best way to fix this rust?

DukeGnarley · May 28, 2004

ok, i've had some rust on my quarters for some time now, but i'm finally getting to it. what do you suppose is the best way to fix this, and how difficult is it going to be?

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNDEyMDgyNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNDEyMDgzNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE=.jpg

DukeGnarley · May 28, 2004

uh you might have to right click save target as for those ones.

..............nevermind

jesserose17 · May 28, 2004

I would cut the rust out and replace it with new sheet metal by welding it in.

85GTlover · May 28, 2004

jesserose17 said:
I would cut the rust out and replace it with new sheet metal by welding it in.

I agree that is the only real way....do it right the first time, you could use bondo but it will not last for long. I read about Por 15"s product.....comes in sticks like butter, some type of flexible stuff that is supposed to be be harder than rock and water proof and is.....supposed to be good stuff and made to fill holes and cracks but it can't be good as new steel. It is something I would not mind trying.....but not on my Mustang.....If i had absolute proof it is as good as the site says I might use it....I don't recall if it is guaranteed.
IT SAYS IF NOT FULLY SATISFIED GET YOUR MONEY BACK!!!
www.por15.com

Hack · May 29, 2004

85GTlover said:
I agree that is the only real way....do it right the first time, you could use bondo but it will not last for long. I read about Por 15"s product.....comes in sticks like butter, some type of flexible stuff that is supposed to be be harder than rock and water proof and is.....supposed to be good stuff and made to fill holes and cracks but it can't be good as new steel. It is something I would not mind trying.....but not on my Mustang.....If i had absolute proof it is as good as the site says I might use it....I don't recall if it is guaranteed.
IT SAYS IF NOT FULLY SATISFIED GET YOUR MONEY BACK!!!
www.por15.com

Umm, $5 back for a can of Por 15 will NOT make you feel better when your $150 Maaco paint job is spoiled!!! Oh, considering a better paint job than Maaco orange peel??? Hmmm.

A good paint job is pretty expensive, but still only as good as the sheet metal under it. I recommend that you look very carefully for rust and make sure you get all of it out prior to painting the car.

DukeGnarley · May 29, 2004

that's pretty much the only rust left on the car. would it be best to just cut out the rusty section and replace that, or would it be best to do the whole quarter panel?

Hack · May 29, 2004

DukeGnarley said:
that's pretty much the only rust left on the car. would it be best to just cut out the rusty section and replace that, or would it be best to do the whole quarter panel?

I've read advice on this forum for both ways. I don't know anything about bodywork other than what I've read. So, I don't feel that I can give you a recommendation. You could do a forum search for other bodywork threads. There are a lot, you could probably spend a few hours reading through them.

I think you should spend at least a little time with old threads, because there are a lot of links posted in various threads here that show rusted sheet metal replacement step-by-step. For some reason, I haven't saved any to link here. sorry.

Ronstang · May 30, 2004

DukeGnarley said:
that's pretty much the only rust left on the car. would it be best to just cut out the rusty section and replace that, or would it be best to do the whole quarter panel?

Fo small areas like that I prefer the patch panel route. Whole quarters are a pain and should be done when there is a lot of damage to the panel. Cutting out small areas and then trimming the patch panel to fit using the butt weld technique is the best IMHO. It is not that hard to do and the results can last for the life of the car if you do it properly. I have done both types of repairs and I always try to use the method best suited to the problem and in your case I feel you can get away with patches.

Hack · May 30, 2004

Ronstang said:
Fo small areas like that I prefer the patch panel route. Whole quarters are a pain and should be done when there is a lot of damage to the panel. Cutting out small areas and then trimming the patch panel to fit using the butt weld technique is the best IMHO. It is not that hard to do and the results can last for the life of the car if you do it properly. I have done both types of repairs and I always try to use the method best suited to the problem and in your case I feel you can get away with patches.

How do you recommend making sure that you've gotten all the rust? Can you share techniques for exploring the extent of damage to the panel? Would you just start cutting out the damage and then look inside the panel?

I'm kinda slow sometimes, (well most of the time) and I can see myself clamping the patch panel in place, cutting through both in preparation to butt-weld it in, and then realizing I should have cut 1/2" higher...

Platonic Solid · May 30, 2004

Before I join the “Been There, Done That Singers” in a chorus of “Do It Right the First Time and Replace it With Sheetmetal”, you need to investigate and solve the original source of the problem. Water is getting in there from one of several possible locations: Rear Window, Quarter Glass Area, Trunk Seal, and/or Holes in Wheel Wells.

Platonic Solid · May 30, 2004

Hack said:
How do you recommend making sure that you've gotten all the rust? Can you share techniques for exploring the extent of damage to the panel? Would you just start cutting out the damage and then look inside the panel?

I'm kinda slow sometimes, (well most of the time) and I can see myself clamping the patch panel in place, cutting through both in preparation to butt-weld it in, and then realizing I should have cut 1/2" higher...

Just start removing the paint in the suspect area (I usually use a collection of different sized and shaped, drill and dremel operated, wire brushes for this). This will also expose old plastic filler repairs. Be aware that what appears to be a small rusted area can quickly become an entire panel replacement job once you see the truth hiding under the paint.

Hack · May 30, 2004

Platonic Solid said:
Before I join the “Been There, Done That Singers” in a chorus of “Do It Right the First Time and Replace it With Sheetmetal”, you need to investigate and solve the original source of the problem. Water is getting in there from one of several possible locations: Rear Window, Quarter Glass Area, Trunk Seal, and/or Holes in Wheel Wells.

I thought that Mustangs were designed so water gets into these areas, and that the problems occurred when the drains at the bottom get clogged.?.?

Platonic Solid · May 30, 2004

Yes, Hack, but only from the quarter glass area and even there it should be limited. I believe this interior area was originally sprayed with a light coat of wax to prevent rust (an interesting, but not all that long lasting solution). I suspect that DukeGnarley will discover a bad rear window seal (with possible rust) and/or outer rear wheel well corrosion at the lip where it joins the quarter panel.

Platonic Solid · May 30, 2004

Here's a couple shots of my rear window channel repair using Por-15:
(Sometimes replacing sheetmetal isn't a realistic option.)

http://www.svend.net/mustang/73mach/73rearwindow.html

http://www.svend.net/mustang/73mach/73channelrepair.html

Ronstang · May 30, 2004

Hack,

I'm getting ready for a trip to Orlando from Houston to pick up a fastback with a fellow StangNet member and I don't have time to give you specifics right now but I can help you when I return if you are not in a hurry. Here are some pics of a full quarter replacement I did recently for a friend

http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/he...g.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hertzshelby66/my_photos

Maybe those pics will help you and you can contact me directly thru e-mail or IM when I return if you like.

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