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Best Cam For High Compression 306

  • Thread starter Thread starter jdemolet
  • Start date Start date Jun 8, 2015
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jdemolet

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#1
  • Jun 8, 2015
  • #1
im building a 11.2:1 compression 306. wiseco flat top pistons with two valve reliefs eagle sir I beam rods eagle crank. 58cc heads springs good to 550 lift.1.94 intake valve 1.54 exhaust.1.6 roller rockers .050 compressed thickness head gaskets. its going to be a daily driver motor on 93 pump gas. my goal is to hit 310-320 at the wheels through the aod. I don't want a cam that is overly aggressive but I want the lope noticeable and want a cam that wont be to much lift that I have to worry about ptv clearance or having to put a converter on it to have it work properly since the aod will be swapped for a tko down the road
 

rbohm

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#2
  • Jun 8, 2015
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first off you want to select a cam that works in the rpm range you are going to run the engine in about 80% of the time. for a daily driver that means the 1000-5000 rpm range. you can fudge that some depending on the rest of the combination. for your engine, especially running 11:1 compression and i do hope you are running aluminum heads, i would go for something like a comp cams 270 extreme energy cam, or perhaps this cam is more to your liking;

31-601-5 - Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft
 
J

jdemolet

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#3
  • Jun 8, 2015
  • #3
yes I will be running aluminum heads. operation range of 1200-5300
 

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...
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#4
  • Jun 8, 2015
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I'm going to use the obligatory "get a custom cam" comment. But if using an ots grind the comp 268 or 270 would be good. Even a tfs 1
 
J

jdemolet

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#5
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would I hit 310 at the wheels with this setup with the comp xe270hr
 

RangerJoe

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#6
  • Jun 8, 2015
  • #6
The cam is very important, but I think for tour goals you are going to need a good set of heads. What kind are you running?

Joe
 

A5literMan

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#7
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Your not going to hit 310 through a stock aod with any cam because your heads are to small and are not set up to flow enough air. The cam isn't going to be the limiting reason. Also the auto eats about an extra 8-10% of your flywheel hp compared to a manual.
 
J

jdemolet

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#8
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the heads are flotek 180cc that have been milled 2 thousandths a 5 angle valve job with .new 550 lift springs. would I hit 300 at the wheels or is that pushing it. I might even go with a scat 331 stroker
 

A5literMan

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#9
  • Jun 8, 2015
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What's the spring rate? There is more to the valve spring than just max lift numbers. Some cannot handle the ramp rates of a roller cam compared to a hydraulic lifter ie. Also are you just looking for a dyno "number" or just want a nice hard running street motor? There needs to be a complete plan of what you want to do.
 
J

jdemolet

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#10
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its the Anderson high rev spring. im looking for 300-310 rwhp 300+ rwtq and a hard hitting street motor is what I want
 

A5literMan

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#11
  • Jun 8, 2015
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Easiest way is to add cubic inches. With a really mild cam a 331 will make 300+ to the wheels. With a 306/those heads/aod you're going to be hard pressed to get there. You could see high 280-290's(I'm just not familiar enough with Flotech). I know with AFR or TFS heads and a tfs 1 cam (or equivalent) with the proper intake,MAF,exhaust, etc most autos make around 280-290.
 
J

jdemolet

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#12
  • Jun 8, 2015
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well if I did 10.5:1 compression iron gt40 milled .004 with 5 angle valve job could I get 300 on 93
 

RangerJoe

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#13
  • Jun 8, 2015
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For 3 years I ran a 10.15:1 331 with ported gt40's and accompanying valve job. I used a n41 cam and shorty headers, all thru a t5. Car weighed 3390 with me in it the day it trapped 108.25 in the 1/4. That came out to 305rwhp using online calculators. Probably plan on 10-15 less with an auto.

Joe
 

Chuckman

GTFO you fat, heavy bastard
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#14
  • Jun 8, 2015
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rbohm said:
first off you want to select a cam that works in the rpm range you are going to run the engine in about 80% of the time. for a daily driver that means the 1000-5000 rpm range. you can fudge that some depending on the rest of the combination. for your engine, especially running 11:1 compression and i do hope you are running aluminum heads, i would go for something like a comp cams 270 extreme energy cam, or perhaps this cam is more to your liking;

31-601-5 - Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft
Click to expand...
you do realize thats a flat-tappet cam and not a roller right?

300rwhp i would say wouldnt be impossible, but it will be hard to get with the gt40 rip-offs. people HAVE done it with iron gt40/gt40p's though, just takes the right setup (i.e. custom cam, matched intake, roller rockers, and one hell of a tuneup).

imo if you want to use what you've got and use an ots cam, stick with something along the lines of a comp xe270hr, or tfs stage 1. if you can upgrade the springs to handle them, an xe274hr or tfs stage 2. but even those last 2 might be too much for those heads.
 
J

jdemolet

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#15
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heads have been worked through milled .004 Anderson high rev springs and some imperfections in the casting cleaned up
 

Grabbin' Asphalt

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#16
  • Jun 8, 2015
  • #16
I have a similar gt40 set up, my trq numbers make this car fun, very easy daily driver, my E cam is holding me back however, ex264hr or ex270hr would be the Top Limit I would risk keeping it a daily driver. But i seen the ex264hr on someones dyno on another forum(with no scrolling pop up adds) around 305-315rwhp.
If it were me...
1. Gt40 xe264hr with 302/306 -ported, milled worked etc
2. 331 with xe270hr or xe272hr similar grinds etc
obviously if you have the funds for better heads, but heads can always be added later if the 331 funds are tight. Daily Driver is a key word here.
 

rbohm

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#17
  • Jun 8, 2015
  • #17
Chuckman said:
you do realize thats a flat-tappet cam and not a roller right?
Click to expand...

whats your point? flat tappet cams work just fine in street engines.
 

Chuckman

GTFO you fat, heavy bastard
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#18
  • Jun 9, 2015
  • #18
rbohm said:
whats your point? flat tappet cams work just fine in street engines.
Click to expand...
Yeah, except 5.0ho's (like the op's and every other fox since 1982) are all factory rollers.
 

A5literMan

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#19
  • Jun 9, 2015
  • #19
What parts do you already have? Just the Flotech heads? Do you have the wiseco pistons/306 shortblock? Or is this just a purposed build? If you already have this long block combo I'd just add an ots cam/proper induction system and run it.

If you're just planning around those heads and haven't built the shortblock yet I'd build a 331. Again I'd probably use an ots and good intake etc. and run it.

If you can start over I'd buy some better heads and build a 331/347 with a custom grind. You could build a daily driver with an easy 325-350 rwhp/tq. Through the aod.
 
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J

jdemolet

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#20
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I have the block and the heads already worked over. I don't have the any of the internals
 
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