issues starting the car and just wanted to rule out that my Timing was not out of wack. But ya I have literally tried both as well as checked for spark, fuel, ect and all checks out fairly ok. My plugs I will say look ok but a few of them look like they need the gapping checked. so I will continue to diagnose it. Thanks again for the response :nice:
 
hrm

Be sure your rotor was properly indexed or the injector timing can be off.

Well If I align the Damper to 10* BTDC and then stab the dizzy in with the rotor pointing at the #1 spark plug wire the car should start Correct? well for some reason its not. But if I turn the dizzy clockwise literally as far as I can turn it I can get the car to start granite I do have to fiddle with the throttle. so what does this mean? when I go clock wise does it increase my timing by that amount? and possibly how much do you think it could be adding. Should I also try to go higher than 10* BTDC and re-stab and align to #1? thanks for any help! :shrug:

-- Edit

Ok I set it to 10* BTC on the damper and turning over a few times and pumping the gas (and doing the hold to floor trick to shut off injectors) I can get it to start to fire and eventually fire but I literally have to be on the gas to keep it running it wont idle. So by turning clockwise on the dizzy does that add timing (I think it adds) and if im getting it to fire here but not completely idle what do you guys think I should do? keep adding timing or subtracting? Also I know im in the compression stroke I did the finger trick in the #1 plug (which works excellent lol) thanks guys
 
hrm I get nothing with it at 0* it almost seems like if I have it at 10* I can get it to want to start and like I said by pumping the gas it sometimes will start up but of course not idle on its own. and also if now I try to turn the dizzy clock wise from the rotors point at 10* it does not seem to help.
 
Any signs that the balancer has slipped?

If you can get it to run SPOUT out, I'd have someone hold the throttle while you check timing with a timing light. The fact that it won't idle on its own can be caused by something else so I would not read too much into that.

That said, in general if you retard the timing, the idle is lowered. Retard SPOUT out timing too much and the cars can have issues idling.
 
Isnt the damper keyed so it cannot slip? Also I just orded New Plug wires and Plugs, what gap do you think I should be using as well?

There is a key and keyway interface for the crank and damper. But.......the inner and outer rings are bonded and can separate. When this occurs, your timing marks are useless.
 
If you cant tell if the dampner has slipped, just put it on '0' and pull the #1 plug and stuff something in there to see if its all the way up. If its not up all the way, then you need the dampner......I seen one that slipped, and you couldnt really tell..................
 
Car is finally Starting

Ok I purchased a set of NGK Spark plugs and gapped them to what Trick Flow recommends me to gap them to, I also have replaced all my plug wires with some Accel wires I set the engine to 10* BTDC on the damper and stabbed the dizzy so the #1 wire is in line with that also made sure im on the compression stroke with the finger in the #1 plug trick and now to get the car to start if I turn it over and pump the throttle I can get it to sputter and then fire up. Now it will not run for that long and usually will die if I let of the gas at all. Any idea's what could be the problem here? dirty fuel filter? im not even sure so any help would be mucho appreciated.
 
I know yuo checked, but it doe sound like you might still have the dizzy out 180*. I recommend rotating the crank one more turn and re-stab the dizzy at 10*btdc. Just to see if it runs better.
 
Finally Sweet Success

Nope I got it! I looked in my chilton/haynes manual and seen that the stock 5.0 uses a gapping of 0.052 and when I called Trick flow today they told me to set the new plugs to 0.035 which I did .. So I pulled em and changed the gapping and she fired right up altho the dizzy was still off a little, with the wife in the car to turn it over I was able to turn the dizzy a little and boom got it almost dead nuts on. Car now fires up on first key turn and idles perfectly man you dont even know how glad I am to see this thing fire up and sound rough and tuff again haha Thanks again for everyones help you guys are excellent! :nice::nice::nice::lol::lol: