BBK EGR bung won't seal!

[Zero Signal]

I finally got my car running with a J4J1.CCF and a bunch of tweaks. Man it pulls so hard now, it's crazyness :SNSign: First time I got on it, I was halfway through 3rd quicker than I used to get through 2nd. There's no time to look at the tach anymore so I keep hitting the 6k rev limit I setup, I might need to bump it up some. But it idles steady and lopey with the 110° LSA, it sounds mean!


Anyway, on my list of things to finish on the car is fixing the damn EGR connection at the header. I installed the tube that came with the headers and tightened it as much as I could to the bung. Well the pipe is still lose in there and won't seal against the bung istelf since it's not physically being pressed against it It sounds like a steam engine when I'm idling around the parking lot. My gasket kit came with some small O-ring seals that look like they are supposed to go there. Has anyone else had the same problem with these headers? Should I cut the stock EGR tube down and see if it seals the connection or what? Thanks!

 

[go-stang5.0]

Try some hi-temo hose and some hose clamps. That should seal for sure.

 

[mootang]

cap it off!

 

[final5-0]

Sounds like the fitting is not clamping the pipe to the bung.

If you have a flare tool, try and widen the flare on the pipe by a tiny amount.

Grady

 

[95cobraguy]

ditch the egr bullsh-t and have the egr function turned off in the computer, and be troubled no more.

 

[RIO5.0]

Did you clean the bung threads and anti-seize it good?? sounds like the flare isn't bottoming out....the nut on the header threads way down, almost bottoming out....Are the threads bungered up or such?? remove the tube and stretch it some, if it's the factory crimped one you can put it in a vise and tweak the lenght...

There are no gaskets for that connection in your kit...its a metal to metal fit..

 

[Stangfreak95]

 

[Zero Signal]

You guys are correct, the flare isn't bottoming out. I will need to mess with it. Too bad I don't have a die to clean up the bung threads. It seems like the bung almost get's bigger as it goes down since the threads feel clean when I twist the nut on there.

I might try the anti-seize to help lube it up and see if it goes on further. It's definitely not the flare holding it back, otherwise it would have sealed itself, but I was thinkig of something that can fit between the flare and the nut or the flare and the bung to act as a gasket.

As for the stock tube, it's way too long to be able to tweak it around.

 

[GRGT1994]

Try some hi-temo hose and some hose clamps. That should seal for sure.

I tried hi-temp hose with no luck. I bought the really expensive stuff from a race shop near by, and it popped in no time. There is no way hose can hold when clamped onto the header. It gets WAY too hot.

If anyone has had luck with hose, please post up. Or any other solutions, becuase I have the same problem with no EGR hookup.

 

[RIO5.0]

Remove the nut on the header and douche it with penetrant...wind the nut up and down and it should cut the crud and chase the threads...do that a few times over...

I know when i added a 1/2" spacer i had the same deal....I just put the tube in a vise...measured it for lenght...put Vise-Grips on one end and then wailed on it some...re-measure and kept at it...I gained 1/2 lenght in the tube...that was the stock crimped tube though...Do the reverse to the stock tube if its to long...wail on it to shorten it???

you really need to have those flares almost touching the mating surface on each end first...

 

[mo_dingo]

You guys are correct, the flare isn't bottoming out. I will need to mess with it. Too bad I don't have a die to clean up the bung threads. It seems like the bung almost get's bigger as it goes down since the threads feel clean when I twist the nut on there.

I might try the anti-seize to help lube it up and see if it goes on further. It's definitely not the flare holding it back, otherwise it would have sealed itself, but I was thinkig of something that can fit between the flare and the nut or the flare and the bung to act as a gasket.

As for the stock tube, it's way too long to be able to tweak it around.

I have a double flare kit at work. I think it will work with that size (which is 1/2" right) It will make the lip 2x as big and possibly solve your problem. Just let me know if you want to borrow it.
Scott

 

[Zero Signal]

First thing will be to try and get the nut on the thread with som PB blaster or something. If that doesn't work, I'll resort to the flare tool. I'm wondering how that changes the geometry of the end of the pipe . . . does it increase the flare diameter or does it make it deeper?

Also, the pipe length doesn't matter so much since I have the top of the tub attached to the actual EGR valve with a rubber hose, it's just the nut binding on the threads.

 

[mo_dingo]

First thing will be to try and get the nut on the thread with som PB blaster or something. If that doesn't work, I'll resort to the flare tool. I'm wondering how that changes the geometry of the end of the pipe . . . does it increase the flare diameter or does it make it deeper?

Also, the pipe length doesn't matter so much since I have the top of the tub attached to the actual EGR valve with a rubber hose, it's just the nut binding on the threads.

The diameter stays teh same, but instead of it just flaring out and stopping, it flares out, then gets folded inside the pipe about 1mm or so. It may not make a difference and you will just have to find a shorter nut.
Scott

 

[legalize420]

mine was leaking. i put some permatex on it and no more leak.

 

[FO94302GTRD]

I wouldn't rule out using the stock EGR tube

My BBK EGR tube was too short as well. Don't let anybody tell you BBK has bad customer service, they shipped me a replacement soon after I called them. But guess what, they sent the exact same EGR tube!

My mechanic cut down the stock EGR tube for me and it works just fine. No leaks.

 

[final5-0]

John

With my RPM intake the tube was too short.

I took only the flair off the original tube to get the fittings and used them and some soft coppper tubing to make me a custom tube.

Lasted for about two years and developed a leak.

Made another one.

I then found a fitting that would screw on the bung or egr valve. This fitting now made the original tube just a tiny bit too long. Reflaired both ends and all was good to go.

Its good to see everything is working out well for you

btw ... Have you just recently moved to the J4J1 cal file

Grady

 

[Zero Signal]

Well the car was stock before the mods in the sig, so the first thing I did once I got the laptop in the car was upload the J4J1 with some mods. It had the tweaked stock file before. It runs great even though I'm pulling 13" of vacuum. Part of that might be due to the fact that I have my idle 'hacked' by maxing out the set screw. And maybe alittle through the nice cracked intake plenum

The EGR tube leak is driving me crazy though! Today since I got out of the office early, I'm gonna properly set the idle and redo all my vac lines.

I'm gonna shop around lowes and see what kind of stuff I can find for the EGR. I'll play some MacGuyver on it. I also thought of the Permatex seal, but that will be a last resort.

 

[Zero Signal]

Update:

I ended up fixing it by grinding down one of the nuts on the steel EGR pipe that came with the headers. I used my bench grinder to grind the nut almost halfway down. That did the trick. The problem was two things: the bung threads were clogged with weld spatter and the hole in the nut where pipe goes through was binding on the pipe for some reason. As it is right now, only about 3 threads hold it on but it's plenty.

As for thet TOP of the pipe, I cut a 1.5" length of 3/4" high temp silicon tube, twisted it to the EGR threads then clamped it at the tube flare. No leaks and no melting tube