Bedlining underside, anyone done this?

I am going to have to completely replace the floors in my 68 coupe, After I have succesfully made sure there is absolutely NO rust under the car nextis paint etc, a LOT of the roads around me (im building a driving car not a show queen) have loose gravel etc, that will chip the paint on the underside of the car, so Id like to find the hardiest means of preserving the cars underside. A guy I work with owns a business on the side, he will cheaply coat the underside of the car and wheel wells with an industrial coating like rhino liner. Is this a good or bad idea? it would be very tough and perent rusting in the future (from the bottom anyway) This is a NASTY experience with the rust thats under the car now, I DONT want it to ever start again.
 
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I used 3m body schutz over POR-15. It was a pain to spray the bottom. The liner should protect and cut down on road noise. I'd do it. Maybe put some epoxy on first or POR-15 then put the liner on (wet on wet application).
 
I think h e said we would primer it first, have to talk to him again. He would do it for very cheap, and obviously does a pretty good jod because he has painted a LOT of big trucks (2 and 1/2 ton and bigger) and sandblasted ans redone a LOT of trailers etc. He can do the liner (I may have him line the bed in my 69 F100 to see whats its going to look like first) easily.
 
bed liner material is a good way to prevent rust in the future. just make sure that the surfaces are as clean as you can make them so the liner will stick properly. find out what your friend will charge your for the job, and the check out what duplicolor bed liner costs. the duplicolor stuff has rubber and kevelar blended in the mix to make it tough.
 
I have used SPI www.southernpolyurethanes.com bedliner on my 68 Coupe and 67 Fairlane.

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I will have to find out again what type he uses, He explained everything and I have forgotten. I am working to get my shop in shape to tear everything on the car down now, then im going to replace the floors in the car, the bare shell will head over to his place. He is going to sand blast EVERYTHING clean it, then apply the liner to the bottom of the car and coat everything else in PPG primer. SO at least I have the rust gone and a clean shell to begin building on.
 
And I thought scraping the original undercoating was bad. Wait till some rust repairs need done under there with bedliner sprayed on. Its not for me.

I would consider rolling the underside of the front fenders with bedliner since modern performance tires throw big enough rocks to cause pimples in the sheetmetal.
 
After thorought sandblasting and a good coating there shoud be NO RUST in the future to worry about, thats the point.

$600 to sandblast the complete underside and line it, and blast the trunk and engine bay and add primer. Should be around $1,000 to blast clean and primer the inside of the car. Not a bad deal I think. This guy has been doing this for years and has a well reputed sandblasting company as well as a very positive reputation for paint and body work on large trucks (2 1/2 ton and larger)
 
After thorought sandblasting and a good coating there shoud be NO RUST in the future to worry about, thats the point.

$600 to sandblast the complete underside and line it, and blast the trunk and engine bay and add primer. Should be around $1,000 to blast clean and primer the inside of the car. Not a bad deal I think. This guy has been doing this for years and has a well reputed sandblasting company as well as a very positive reputation for paint and body work on large trucks (2 1/2 ton and larger)

One thing to consider and be careful with - sandblasting can profile and warp sheet metal. Most companies that work on classic cars use other types of media in the blaster to avoid damaging the metal. Now your floors are the toughest area of the car and profiling is not a worry if you are having bed liner put on afterward. Just be cautious about any areas that will only be painted. I had an air cleaner sand blasted - and it really looked bad afterward.

You probably already know this, but one reason I mentioned it is that you wrote that this guy mostly works on large trucks. Blasting 12 or 14 gage sheet metal vs. 1/8 inch plate is not the same!
 
He has also restored and done restoration work on Jeeps. He has a variety of equipment for different tasks, the only thing that he doesnt have yet is a blaster designed for fiderglass. He blasts a large varitey of things also. I guess i should have mentioned that. The trucks are his preference.
 
I would have paid $1000 for that. I HATE sand blasting, and did the inside an bottoms. I probably spent at least $500 (maybe close to $800) on supplies and equipment to get the same done. (sandblaster, paint, different jack stands, mask, etc.) Not to mention all the time.