Best clutch? Opinions wanted!

what kind of transmission, a spec stage 5 will grab so hard the tranny will go out soon.

give paul(killercanary) a PM or maybe he will see this, i know the clutch he got he really liked.

Yep, the clutch Paul uses and/or the clutch I use will be perfect for you. We both use the same pressure plate which is a blueprinted/modified ford motorsport heavy duty unit. Its modified to handle high rpm's and a butt load of power. I use a mcleod dual friction disk. This kit costs $289 from nitrostangracing.com

By the way, what did you run @ the track?

Another selection is a modified King Cobra clutch from Anderson Ford Motorsport.

Troy

My Hays DF feels a hell of a lot better than my king cobra did.

I thought Paul had an auto?

Zero Signal said:

I thought Paul had an auto?

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No Way Jose

He be a Stick Man

Grady

Zero Signal said:

I thought Paul had an auto?

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WHAT??? No way! LOL! Though if I had an auto I probably would have been enjoying my car this summer instead of seeing it sitting collecting dust in my parents garage due to my mishap when I went from 3rd to 2nd at 80mph at the track and took out all of the exhaust valves!


Squeeze- I used to always run the FMS HD clutch in my car. The pedal effort was stiff, but I grew to like it. It worked perfectly for a while when I was running on drag radials as it was easily slipped on the launch, and it was good on the street since it wasn't grabby at all. The problem showed up when I started running ET streets. On the launch the clucth couldn't hold and will slip violently in 1st gear which prevented me for getting any better 60's than high 1.6's. I wanted a clutch that would:
1. Be completely streetable since my car is 99% a street car. I wanted a clutch that would not chatter, that didn't engage like an on-off switch, and that didn't have an extremely heavy pedal effort.
2. It had to be a clutch that could be slipped for when I ran on drag radials. I had many friends that switched to to running the spec stuff and all of them had troubles with their 60's after the switch because it was virtually imposslbe for them to slip the clutch out on the launch and the tires would get hit too hard and spin. I had driven a few of those cars and the clutch was too much like an on/off switch. Some of this is due to the lack of a monsels spring between the friction material and the metal part of the disc. The pedal effort was nice but that was the only nice thing about them IMO.
3. It needed to hold a HARD launch on ET streets. Due to my weight opted for a clutch with more holding power than I needed for the power levels I'm at.

I ended up going with a Pro Motion "Kustom" clutch from Walt at http://www.promotionpowertrain.com The clutch I run is the same Walt puts in many of his real street customer's cars and it will hold upwards of 700HP in a low-mid 3000lb car. I couldn't be happier with this clutch as it delivered on everything I wanted and then some. The pedal effort is slightly less than my old FMS HD setup too. I also run his quick release quadrant which has a steeper ramp rate than most other quadrants which makes for quicker clutch engagements and thus quicker shifts. It also provided .050" more air gap which is beneficial in high rpm shifts. The steeper ramp rate makes it a tiny bit harder to slip just because very small movements with the clutch pedal more the clutch more.

Killercanary said:

WHAT??? No way! LOL! Though if I had an auto I probably would have been enjoying my car this summer instead of seeing it sitting collecting dust in my parents garage due to my mishap when I went from 3rd to 2nd at 80mph at the track and took out all of the exhaust valves!

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Hey Paul

No need to feel like you can't hold your head high or anything like that just cause you had that little snaffoo

Nothing like Rippin down the ole 1320 and hittin em all clean

Would you not agree?

Anybody can Stab & Steer

Grady