belt routing questions, getting rid of some stuff

Hizzle · Jul 7, 2007

Alright, I have an '86 GT 5.0 and I have disconnected the A/C and smog and am putting in a manual rack. So I am hoping to pull the A/C compressor, air pump, and P/S pump off, however, it looks like it will cause some clearance issues if I want to keep everything turning the right way. The belt is going to run into itself in a few places. I may just have to go with the delete kits for the air pump and A/C, was just trying to avoid having extra stuff under there. I was bored and trying to figure it out, if anyone has done it, let me know how otherwise I will just get the delete kits coming through Jeg's.

Mustang5L5 · Jul 7, 2007

Do a search on reversing the tensioner. I don't have any links on it but i know it has been discussed either on here or on corral.net

If you reverse the tensioner, it will pull the belt up. Then you can route the belt as follows

Hizzle · Jul 7, 2007

If I run it like that, hopefully it will put enough tension on the waterpump. I may wait until I put on the electric fan to do that. Thanks

Mustang5L5 · Jul 7, 2007

Well my drawing isn't exactly to scale, so you'll have to see how much wrap it gives.

Another option is this

http://www.marchperf.com/pg30.html

Hizzle · Jul 7, 2007

Thanks. I found a couple of posts that were kind of what I was looking for. Most were still leaving one of the items in, still searching. I think it will have a lot less chance of slipping after I take the fan off and run electric, easier to spin

Illuminator · Feb 24, 2013

See what you guys think of this route...some probably have done it and I just wonder if it works over the long haul? Working now but it looks like I need an idler pulley with outer ribs to keep the belt from wandering off the front.

Sorry for all the bad pix...car has been sitting for 2 years and using crappy cell.

MikeH686 · Feb 25, 2013

Get an adjustable alternator bracket and you can ditch the tensioner thats what im doing i only have the water pump alternator and crank

Illuminator · Feb 25, 2013

Yeah eventually I wouldn't mind one of those full dress March setups, but need a few other things more importantly in the meanwhile. I just don't like tossing a belt when not close to home, or dead of summer at 115 deg's. If I could locate some accurate drawings or geometry I could always just make my own. I model aircraft parts and program cnc's at work, so car parts would be a breeze.

HotFox · Feb 25, 2013

If u look at my build thread. I think I may have a picture showing exactly as u are thinking, have not had issues with water pump pulley.

stykthyn · Feb 25, 2013

90lxcoupe · Feb 25, 2013

Hizzle said:
If I run it like that, hopefully it will put enough tension on the waterpump. I may wait until I put on the electric fan to do that. Thanks

I ran that setup, without the tensioner reversed, and it worked very well. I did switch to a standard rotation WP just cause i wasnt a fan of how it looked and i had the pump off at the time.

To run the belt that way, i bought the propper length belt, then removed the bolt enough so that the locating pin comes out of the stock bracket, then put a wrench on the tensioner nut, and put pressure on the belt while tightening the tensioner bolt. It was a little rednecky, but it worked for a couple years like that, and the belt contact wasnt an issue. Works better than a march setup with the threaded rod IMO.

The new setup is a 85 crown vic water pump, and it looks much cleaner with the tensioner going the right direction.

madspeed · Feb 25, 2013

what tensioner, pic prior to putting on belt

crank, reverse rotation wp, alt

jrichker · Feb 25, 2013

Hizzle said:
Alright, I have an '86 GT 5.0 and I have disconnected the A/C and smog and am putting in a manual rack. So I am hoping to pull the A/C compressor, air pump, and P/S pump off, however, it looks like it will cause some clearance issues if I want to keep everything turning the right way. The belt is going to run into itself in a few places. I may just have to go with the delete kits for the air pump and A/C, was just trying to avoid having extra stuff under there. I was bored and trying to figure it out, if anyone has done it, let me know how otherwise I will just get the delete kits coming through Jeg's.

I applaud your service for our country, keep you head down and stay safe.

I would advise you to learn what the effects of removing the smog equipment before you spend money on something with little return. Know what codes you will trip with the absence of working smog gear and associated sensors. Also know that the computer has a limp mode that it resorts to when it can't figure out what the sensor data is trying to tell it. That limp mode results in reduced power and economy, which hurts your pride and your pocketbook.

Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by Charles Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $25-$40 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select books and then select search. Use the ISBN number (without dashes or spaces) to do a search. Try searching using M-1832-Z1 instead of the ISBN number if you don’t get any positive results. You may only be able to find a used one, since the book is as old as the cars it covers. Or you order it from your Ford dealer as SVO part no. M-1832-Z1.

Use the ISBN number and your local library can get you a loaner copy for free. Only thing is you are limited to keeping the book for two weeks. It is very good, and I found it to be very helpful.

madspeed · Feb 25, 2013

thats good advice right there

mob · Feb 25, 2013

I was going to say use a reverse older style water pump (or reverse from our cars idk which way it spins). They work fine you just need to take the backing plate off a 5.0 HO water pump and swap it over to the older style pump.

Illuminator · Feb 26, 2013

Mine didn't have smog pump when I got it. Previous owner raced the car, and messed more than a few things up. It has a smog delete pulley maybe the pix didn't show completely. I only removed the a/c as it was leaking and condenser had a gash in it. Still has the smog can and vacuum switch's, beats me if they work or not. Not sure if it's worth it to replace all that stuff. The CE light goes off eventually, altho I have another issue in the fuel supply wiring... too much stuff to fix. I only keep the car because it's fairly quick even with all the issues.

Dino Dino Bambino · Feb 26, 2013

Hizzle said:
Alright, I have an '86 GT 5.0 and I have disconnected the A/C and smog and am putting in a manual rack. So I am hoping to pull the A/C compressor, air pump, and P/S pump off, however, it looks like it will cause some clearance issues if I want to keep everything turning the right way. The belt is going to run into itself in a few places. I may just have to go with the delete kits for the air pump and A/C, was just trying to avoid having extra stuff under there. I was bored and trying to figure it out, if anyone has done it, let me know how otherwise I will just get the delete kits coming through Jeg's.

Here's the best solution for you:

madspeed · Feb 26, 2013

blah, if youre gonna do all that, why not lose the tensioner

90lxcoupe · Feb 26, 2013

madspeed said:
blah, if youre gonna do all that, why not lose the tensioner

Because the factory tensioner does a better job than any hokey as.s threaded rod and heim joint ever will.

Illuminator · Feb 26, 2013

Currently I am losing the tensioner.....and the belt as well. Waiting on a new ribbed pully, and if that don't work gona re-think moving the PS pump up like everyone else. Probably need a different thread, but are the late model 5.o's the same as the old windsor blocks as far as the front of the engine? For say changing water pump or cams?

belt routing questions, getting rid of some stuff

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Mine is only two inches though.

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I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.

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