Battery problem

Mine did this too for a while. It was the multi-disc changer in the radio. For some reason it would get a mind of its own and want to start changing slots with no cds in it. My friend had a F-150 same problem. You can tell by hooking the charger up to the battery and if you hear it clicking and wont stop thats the problem. If your car is still under warranty you can have a dealership perform a electrical drain test on the system. Only other fix is to put in a voltage stop monitor right off the battery. This is of course thinking the battery is still good and hasnt started to die on you.
 
There have been a couple of threads over the years on this, but I'll repost my experience. I have an 06 manual GT with the shaker 1000. The amps that drive the rear subs do not turn off when the car is turned off. The dealer had the amps rebuilt and now I have no problems. If you want to test the theory pull the fuses for the rear amps and wait a couple of days.
 
Mine did this too for a while. It was the multi-disc changer in the radio. For some reason it would get a mind of its own and want to start changing slots with no cds in it. My friend had a F-150 same problem. You can tell by hooking the charger up to the battery and if you hear it clicking and wont stop thats the problem. If your car is still under warranty you can have a dealership perform a electrical drain test on the system. Only other fix is to put in a voltage stop monitor right off the battery. This is of course thinking the battery is still good and hasnt started to die on you.

Actually, the disc cycling is because the car has power again. It is not the cause of the problem.

The cause is the amplifiers for the Shaker. Also, these cars take quite a bit to crank. So if the battery is at all low, trying to start it will kill it. To stop this from happening, I make sure to turn off my stereo before opening the door. Seems to work.

If you're really bothered, you could always leave it on a battery tender.
 
Actually, the disc cycling is because the car has power again. It is not the cause of the problem.

The cause is the amplifiers for the Shaker. Also, these cars take quite a bit to crank. So if the battery is at all low, trying to start it will kill it. To stop this from happening, I make sure to turn off my stereo before opening the door. Seems to work.

If you're really bothered, you could always leave it on a battery tender.

If the radio suddenly decides to start cycling on its own and wont shut off for about 5 minutes I'd sure say thats a problem.
 
It's because the battery was dead. Once you cut all power to the radio, it has to reinitialize. The cycling through takes about 2 minutes, though it seems like forever. It's very much annoying, but again, not the cause of the problem. The problem is the amplifiers not shutting off. The solution is turning off the radio before opening the doors.
 
The security/motion sensors, are also known to draw power as well. If your plan on having your car sit for more than 5 day periods. Don't activate the security system using your keyfob, but instead lock your door with just the key. Or just manually push the door locks down, as this will only activate the active alarm function, but not the security/motion system itself.
 
I am also having this problem with the dead battery but I only got the shaker500 wihich doesn't have the subwoofer amp, Right??
It first happen when I corraled her for two weeks, I can go about ten days or thats what I let go by before I started her up, knowing this problem would bite me again on Sunday morning.
I have also been told to due the dealership drain test.
I almost always turn off the radio by the switch and do not activate the alarm, when she is locked up I was thinking it was the the Tire pressure monitors, tracking alarm and all the other devices draining it down.
 
I have a 2005 4.0 Mustang. My multi-disc changer in the radio starts changing slots with no cds in it. I have turned it off before opening the door but it still starts changing slots with no cds in it when I power it back up again.

The battery gage indicates that the battery is good (over the halfway mark). The last time it happened the problem disappeared when I replaced the battery. Unfortunately I have to replace the battery every 18 months. I cannot use the battery warranty because the battery tests OK.

The other problem I have is that both sending units go bad (gas gage does not work) if I do not use Chevron gas. I called Ford when it first happened. Ford told me that I either had to use a techron additive or use Chevron gas. They have me a 6 year or 100k miles maintenance contract for free to forget about the whole thing and use Chevron gas. I love the Mustang so I accepted Fords offer and I have been using Chevron gas since 2005 and never had the problem again.