Before I hurt the stang...someone help (video)

[Synned]

donno if it helps, but the part where the tack is jumpy resembles a problem I had /w the TFI module. After the car warmed up it would sputter (the tach, and the engine rpms) /w part or full throttle around 3-5k rpm... it would drop the rpms back to 3k and climb up.

The 2nd vids look like your rpms are jumping a lot... did the car accelerate a lot? It looks like the transmission slipped or you spun the tires.

Tonight I dis-associated the tach problem with the transmission. The tach even ticks at idle, in neutral as well. I still don't know if its just a tach problem, or a weird misfire.
Now the problem is getting worse. In the upper RPM's, the engine completely breaks up. Its bad. It sounds bad.
So I'm going with some sort of misfire, like everyone has said. I still don't know how the tach is doing as it does, maybe its just a coincidence? Plugs are tomorrow, as well as trying to re-time the car.

I was thinking, I remember a couple of days ago when I had the hood up the dizzy cap wasn't snapped on...not tight at all. I wonder if water could have gotten in there and messed anything up.

 

[HISSIN50]

I'd try pulling codes again too. THe tach thing points to the PIP (which often doesnt crank out a code ). If the tach is related to your issue, repacing plugs, wires and the like won't help.

Good luck bud.

 

[DMAN302]

Not to be rude but I figure if we say enough times..pull the codes...maybe you'll pull the codes. Best way to problem solve is to begin with the easy and obvious things...A...look for anything out of place or obvious damage to components under hood. B...let the car tell you what might be the or one of the problems by retrieving the codes.

 

[90_Red_LX]

Pull the codes and do a plug/wire/cap/fuel filter tuneup. Worst case scenario you have a fresh tuneup. A tuneup is inexpensive and while it may or may not solve your problem, it will at the least help your car. The codes also need to be pulled, as a number of little things could cause that. Other than a tuneup, you shouldn't throw parts at it to see if it helps.

 

[Synned]

Okay guys .. pulled the codes. Wooh...
First time, KOEO
116
636

Second time, KEOR (just jumped it while it was running)
116
438 - not sure about
538 - not sure about

Third time, KEOR (jumped it while off, then started)
116
536
632
I'm sure I saw the 536 and 632 twice, but the first time I did KEOR I might have did it wrong
Im posting this real quick, I have to run RIGHT NOW
Can;t even look up the codes....but

THanks
Joe

 

[Synned]

Okay So I looked up the codes, looks like the only real code I got is
636 - Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) sensor out of range - Transmissions

116 - Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT

I don't think the ECT could be causing what I'm getting, but now I know why I'm getting hard cold starts!
I'll replace that today along with plugs.

What about the trans temp sensor? Could that be because of possible slippage?

 

[HISSIN50]

Did you have a code for hot trans fluid? I think the one you got was for the OD circuit. You might not have cycled the OD button after starting KOER codes.

However, high trans fluid temps can DEFINATELY cause some issues. And the issues snowball once that fluid gets too hot.
You have a cooler, don't ya?

If not, I'd get one on there soon. I'd get a stacked plate unit good for over 20K GVWR. It's an easy install. Even if it doesnt cure your exact issue (I certainly think it will at least help if you're seeing TC shudder), it's just a very good preventative thing to use for your trans.

Good luck bud.

 

[Synned]

I don't want to speak to soon...but I think plugs were in fact the cause of the misfire, and somehow the tach.
I only drove for 5 min, but the jumping tach is GONE!
It also pulls hard now! w000000t!!!!
I can't believe it!
I didn't have enough time to tell if the light cruising miss was gone, but I'm guessing it is.
Man that #4 plug is the WORST!
I had the weirdest problem though...like 3 wires would NOT come off the plugs...I had to yank so hard the metal stayed on the plug and the boot came off, another one the boot ripped off the wire. (I pulled that one by the wire, it was just too damn stuck)

 

[Synned]

Did you have a code for hot trans fluid? I think the one you got was for the OD circuit. You might not have cycled the OD button after starting KOER codes.

However, high trans fluid temps can DEFINATELY cause some issues. And the issues snowball once that fluid gets too hot.
You have a cooler, don't ya?

If not, I'd get one on there soon. I'd get a stacked plate unit good for over 20K GVWR. It's an easy install. Even if it doesnt cure your exact issue (I certainly think it will at least help if you're seeing TC shudder), it's just a very good preventative thing to use for your trans.

Good luck bud.

The hot trans fluid code was 116, and I'm sure I got that one.
I'll look into a cooler, but I don't know if I'll be able to install it, they're not that expensive so I should def. invest in one.

 

[HISSIN50]

116 was your ECT. TOT will be in the 63X's (six hundred thirty something).

If you didnt, put a little tune up grease inside the plug boots - it helps them come off the spark plug easier next time.

That said, I've had wires that came off that badly. It's fun. Not.

Let us know how it continues to run.

 

[Synned]

116 was your ECT. TOT will be in the 63X's (six hundred thirty something).

If you didnt, put a little tune up grease inside the plug boots - it helps them come off the spark plug easier next time.

That said, I've had wires that came off that badly. It's fun. Not.

Let us know how it continues to run.

Woops, you're right, 636 was the code I got. I only got it during KOEO, so I guess it was a stored code from some time ago.
I'm going out now, hope everything stays together!

 

[dragnazz5.0]

you replaced the plug wires correct?

 

[Synned]

you replaced the plug wires correct?

No, the wires are new, I looked at them and they looked good.

 

[86bluecobra]

Woops, you're right, 636 was the code I got. I only got it during KOEO, so I guess it was a stored code from some time ago.
I'm going out now, hope everything stays together!

i believe the computer will only store codes for 8-10 start cycles so that code will not be from that long ago.

 

[Synned]

Well it's fixed!
Now I have another misfire at idle, which I'm sure had to do with my tune-up...I'm not going to worry about it now though. When I get some cash I'll just do the wires.

 

[HISSIN50]

Glad to hear you got it running better Joe. A cylinder balance test should narrow down the cylinder in question real quick.

And I'd still add that trans cooler. The fact that you had a TOT code means it could stand some help. 60 bucks well spent.

Enjoy.

 

[U2SLO450]

sounds kinda like your distributor gears are wearing out................

 

[Synned]

sounds kinda like your distributor gears are wearing out................

I figured it out...was just a weird miss that somehow cause the rpm gauge to tick without the engine shaking like it should.

 

[Synned]

Just a quick question....do autolite 24's come pre-gapped?
I was checking the gap, but I have the weirdest gapper in the world.
To me they were a tiny bit small gapped. But I might be wrong.

 

[HISSIN50]

I've never seen plugs that were gapped correctly. The stang gaps require a larger gapping tool than most of the generic gappers (my little gapper stops at about 0.045"). I think you could use a valve lash feeler if your gapper isnt big enough. Or get the big gapper (if that's the issue). Lash feelers are quite easy to use and something I used to do.

Now all that said, when I tossed the 24's on a couple months ago, the gap was real close to being correct (right out of the box). I run my gap a bit tighter than stock and do recall having to manually close it up.

So, that helped not at all. I must be done here.