Best look with C's

Black Stampede

Founding Member

Sep 3, 2002

1,811

2

39

Grand Rapids, MI

Apr 28, 2004

#1

• Apr 28, 2004

• #1

I'm going to be getting C springs soon and was wondering what you guys thought would be the best look with them. I'm definitely taking the front top isolaters out but are there rear top isolaters that can be taken out?
If not, should I just plan on cutting a half coil out of the rears because I have heard that the general consensus is that C's on SN95s dont lower the back enough.
What do you guys think?
BTW, I would like around a 1.5 inch drop when im finished.

 

Venom351R

Founding Member

Apr 27, 2002

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MAINE

Apr 28, 2004

#2

• Apr 28, 2004

• #2

first of all dont Cut any Springs regardless of its aftermarket or stock. I'll tell you what I'll take some pics of mine today. I Installed C Springs on mine last summer. At first it did not drop alot but I noticed that after it sat all winter in storage that the car droped alot more then it was when it was put up. I'll take pics of the front and rear and you make the decison on if you want C Springs or not.

 

Black Stampede

Founding Member

Sep 3, 2002

1,811

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39

Grand Rapids, MI

Apr 28, 2004

#3

• Apr 28, 2004

• #3

Why is it a bad idea to take just a 1/2 coil of the back if it sits too high? Almost every SN95 owner with C springs say that the back sits too high without doing that.
Did you take the front to isolator out? I think its a must because otherwise its not going to sit near low enough to where I would like it too.

BTW, I already ordered them so I just gotta figure out what to do.

 

Numbles

Active Member

Dec 10, 2003

998

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36

Chicago, IL

Apr 28, 2004

#4

• Apr 28, 2004

• #4

I dont think your going to have a problem. You have a convertable, the extra weight in the back might be enough to put the rear where you want it.

 

Venom351R

Founding Member

Apr 27, 2002

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Apr 28, 2004

#5

• Apr 28, 2004

• #5

Black Stampede said:

.
Did you take the front to isolator out? .

Click to expand...

Nope, I'll take those pics in the morn, I cant now b/c its dark. I need to get the car on more level ground b/c I take them in the drive way you cant really see how it actually sits.

 

DougNuts

Founding Member

Jul 11, 2000

2,596

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47

Georgetown Ky

Apr 28, 2004

#6

• Apr 28, 2004

• #6

I have the C springs on my convertable. I didn't cut the optional 1/2 coil & I personally like the way it sits. I have poly spring isolators all the way around. It's not really low, but it sits nice and is obviously lower than stock.

 

Rains

Founding Member

Oct 14, 2002

314

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Chico, CALIFORNIA!!!

Apr 28, 2004

#7

• Apr 28, 2004

• #7

no cut coil

on each spring there is an isolator, top and bottom

if you want the front lower you can replace the ball joint with the ones from Steeda

i agree, springs do settle after a few days, even the intructions page from FMS say that the springs will settle over a period of a few days

i think the eibach pro kit drops 1.5 all the way around....

 

DougNuts

Founding Member

Jul 11, 2000

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47

Georgetown Ky

Apr 28, 2004

#8

• Apr 28, 2004

• #8

In his defense, the C springs come with a "dead coil". You can cut it off to lower the car approximately the thickness of the spring. The dead coil is essentially an extra circle with no gap between it and the next coil. The directions tell you that it's ok to cut it off if you so choose. It should have no effect on how the car rides.

 

Black Stampede

Founding Member

Sep 3, 2002

1,811

2

39

Grand Rapids, MI

Apr 29, 2004

#9

• Apr 29, 2004

• #9

So removing the front top isolators and cutting a 1/2 coil off the back is not a problem?


BTW, could you post a pic of your car?

 

Killer95Stang

New Member

Aug 7, 2003

256

1

0

Covina, CA

Apr 29, 2004

#10

• Apr 29, 2004

• #10

Here's how mine looks with the equivalent of 1/2" coil cut from the rear.. Since I'm using the Kenny Brown PHB, which lowers the rear LCA's mounting position by 1/2-5/8", I didn't have to cut the springs..

I personally think the C springs with isolators intact are low enough for me...

 

S

stunner6910

New Member

Oct 31, 2003

580

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south texas

Apr 29, 2004

#11

• Apr 29, 2004

• #11

hell yeah, that's as low as i wanna go Killer95Stang, but i'm concerned with this damn convertible issue. what would you recommend i do for my convertible. thanx

 

S

stunner6910

New Member

Oct 31, 2003

580

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0

south texas

Apr 29, 2004

#12

• Apr 29, 2004

• #12

will i need cc plates?

 

Killer95Stang

New Member

Aug 7, 2003

256

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0

Covina, CA

Apr 29, 2004

#13

• Apr 29, 2004

• #13

I would install the "C" springs in your vert uncut at first, and drive it around for a few days to let them settle... then decide whether you need to the cut the rear... besides, it only takes like 20 minutes to pull the rears if you need to cut them...

I chose to get CC plates, because of uneven tirewear issues.. so yes, I would recommend them...

 

S

stunner6910

New Member

Oct 31, 2003

580

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south texas

Apr 29, 2004

#14

• Apr 29, 2004

• #14

any brand? what do you think of the aluminum steeda ones?

 

V

VoODoo5Oh

Founding Member

Oct 14, 2000

335

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0

miami fl

Apr 29, 2004

#15

• Apr 29, 2004

• #15

i cut my c springs....car rode horrible ...handled just as bad and dragged a$$ into every shopping mall you could think of and dont even talk to me about speed bumps....i had to put my stock springs back on and throw my $$$$ away....lower it correctly and you will be happy....

 

Killer95Stang

New Member

Aug 7, 2003

256

1

0

Covina, CA

Apr 29, 2004

#16

• Apr 29, 2004

• #16

Then you just cut your springs too much, because I've heard of plenty of people who cut their rear "C" springs with no dragging ass issues... And if you read the flyer that comes with the "C" springs, it says you can cut up to one coil (maybe half), without effecting the ride quality, and handling with those springs...

I consider my car pretty low, and before I did the LT, DR GAS X pipe install, my BBK catted H-pipe would scrape on driveways, and speed bumps.. it really sucked... but after the longtube install, I have actually have more clearance, and absolutely no scraping issues... plus the back of the car never bottoms out..

As far as CC plates, for $179.00, you can buy the MM pieces from Houston Peformance and be done with it.. They are superior to the Steeda design in my opinion...

 

S

stunner6910

New Member

Oct 31, 2003

580

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south texas

Apr 29, 2004

#17

• Apr 29, 2004

• #17

thanx killer, just don't get pissed at voodooh

 

Black Stampede

Founding Member

Sep 3, 2002

1,811

2

39

Grand Rapids, MI

Apr 29, 2004

#18

• Apr 29, 2004

• #18

Killer your car looks absolutely sick man. I just cant beleive it lowered it that much because to me that looks like a 1.5 inch drop all the way around and C's arent sposed to do near that much. The look you have however is near exactly what I want and you are lowered 1/2 coil approximately in back which makes me think Ill go that route. But yes, after what you guys have said, I think I will put them in and leave the front isolators in and not cut the rears for a week so I can see how it sits after it settles.

Thanks guys.

 

Black Stampede

Founding Member

Sep 3, 2002

1,811

2

39

Grand Rapids, MI

Apr 30, 2004

#19

• Apr 30, 2004

• #19

Any body else have any pics of stangs with C-springs?

 

Killer95Stang

New Member

Aug 7, 2003

256

1

0

Covina, CA

Apr 30, 2004

#20

• Apr 30, 2004

• #20

stunner6910 said:

thanx killer, just don't get pissed at voodooh

Click to expand...

Sorry Voodu... and others, I didn't mean to come off looking like an ass, infact, that wasn't my intent... After I read what I wrote, I kinda saw how it looked as if I was getting on Voodu a bit, but I really wasn't... I was just trying to prove my point..

And thanks guys for the compliments.. I'm really happy how the car sits, and how it rides.. which should improve once I switch out the stock A-arms for the 03 pieces, and also change all the front bushings,tie-rod ends, and endlinks at the same time..