Best subframes to get?

i just had my mm full length subframes installed on my convertible today and WOW..... i've heard about people noticing the difference but I didn't think it would make that much of a difference. It handles like a completely different car, if anyone doesn't have SFC's on their vert i'd highly recommend it.

I will be buying a set of MMs full-length subframes in Feb. Too bad the car won't be out until April

VibrantRedGT said:

My buddy stole two stops signs and cut the posts to length and welded them in. FREEBIE!!!!!

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That's great Joe.

Personally, I'm planning on the Steeda full lengths with seat braces and the torque box reinforcments. $140.

Im not sure is they make these for the 94-95 mustangs, but these are the Competition Engineering subframes, CEE-3048 , $85.88 from summit, they're very beefy:

ExplodingGopher nice built 460

Killercanary said:

I run global west full lengths on my car with the seat tie-ins and I wouldn't run any other set on mine. I have seen many different types, but none have impressed me more for their fit, structure, etc than the global west units. They are THICK tube steel and tie-in at multiple places along the car.

http://www.globalwest.net/mustang 79-98.htm#Subframe connectors:

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Dito: Global West (similar to roll cage). Plus I can use the SF as a jacking point.

wytstang said:

ExplodingGopher nice built 460

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Thx, its killing me not to drive it though, gotta get my collectors plates, and i've got some more work to do on it when spring rolls around.

igotyofire said:

what do the seat supports do on subframe connectors, is that what the seats actually bolt into or what? are they neccessary?

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they aren't necessary, but the mounting points for the seat is only on the floorboards, and not necessarily on a strong part of the frame, with lots of miles/ hard cornering/ sex with your girlfriend will wear out the weak connection on the floorboards and its just a good idea to stengthen them as well as provide another weld-in point for the connectors. this is what you see in the floorboards of a lot of high mile foxes now and soon enough you will start to see it in the 94-98's with time. everything that people recommend with sfc's are pretty important such as weld in, seat support, full length, and torque box re-enforcements.

nmcgrawj said:

What do ya think of this setup?

I've never seen so many brackets They are $150

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I have Global West part# 929C, they have 1 more full length rail and I believe an additional crossmember....way overkill for my setup (and way too expensive) but the car feels great. I have a brand new set for the coupe still in the box if anyone's interested (part #929), I'll sell them half price.

Hows the BBK Part # 2506?

And also is this hard to install for a 1990 5.0 Mustang GT.?

VibrantRedGT said:

My buddy stole two stops signs and cut the posts to length and welded them in. FREEBIE!!!!!

Mine are the old Steeda's from 1994. Just a long peice of hollow steel ($79). Just pick whatever one you want. As long as there welded in its a ton better then nothing.

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That just shows you can get a good piece channel and build them yourself thats what I am going to do when I get around to it

If I'm getting a 6 pt roll bar in my vert, should I have them install through the floor subframes too or just buy some subframe connectors for them to weld in?

Maximum Motorsports Full Lengths are awesome. I drive a vert, and wow, everytime I drive I forget that it used to be a rattling tin can.

Being able to drive into the 7-11 without the car breaking in half is only on of the many reasons to get Full Length.

Bare steel
MMFL-3B
$119/set

When I had my 6 point roll bar installed, I had them weld in a set of through-floor subframes. They connected it to the main hoop which made it an 8 point. The bars are made of chromoly and are tig welded.

I had hpm subframes on my 87gt, and have MM full lengths, I would recommend either one, and have heard good things about the steeda ones.

FlyBy763 said:

I like my Steeda full length zinc subframes.

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That's what I have....WELDED in...Labor was NOT cheap, but worth it.
RC

94GTLaserRC said:

That's what I have....WELDED in...Labor was NOT cheap, but worth it.
RC

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Yea, I paid $225 labor for mine.

Total cost

$120 + Shipping
$10 Sherwin Williams Rust Inhibitor spray paint
$225 Labor Installed

$355 Total, but worth it.