best 1250 intake gasket prep method (rtv/sealant)?

Last5.0 · Sep 17, 2004

I've never used anything on them, just in the corners of the front and back pieces of the lifter valley, where the gaskets meet

1105 · Sep 17, 2004

The CORRECT way to do it, cork or rubber, is to put some sort of adhesive, I use weather strip adhesive, on the bottom side, set it on the block and let it dry. Then only put RTV in the corners where thoes pieces meet up with the intake gaskets and you're done.

About 90% of the people on here will say just put RTV all the way across the piece but that is wrong. The RTV should only be put in the corners. If its installed properly, you wont have any leaks. The one time I installed the gaskets with RTV everywhere I had a bad oil leak. Now that I'm doing it the proper way, I've had the intake off a few times and back on with no leaks at all.

btw... this isn't the best but more like the most argued topic about intake gaskets Search for any thread about the same thing and you'll find people arguing about which way is the best.

wytstang · Sep 17, 2004

I used a little on each end to keep the gasket from moving and that's it.

rockin_rick · Sep 17, 2004

What is the best method for prepping a Fel Pro 1250 intake gasket? Since it is a print-o-seal type, does it need any extra RTV/sealant? Should I use RTV/sealant? The 1250's instructions say to use adhesive on the head side, and stick it onto the head without anything on the intake side. I've seen others suggest using RTV around the water ports on both sides, but that wasn't specifically for the 1250.

Essentially, what is the best, tried-and-true method to ensure a leak free seal?

Rick

94GTLaserRC · Sep 17, 2004

WHen Joe and Roger came by and did mine, The gooped the RTV all over (black one in the caulking tube). The main thing is to make sure it is dried.

Havent had any leaks from there, and I think it's been about 9 months.

Thanks
RC

5spd GT · Sep 17, 2004

1105 said:
The CORRECT way to do it, cork or rubber, is to put some sort of adhesive, I use weather strip adhesive, on the bottom side, set it on the block and let it dry. Then only put RTV in the corners where thoes pieces meet up with the intake gaskets and you're done.

About 90% of the people on here will say just put RTV all the way across the piece but that is wrong. The RTV should only be put in the corners. If its installed properly, you wont have any leaks. The one time I installed the gaskets with RTV everywhere I had a bad oil leak. Now that I'm doing it the proper way, I've had the intake off a few times and back on with no leaks at all.

btw... this isn't the best but more like the most argued topic about intake gaskets Search for any thread about the same thing and you'll find people arguing about which way is the best.

So are you impling not to put any rtv (or end-seal gaskets) along the block ends except in the corner...the "metal to metal" will not seal...or did I read that wrong...

Here is what I did and seems to be very successful and was showed this by a buddy of mine that builds race cars...

I put a couple dabs under the 1250 gasket and position the gasket over the ports as perfect as possible and then allow those dabs under the gasket to dry...so it will not move as I lower the intake on...

I put a nice thick bead of high temp silicone on the block ends and let it sit for about 10 minutes to "film" over and then set the lower intake on...you can use long studs installed into your heads to help you lower the intake down and then remove the studs after it is seated...

I slightly torqued the intake down after the "filming" and laying it down just to get a little "squish" on the silicone and let it sit overnight...

The next day I did the final torqueing procedure with the torque numbers (somepeople go by feel) and that was that...absolutely no leaks of any kind...

On mine I had to trim a little bit of the coolant passages on the gasket because it was protruding into the passageway...

Good Luck

1105 · Sep 17, 2004

5spd GT said:
So are you impling not to put any rtv (or end-seal gaskets) along the block ends except in the corner...the "metal to metal" will not seal...or did I read that wrong...

The CORRECT way to do it, cork or rubber, is to put some sort of adhesive, I use weather strip adhesive, on the bottom side of the rubber/cork pieces, set it on the block and let it dry.

fixed it... I ment to say on the bottom of the rubber or cork pieces, just left it out

94GTLaserRC · Sep 17, 2004

1105 said:
The CORRECT way to do it, cork or rubber, is to put some sort of adhesive, I use weather strip adhesive, on the bottom side of the rubber/cork pieces, set it on the block and let it dry.

fixed it... I ment to say on the bottom of the rubber or cork pieces, just left it out

Why is that way CORRECT, and ALL the others are INCORRECT??

blksn955.o · Sep 17, 2004

I have done 3-4 intake swaps now and used the same rubber front and rear piece 3 times only adding RTV to the bottom on the 3rd install. I used the 1250 gasket 2 times (not re-used, new) and I realy, realy like them, I just put some RTV on the gasket head side to hold it in place and installed like that with no problems. I did not use the 1250 this time (may redo it later) but used a cobra gasket set that I matched up and used alot of RTV, much more a PITA and BIG mess. Go 1250 if you can.

Grn92LX · Sep 17, 2004

94GTLaserRC said:
Why is that way CORRECT, and ALL the others are INCORRECT??

He's probably just biased in his way and his way only. I've done both (cork and silicone) and never had a problem either way. Proper tq sequence and going over the sequence many times probably has a huge effect on that. With that said, I prefer the silicone route better. Nice thick bead on the block ends, thin bead around the coolant ports (both sides of gasket), cut the gasket in the coolant ports where the 1250 gasket protrudes in the port and use some studs to aid in lining the lower up when putting it on. This is the 'correct' way to do it as well

1105 · Sep 17, 2004

94GTLaserRC said:
Why is that way CORRECT, and ALL the others are INCORRECT??

Someone should call edelbrock or felpro or someone in the business and ask them if you should put RTV all the way across thoes pieces or just in the corner. All of the mechanics I have talked to said that not putting RTV on is the propper way. I'm not saying if you do put it on its wrong, but if both surfaces are flat (the intake and the gasket) all of the RTV will get pushed out from it anyways.

Do it whatever way you want to, I've done both, the RTV one leaked on me, and the one I didnt use a whole tube of RTV on was fine everytime I did it. Wheres Joes in this thread? I know he'll back me up

RIO5.0 · Sep 18, 2004

If your running Fel-Pro gaskets there should be a small slip of White paper with "their" instructions on installation...I believe they recommend only RTV on the ends, as been stated...
I follow what they say with the only exception being I smear a light coat of RTV on the "head" side around the big water ports. Using (4) alignment studs is also recommended...If your running Fel- Pro head gaskets the interlocking tabs tie the gaskets together anyway...

A leaky intake???? whats that??? My method is correct....

94GTLaserRC · Sep 18, 2004

1105 said:
Someone should call edelbrock or felpro or someone in the business and ask them if you should put RTV all the way across thoes pieces or just in the corner. All of the mechanics I have talked to said that not putting RTV on is the propper way. I'm not saying if you do put it on its wrong, but if both surfaces are flat (the intake and the gasket) all of the RTV will get pushed out from it anyways. ...... Wheres Joes in this thread? I know he'll back me up.

He may back you up, but Im telling you he and Roger put it ALL over on mine and it's been fine. I think Grn92 hit the nail on the head though, when he said "TQ SEQUENCE". When they did mine, they were REALLY care on the sequence and mnf specs on torquing those things down...AGAIN, the other important factor is proper drying before firing it up.

RC

DJHA90 · Sep 18, 2004

Edelbrock instructions say to scrap the end pieces and use RTV...

1105 · Sep 18, 2004

Wheres Last5.0 been? Do it whatever way you want to. I had a leaky gasket when I used RTV and its been fine when I only put it in the 4 corners but everyone else for some reason seems to be the other way I'm still sticking by my method because its worked for me in the past when I had to take my intake back off because it was leaking from using RTV, and when I installed my heads, and when I had to change a head gasket.

If you feel more comfortable using RTV then by all means go for it. I never used a torque wrench on my lower intake, I just did the correct torque pattern and I've never had a problem.

5spd GT · Sep 18, 2004

5spd GT said:
So are you impling not to put any rtv (or end-seal gaskets) along the block ends except in the corner...the "metal to metal" will not seal...or did I read that wrong...

Here is what I did and seems to be very successful and was showed this by a buddy of mine that builds race cars...

I put a couple dabs under the 1250 gasket and position the gasket over the ports as perfect as possible and then allow those dabs under the gasket to dry...so it will not move as I lower the intake on...

I put a nice thick bead of high temp silicone on the block ends and let it sit for about 10 minutes to "film" over and then set the lower intake on...you can use long studs installed into your heads to help you lower the intake down and then remove the studs after it is seated...

I slightly torqued the intake down after the "filming" and laying it down just to get a little "squish" on the silicone and let it sit overnight...

The next day I did the final torqueing procedure with the torque numbers (somepeople go by feel) and that was that...absolutely no leaks of any kind...

On mine I had to trim a little bit of the coolant passages on the gasket because it was protruding into the passageway...

Good Luck

I think I was the first to mention the torque sequence and proper drying time (overnight)...

rockin_rick · Sep 18, 2004

I'm specifically wondering about the intake to head gasket. The Fel-Pro instructions say to use a adhesive on the head side of the gasket and stick the gasket to the head. Then snug down the intake (without anything on the ends yet) and allow it to dry. Then pull off the intake and trim the water ports. Then put in the ends, and tighten it down. They don't mention anything about adhesive, sealant, or RTV on the intake side. Anyone use Permatex Ultra Copper Spray-a-gasket?

Rick

94GTLaserRC · Sep 18, 2004

1105 said:
......I never used a torque wrench on my lower intake, .....

Zach, who is saying that your way is wrong? If it works, I myself believe you. All Im saying is that you said your way is the CORRECT way, but that should not imply the ONLY way.

No matter what you do with RTV or not, I would definitely NOT put the bolts back on without a tq wrench.

RC

5spd GT · Sep 18, 2004

No torque wrench here... ...but recommended...

1105 · Sep 18, 2004

I said its the correct way because the mechanics I've talked to, including my dad whos been one for 20+ years, all say not to put RTV all the way across it. They went to school for these things so something has to be right

I didnt use a torque wrench because the one we have sucks and is inacuriate

best 1250 intake gasket prep method (rtv/sealant)?

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