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Electrical Battery Drain / slight draw

  • Thread starter Thread starter R82148V
  • Start date Start date Jun 2, 2022

R82148V

Active Member
May 26, 2020
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Jun 2, 2022
#1
  • Jun 2, 2022
  • #1
Okay here it is and I'll try to make it quick... I've been chasing a parasite draw for some time now and I believe I have two.. Have a new batt. All over the internet it states you should be in the .50mA or less range. I was reading 3.25 and the batt would drain pretty quickly over a short period of time. Pulled all fuses which didn't make a difference. I read that it could be the Alt. Since it was the stock alt, I pulled the "D" connector and that seemed to bring it down to 2.85. I figured this was a good time to upgrade to a 3G. Installed the new alt and the draw now stayed at 2.85. The batt doesn't drain as bad but it does come down so now im looking for the other draw. I disconnected all four connections on the + side of the Starter solenoid except the batt cable of course. The draw was gone! I tried each connection, one at a time, back on the solenoid and found that the 2.85 draw came back once the "blue" connection was on. Going through wiring diagrams, this is KAM, EEC power relay and a few other things, but I'm having a hard time understanding the diagrams. I started to pull everything and nothing brings down that 2.85. I pulled the EEC power relay, ignition module, fuel pump relay, WOT relay, you name it! Nothing brings it down.

The batt voltage was 12.73 volts last night around 9:30pm
This morning, I checked it 9am and its down to 12.71.

I know KAM has a constant draw but I don't know how much its supposed to be and or how much should your batt drain down daily.
I dont have a radio in it or anything aftermarket. Like I said, All fuses out and the draw is still there.

I'm stumped. Am I just chasing ghost or am I on to something?

Thanks!
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Jun 2, 2022
#2
  • Jun 2, 2022
  • #2
By "blue" connection, do you mean the blue fusible link?

What year is the car?

So are you saying that pulling the EEC power relay does not cause the draw to drop? If that's the case, unplug the ECU. The wire that feeds the EEC relay also jumps to feed pin 1 on the ECU. It's possible that is the source of the draw.

With the ECU and EEC relay remove, there should be no draw. If there is, then the wire may be shorting somewhere between the starter relay connection block and the pass kick panel area.

 

R82148V

Active Member
May 26, 2020
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Jun 2, 2022
#3
  • Jun 2, 2022
  • #3
Sorry about that..
Correct. The "blue" connection, meaning the blue fusible link.
This is an 87.
Yeah, when the EEC relay is pulled, the draw stays the same. I'll pull the ECU, like your suggesting and report back the findings!

Thanks again!
 
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7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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#4
  • Jun 2, 2022
  • #4
Mustang5L5 said:
By "blue" connection, do you mean the blue fusible link?

What year is the car?

So are you saying that pulling the EEC power relay does not cause the draw to drop? If that's the case, unplug the ECU. The wire that feeds the EEC relay also jumps to feed pin 1 on the ECU. It's possible that is the source of the draw.

With the ECU and EEC relay remove, there should be no draw. If there is, then the wire may be shorting somewhere between the starter relay connection block and the pass kick panel area.

Click to expand...
Is the .5 milliamp figure correct? That’s .006 watts.
 

R82148V

Active Member
May 26, 2020
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#5
  • Jun 2, 2022
  • #5
Before changing the Alt, I was drawing 3.25 mA and the batt would drain in a few days.
After changing the Alt, it dropped down to 2.85 mA and the batt does now lasts longer, dropping from 12.73 to 12.70~1 volt over night but not sure if its just the KAM or something including the KAM. This 2.85 draw was isolated coming from the Blue wire off the starter relay.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,178
17,879
224
Massachusetts
Jun 2, 2022
#6
  • Jun 2, 2022
  • #6
7991LXnSHO said:
Is the .5 milliamp figure correct? That’s .006 watts.
Click to expand...

30-50 milliamps is probably more accurate for most of our old, inefficient cars. Newer vehicles are likely lower. A lot of that has to do with what sort of stereo or other accessories you have you have and what current it draws for its KAM.

Edit: my car pulls 30 milliamps at rest, and I can go a month easily without using the battery tender and it will still start.

Double edit: found a Nissan specification that lists a at rest current draw of 22 mA or less is acceptable.
 
Last edited: Jun 2, 2022

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
10 Year Member
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Kearney, NE
Jun 2, 2022
#7
  • Jun 2, 2022
  • #7
Mustang5L5 said:
30-50 milliamps is probably more accurate for our cars. A lot of that has to do with what sort of radio you have and what current it draws for its KAM.

I’d have to look back at the post I made about 3 weeks ago but I think I’m at 35 milliamps at rest. I have a stock radio, the ECU and my homelink electronic mirror using KAM.
Click to expand...
I think at .5 milliamp, I could count the individual electrons go by with a strong enough microscope and new glasses.
Thanks for the verification.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,178
17,879
224
Massachusetts
Jun 2, 2022
#8
  • Jun 2, 2022
  • #8
R82148V said:
Before changing the Alt, I was drawing 3.25 mA and the batt would drain in a few days.
After changing the Alt, it dropped down to 2.85 mA and the batt does now lasts longer, dropping from 12.73 to 12.70~1 volt over night but not sure if its just the KAM or something including the KAM. This 2.85 draw was isolated coming from the Blue wire off the starter relay.
Click to expand...


I’m still puzzled how you are draining your battery on a 3mA draw.

I’m sitting at 30 milliamps at rest and can easily go a month between starts without issue.
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
7,387
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194
Kearney, NE
Jun 2, 2022
#9
  • Jun 2, 2022
  • #9
@Mustang5L5 , me too.
After the CPU is unplugged and tested,
1. I’m really wondering what that new looking battery would do under a load test.

2. I’m also wondering about a periodic draw. Besides wiggling the wire looms and watching the meter, that’s a nightmare thought.
 

R82148V

Active Member
May 26, 2020
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#10
  • Jun 2, 2022
  • #10
right!! it doesn’t make sense. the mA being so low how the heck was is draining the batt at 3.25mA. I thought i was just reading the meter wrong and 3.25 really was 3 hundred 25. hahah So when i pulled the old Alt wire off for the heck of it and some of the mA came down, it really helped some on the draw and i was surprised.

No radio in the car at all.
I just pulled the Ecm harness off and the draw dropped to zero. put it back on and it went back up to 2.85.

Could / would heated 02 sensors have something to do with it?

I can always just wiggle wires to see what happens too.
 

R82148V

Active Member
May 26, 2020
256
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38
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Jun 2, 2022
#11
  • Jun 2, 2022
  • #11
I also have no idea how to load test the batt except bringing it somewhere. when i go to start it, it cranks really well. Not sluggish or anything like that.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,178
17,879
224
Massachusetts
Jun 2, 2022
#12
  • Jun 2, 2022
  • #12
No radio in the car would eliminate a lot of the at rest current draw. As far as I know only the ECU and the radio would have KAM.

That makes sense that you only see current draw on the blue fusible link as it feeds pin 1 on the ECU with constant power. With the ECU disconnected you should have nothing or pretty darn close to it.

But like said, 3 mA is nothing already. That shouldn’t be killing your battery.

Take the battery to Autozone and have it load tested. Or buy this and try it

Limited-time deal: Schumacher BT-100 Battery Load Tester and Voltmeter - 100 Amp Amazon product ASIN B000AMBOI0View: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AMBOI0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dl_0YVGNE8W4XDWJZNV36TQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 
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