Best years for the 302 block?

88 Fox GT

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Nov 18, 2002

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#1

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What were the best (strongest) years for the 302 block? I am looking to buy a block to start a buildup on. Most likely it won't be anything radical, just a strong runner for now. But I want a good block to start with. Are there any differences? Thanks.

 

69PaleHorse

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Aug 9, 2004

#2

• Aug 9, 2004

• #2

Think many of your questions will be answered on this thread:

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=482448&highlight=302+block

I love the search function.

 

88 Fox GT

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#3

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Thanks. Kind helpful, but no one in that thread really determined which one was strongest. Well, like I said, I'm not going for anything too crazy. I might try to find a late model block since it already has forged internals.

 

66 BLAKE 96

Native Texican

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#4

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86-93 Roller 5.0. Got to work out the 50 oz. imbalance stuff, but it's worth it. The most efficient 302 design.

That's what I'll eventually be upgrading to anyway.

 

brianj5600

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Sep 19, 2003

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#5

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Why can you not run a 28oz crank in a roller block? I thought you just had to remove the ridge behind the rear main.

 

66P51GT

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Nov 7, 2003

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Aug 9, 2004

#6

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• #6

brianj5600 said:

Why can you not run a 28oz crank in a roller block? I thought you just had to remove the ridge behind the rear main.

Click to expand...

Not sure about the ridge but you can run a 28oz crank in a roller block. You just have to match all of the components (Flywheel/Flexplate, Crank, Damper). As long as all three are 0, 28oz, 50oz, you'll be fine.

Case in point, my freind has a 331 built up with a 28oz imbalance in a 90 roller block. He also runs a supercharger and Twisted Wedge heads.

 

brianj5600

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#7

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One piece rear mains are different.

 

3

302RWP

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#8

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I have a book on all this, I'll just make it easy and tell you what it says . The 302, with castings first appearing in mid-1967, has been in steady production for more than 30 years. The best castings were produced between 1967 and the 1970's. Block casting quality became poor from 1975-1984. 1975-1984 302 blocks are ones to avoid due to cracking issues and sloppy workmanship. This period is infamous for ugly castings. Beginning in late 1984 with the roller blocks, 302 block casting quality improved in every respect. The downside to this is lighter, thinner castings. The upside is better casting techniques that have resulted in a stronger block. the 5.0L engine has an excellent reputation for durability which includes block casting quality. The block has been in regular production since late 1984 which means plenty of buildable cores..

 

ratio411

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#9

• Aug 9, 2004

• #9

I agree that the best 'basic' castings are probably around 69-70.
Ford took pride around that time and also tended to use higher nickel content in it's blocks.
Things fell off around 72 IMO.

The late 5.0 blocks are probably plenty strong, but some of the weight savings changes scare me personally.
I don't know for a fact, but I have read that the main caps are even hollow!

As far as the question/arguement over the best ever 302 specific block (excluding Boss of course)...
Most would say the "Mexico" casting is the strongest, hands down.
It is a 302 spec block done in 289 hipo casting style.
It is said, however, that this block was cast so stout because Ford didn't have enough faith in the Mexican workforce/industry to let them do a thin wall block.
Dave

 

D

D.Hearne

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Aug 10, 2004

#10

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Speed_Demon1965 said:

I might try to find a late model block since it already has forged internals.

Click to expand...

I've got news for you------ ALL 302's had forged rods , every last one. Only the 5.0 H.O.( 85-92) and the 69-70 Boss 302's had forged pistons. Only the 69-70 Boss 302's had forged cranks, so Only the boss 302's had "all forged internals" But for a hot street buildup, there's nothing wrong with Ford's cast iron cranks ( excepting the early 50oz balance ones) And nothing wrong with using cast or hypereutectic pistons, as long as your not going the NOS, or supercharging route. The biggest plus in using a roller block is just that, it's cast for use with a roller cam.

 

L

Lswhat

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Aug 13, 2004

#11

• Aug 13, 2004

• #11

i hope the e7 block doesnt have hollow main caps cuz it makes regular trips to 7500 rpms and doesnt seem to care at all. so if they come with forged rods and i have forged pistions then what would uthink the crank is good for horse power wise?

 

D

D.Hearne

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#12

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Lswhat said:

i hope the e7 block doesnt have hollow main caps cuz it makes regular trips to 7500 rpms and doesnt seem to care at all. so if they come with forged rods and i have forged pistions then what would uthink the crank is good for horse power wise?

Click to expand...

The previous 5.0 I had in my Ranger was pushin 400 ponies with Canfield heads, and I was spinnin it up to 7500 rpms with stock rods fitted with ARP bolts. Stock crank. Hypereutectic pistons ( Silvolites) The block gave up before anything else did, cracked the #4 cylinder wall. Never heard anything about hollow main caps. After handling a few sets lately, I'd say that was B.S. someone was spreading.

 

88 Fox GT

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#13

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I've never heard of hollow main caps on any engine.

 

BlueMonster65

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#14

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• #14

stay away from 73 to 76 these blocks have a higher deck and therefore lower compression. the best 302's are 69-70. and the best 5.0's are 87-89 i believe in 90 they switched from forged pistons to hyperutectic. the absolute best would be the boss 302. mexican blocks are supposed to be the strongest due to higher nickel content. not sure how you could visibly tell the difference though. also hipo 289 blocks are pretty good too, and have stronger main bearing caps than other 289's and 302's. you can run a 302 crank and rods and pistons in the 289 block to get a 302.

 

1

10secgoal

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Aug 14, 2004

#15

• Aug 14, 2004

• #15

brianj5600 said:

Why can you not run a 28oz crank in a roller block? I thought you just had to remove the ridge behind the rear main.

Click to expand...

This is true. I have a 10/10 crank from an early 302 in my roller motor. I also still buy all my stuff for a 289 (flexplate,balancer). It's heavy for N/A, I think it could be a little faster on motor, but everyone I talked to said they were stronger. And since I had squeeze in mind when I built the motor......