Battery Question....

module is shot....or the puter...imo

Check all of your fuses first (easiest fix) then from there check all the wiring to make sure nothing melted (like the wiring to the alternator or starter, check the wires at your fender mounted soilonoid (i can never spell that right)

Fuseable link would likely blow before the computer would experience any issues.

FarBeyondDriven said:

Check all of your fuses first (easiest fix) then from there check all the wiring to make sure nothing melted (like the wiring to the alternator or starter, check the wires at your fender mounted soilonoid (i can never spell that right)

Click to expand...

at the solenoid starter and alternator area you should be looking for blown fuseable links which is a wire that melts on the inside when shorted,the wire will look normal in most cases you have to look carefully and pull slightly on wires not to dammage connections but to observe a stretch or break telling you that wire is broke or melted (missing) in that area, replace with a new fuseable link purchased at a parts store.

Hickfied said:

Are there any fuses in the engine bay? I know my yota's have fuse boxes in the engine bay too.

Click to expand...

93 and down have no fuse box in the motor bay they contain fuseable links see my previous thread.

Here's a checklist:

Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103 for help


1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems. See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195963.gif for 88-90 year cars .OR see http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195964.gif for 91-93 year cars. See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-95 model cars.

6.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

7.) If that doesn't work, use a jumper cable from the positive lead on the battery direct to the starter post where the big wire from the relay connects. If it cranks then, it is the power wire from the relay gone bad. This will be hard to do, since there isn't much room to do it.

8.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.

From what I have read, the puter should be able to handle a double voltage reverse polarity hook up and survive. JRichker would know better than I if that sounds right.

I agree about checking all the fusible links.

Good luck.

The starter will turn over if you jump the two lugs on the solenoid, even with nothing else connected to the solenoid.

The links can feel mushy in the middle or will get real rubbery. One can try using a meter on each side of a given link to see if voltage is passing (this can be misleading in terms of what kind of amperage can pass if the link only partially burned though).

Good luck.