Best subframes to get?

nmcgrawj said:
Has anyone gotten custom subframes put in at a local shop? Thats what Jay Allen instructed me to do(he lives about 10-15 minutes away)

And if they come already powder coated, wont the shop have to grind off some inorder to weld them to the car?

I guess the ones in my old car would be considered custom ones, They were through the floor and connected to the roll cage. They are probably what i would consider the best subframes you can get, but cost more and are a lot more work.
 
i just had my mm full length subframes installed on my convertible today and WOW..... i've heard about people noticing the difference but I didn't think it would make that much of a difference. It handles like a completely different car, if anyone doesn't have SFC's on their vert i'd highly recommend it. :hail2:
 
Im not sure is they make these for the 94-95 mustangs, but these are the Competition Engineering subframes, CEE-3048 , $85.88 from summit, they're very beefy:

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Killercanary said:
I run global west full lengths on my car with the seat tie-ins and I wouldn't run any other set on mine. I have seen many different types, but none have impressed me more for their fit, structure, etc than the global west units. They are THICK tube steel and tie-in at multiple places along the car.

http://www.globalwest.net/mustang 79-98.htm#Subframe connectors:


Dito: Global West (similar to roll cage). Plus I can use the SF as a jacking point.
 
igotyofire said:
what do the seat supports do on subframe connectors, is that what the seats actually bolt into or what? are they neccessary?
they aren't necessary, but the mounting points for the seat is only on the floorboards, and not necessarily on a strong part of the frame, with lots of miles/ hard cornering/ sex with your girlfriend will wear out the weak connection on the floorboards and its just a good idea to stengthen them as well as provide another weld-in point for the connectors. this is what you see in the floorboards of a lot of high mile foxes now and soon enough you will start to see it in the 94-98's with time. everything that people recommend with sfc's are pretty important such as weld in, seat support, full length, and torque box re-enforcements.
 
nmcgrawj said:
What do ya think of this setup?

919_supplement.jpg



I've never seen so many brackets :lol: They are $150


I have Global West part# 929C, they have 1 more full length rail and I believe an additional crossmember....way overkill for my setup (and way too expensive) but the car feels great. I have a brand new set for the coupe still in the box if anyone's interested (part #929), I'll sell them half price.
 
VibrantRedGT said:
My buddy stole two stops signs and cut the posts to length and welded them in. FREEBIE!!!!!

Mine are the old Steeda's from 1994. Just a long peice of hollow steel ($79). Just pick whatever one you want. As long as there welded in its a ton better then nothing.

That just shows you can get a good piece channel and build them yourself thats what I am going to do when I get around to it
 
Maximum Motorsports Full Lengths are awesome. I drive a vert, and wow, everytime I drive I forget that it used to be a rattling tin can.

Being able to drive into the 7-11 without the car breaking in half is only on of the many reasons to get Full Length.:nice:

Bare steel
MMFL-3B
$119/set
 
When I had my 6 point roll bar installed, I had them weld in a set of through-floor subframes. They connected it to the main hoop which made it an 8 point. The bars are made of chromoly and are tig welded.

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94GTLaserRC said:
That's what I have....WELDED in...Labor was NOT cheap, but worth it.
RC

Yea, I paid $225 labor for mine.

Total cost

$120 + Shipping
$10 Sherwin Williams Rust Inhibitor spray paint
$225 Labor Installed

$355 Total, but worth it.:nice: