battery box question

No help on the battery boxes, but help with the wiring...

For a battery cut off switch, see http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=42225
is the switch http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74102_inst.pdf is the installation instructions.
Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you will
be good to go.

Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire. The 10
gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that the stock Mustang
wiring.

There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.

Wire the battery to the two 1/2" posts as shown in the diagram.

The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug
there is a green wire. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on when
the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the
40' of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the
splices. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for some excellent
help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.

Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire.
Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or
chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp
on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs.
Do not add the jumper between the 1/2" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.

How it works:
The green wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies power
to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the run position. Turn the
Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage
regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.

The fuse & wiring in the following diagram are for a 3G alternator. The stock alternator uses a dark green fuse link wire that connects to 2 black/orange wires. Always leave them connected to the starter solenoid even if you have a 3G alternator.



See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer)
& Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero
ground problems.

One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot
on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the
rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean
shiny spot on the block.

One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to
the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt
and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal
around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.

The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect
(about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the
ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground
in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an
absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Note: The quick disconnect may have fallen victim to damage or removal by
a previous owner. However, it is still of utmost importance that the black/green
wires have a high quality ground..

Picture courtesy timewarped1972

Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo
shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing
to cover the lugs and make things look nice.

I know the Moroso and Jegs plastic boxes are sealed and NHRA legal.

They both come with rubber seals for the tops and have grommets for the wires to go through. and also a vent tube.

JRicker,

when the car's running what should the green votage regulator wire read at? how many volts. etc..?

also my battery box is vented with cable grouments but not sealed at the top and i think it's race legal. (Taylor batt. relocation kit w/ aluminum box)

GSXRMIXXER said:

JRicker,

when the car's running what should the green votage regulator wire read at? how many volts. etc..?

also my battery box is vented with cable grouments but not sealed at the top and i think it's race legal. (Taylor batt. relocation kit w/ aluminum box)

Click to expand...

nevermind obviously it should read 12-14V's since it's hooked up to the battery cable. ......

Mustang30240 said:

Are all aluminum battery boxes the same? Are some tech legal and some aren't? If it has a top to it does that mean its sealed?

Click to expand...

Just use the moroso box, i used the talyor box, and IMO that was a mistake, try working with the battery in an aluminum box, not fun.

GSXRMIXXER said:

nevermind obviously it should read 12-14V's since it's hooked up to the battery cable. ......

Click to expand...

The green wire is not connected to the battery cable, it is connected to the alternator voltage regulator. If you connect the green wire to the battery cable, the alternator will never shut off.

The Moroso 74102 switch has two sets of isolated contacts. The smaller set of contacts are used to turn off the voltage regulator, which shuts down the alternator.

Mustang30240 said:

alright im going to bring this back, I have been reading on other forums about doing this a different way with a 3g. Taking the power and connecting it to the cut off switch. Is one way better than the other?

Click to expand...

What you have in the drawing I provided is the preferred method. It shuts down the alternator the same way that it is done with stock wiring. It turns off the regulator power which shuts down the alternator.