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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Bell Housing To Block Bolts (t-45)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Twete
  • Start date Start date Jun 22, 2013

Twete

Member
Aug 29, 2010
61
0
7
Kirkland, WA
Jun 22, 2013
#1
  • Jun 22, 2013
  • #1
Hey guys, its been a while since I've been on this forum but I could use some input! I am in the middle of replacing my clutch and while initially I had arranged all of the bolts from the bell-housing to the block I managed to kick several objects around while removing my pilot bearing, including these bolts... I know 2 of the 7 bolts are longer than the others but I can't recall where they go... I have tried looking up a few schematics from FordParts.com but couldn't quite find what I was looking for. Does anybody happen to know the bolt pattern for a T-45 and where these longer bolts go? Sorry if its a dumb question... I tried surfing the forums before posting but couldn't quite find what I was looking for.

Cheers!
 

bhuff30

Founding Member
Dec 11, 2001
6,037
35
129
Olathe KS
Jun 22, 2013
#2
  • Jun 22, 2013
  • #2
It should be apparent from the bellhousing side. The longer bolts match up with the thicker boss... which as I recall is the top two bolt holes at the top of the bellhousing. Don't worry, it'll be obvious when you start bolting everything together. If you have a bolt with little engagement, put the long one there.
 
C

creektrack

Member
May 17, 2013
156
4
19
Jun 23, 2013
#3
  • Jun 23, 2013
  • #3
2 long bolts go in the top...just changed my TOB last weekend...

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 2
 

Twete

Member
Aug 29, 2010
61
0
7
Kirkland, WA
Jun 23, 2013
#4
  • Jun 23, 2013
  • #4
Thanks for the input guys. I noticed that when placing the long bolts through through each boss around the bellhousing that the shoulder of these bolts is exposed on the other side no matter which position I try, even the top. I'm thinking that these long bolts belong in the positions that have those sleeves between the block and transmission, there are recessed holes on the block to accomodate the sleeves. The deeper holes in those location would allow the longer bolts to thread in without butting up against the extra shoulder length thats exposed. I'll give it a try, if I can ever get the trans back into place...
 
C

creektrack

Member
May 17, 2013
156
4
19
Jun 23, 2013
#5
  • Jun 23, 2013
  • #5
Put a jack under the front of your oil pan and ever so slightly jack up the front of the motor, then tilt the tranny as you're sliding it forward into the motor...it should slide in super easy once you do it that way...

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 2
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Jun 24, 2013
#6
  • Jun 24, 2013
  • #6
Not sure about the cars with T45s because I haven't worked on them personally but on the later GTs with the TR3650 there is a black bracket that mounts to the top of the bellhousing. The bracket holds the O2 sensor wiring out of the way of the exhaust. If you leave this bracket out, the longer top 2 bolts will thread all the way in and stop. There will be space between the bell and the flang of the bolt head.
 

Twete

Member
Aug 29, 2010
61
0
7
Kirkland, WA
Jun 24, 2013
#7
  • Jun 24, 2013
  • #7
Got her back in! Thanks creektrack for the suggestion on raising the motor slightly to improve the angle, My jack didn't quite reach the oil pan so i just pushed up on it myself with one arm while moving the transmission with the other and BOOM, it was in. And Rusty, I think the T-45 has a similar bracket but its for the rear O2 sensors so its towards the rear of the trans as opposed to up against the bell. I ended up placing the longer bolts in the holes with the metal sleeves and everything seemed to work out alright. Thank you for the help guys! This is my first clutch job so its been a bit of a learning curve. Playing with the clutch cable and quadrant is next, got alot of slack after putting in the new clutch.

 
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