Bent Rims

[lonestar1]

Gentlemen, noticed some vibration in steering wheel when hitting the brakes. Thought it was the rotors, but when I had the tires rotated and balanced the Discount tire guys noticed the 2 right side rims were wobbling on the balancer. Don't remember hitting anything so it had to be wifes doing.

No evidence of hitting a curb or any scrape or scratches on the rims. Is it possible to have them trued? Would it be cost effective? I live in the Houston area and can't find any reference to wheel repair except for finish.

If they can't be repaired, any ideas where I can get the GT 17" stock rims for a 2002 used?

Thanks, Lonestar1

 

[Noobz347]

Seriously... Go to one of the MANY after market wheel outlets and by yourself a set of deep dish replicas for the back and use the two good rims you have for the front.

They came with the Bullitt wheels, right?

 

[Maxpowers]

There's no way if knowing if they can be fixed without seeing them. A tire shop should have been able to tell you.

Craigslist is the best place to find used wheels.

 

[40oz]

I don't know that you can bend an OEM cast aluminum wheel the way a steel wheel can be. Take a look at the wheel yourself. If it's bent it will be obvious.

I had a tire shop tell me my factory wheel was bent when I asked them to balance a set. The problem was simply a worn tire. I replaced the tires and the wheel miraculously "unbent" itself :/

I'd get your rotors turned or replaced before worrying about bent wheels. The symptoms you describe are exactly what a warped rotor will do. And take a look at your tires - that was my problem.

And if you really need a wheel, cheap used ones are easy to find on every for sale forum - craigs list, ebay, here, all over. I have a set of four Bullitts in my basement right now that you could have for ~$200/bo if you were local. And I know I'm not the only one.

Good luck.

 

[lonestar1]

I could see both rims on the balancer and they weren't true. The rims are the 17 inch 5 spoke gray that look like the Crager mags of old. Just put a whole can of Seafoam through PCV inlet. Got pulled over by Sheriff deputy to see if I was alright with so much smoke.

Lonestar 1

 

[txredgt]

I could see both rims on the balancer and they weren't true. The rims are the 17 inch 5 spoke gray that look like the Crager mags of old. Just put a whole can of Seafoam through PCV inlet. Got pulled over by Sheriff deputy to see if I was alright with so much smoke.

Lonestar 1

These are the wheels you have:

Anthracite Bullitt Mustang Wheel 94-04 (17x8) at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping

These are what you want:

Anthracite Deep Dish Bullitt Mustang Wheel 94-04 (17x10.5) at AmericanMuscle - Free Shipping!

and 2 new tires for the rear.

 

[Lugnuts]

I am not sold on the bent rims.. If the rims are bent you should experience the vibration all the time - not just when the brake is applied. It may be more noticeable at certain speeds but should not only act up when brake is applied. There could be grime, debris or damage to the center hole that the wheel is mounted on the balancing machine by which would appear to be a bent wheel.
I have had bent steel wheels in the past on a truck and if they are not bad they can be balanced out.

 

[evolucion311]

+1 for Craigslist. I was able to only get $275 for my 4 original Bullitt wheels w/ 50% tread tires after 3 weeks of advertising.

You'll be able to find a deal there, especially if someone is in a distress situation and needs cash quick.

 

[lonestar1]

I'm convinced now that problem is rotor and I'm ordering new drilled ones. I've run at every speed up to 135 and there is no vibration until I hit the brakes. Must have been a timing problem getting the tires rotated when the vibration started. I always watch when getting rotations so I can check brakes/shocks etc. and make sure they torque all the nuts. Definetely had both right side tires/rims not true on the balancer. Figured that was the problem.

Getting drilled rotors only, no grooves. Figure there is a limit on how much surface area is lost to the grooves when the holes dissipate the heat and gas. I think it looks better too. Also the grooves will trim the pads at a faster rate. Old racing trick to keep really hot pad resins skimmed off. May not be true with newer equipment, but that was original use. Don't do that anymore and it would take a lot of green to make the mustang track competitive.
Lonestar 1

Former: Class II Sedan, SCCA '66 Barracuda "S"

 

[twogts4us]

Just put a whole can of Seafoam through PCV inlet.
Lonestar 1

OMG - why do people do this? Does the potential benefit outweigh the risk of dumping this stuff into your engine and creating a gigantic smoke show?

I am not sold on the bent rims.. If the rims are bent you should experience the vibration all the time - not just when the brake is applied. It may be more noticeable at certain speeds but should not only act up when brake is applied.

AGREED!

I'm convinced now that problem is rotor and I'm ordering new drilled ones.

Why drilled? Personally I prefer slotted as I think they are less likely to crack. But for a pure street car, those slots and holes are for looks - unless you are really beating on the car, you'll not get the rotors hot enough to appreciate any benefit from drilled and/or slotted. For street cars, 99% of the time, large VENTED rotors with multiple piston calipers (and quality pads) will give you all the braking that you need.

Chris

 

[twogts4us]

I've run at every speed up to 135

On a track, correct?

 

[Lugnuts]

Just for clarification on the rotors. I have drilled and slotted rotors because I got an unbeatable deal on them - they were in a box in the trunk of the car when I bought it! If I had not gotten such a deal, I would have only gotten slotted. The cross drilled holes have a tendency to promote cracking after repeated heat cycles - especially if you heat them up good and run through a good sized water puddle. The slots do not cause cracking. Under braking the surface of the pads heat up and under high loads can cause the material to de-gas. This can create an air cushion between the pad and the rotor which is what causes brake fade. Both drilling and slotting resolve this but drilling also aids in cooling the rotor itself by both giving more surface area and allowing air to pass through.

For a street only driven car, standard rotors are fine - you will get the best return on investment changing out the rubber brake lines to the calipers with a quality stainless braided, teflon lined hose. These will not swell with brake pressure and heat which will give you a firmer pedal and greater brake clamping force.

 

[twogts4us]

Agreed Lugnuts, good post - and 'if it's free, it's for me'!!!

 

[lonestar1]

I like the looks of the drilled and I occasionally can get them hot enough to really fade. Also by the time I get the rotors turned (if they can be) and buy premium pads, it's close to what aftermarket rotors cost.

It's easy to find a deserted mile of road in east Texas to blow some carbon and Seafoam out. Can't help it, I'm a fanatic about tuning and having a clean engine. Amsoil in every part that will take synthetic and oil flushed at nearly every change. I knew when I screwed up on the track it was from driver error and not maintenance.

Any of you guys remember setting the dwell on a dual point distributor? Dwell both points at one number and together they would be at another number. Then get the timing light to set it up about 10 degrees for the track. Then recheck the dwell and hope it was still on. And oh yea, adjusting solid lifters. Don't miss doing any of those.

Lonestar1