Better Vert ET w/welfare budget

the best mod i have made is a aod to t5 swap definitely more fun and faster to boot a lot faster

t-5 conversions can be cheap as sin if done at a swap yard my friend converted his for less than 150$, aod+heavy convertible.......probably low 14's with that set up, i'm on the welfare budget also port the lower intake (15$) weight removal (free) compucar nitrous kit in a bag (175$ on ebay used) underdrive pulleys (40$ shipped on ebay) and my stock geared mustang hangs with ls1's easy!

good luck and congrats on the new ride! mustangs rule even if theyre stock!

Best gift that Santa can bring you in December would be a Stall converter for your AOD. That or a better Valve body for the trans will really make all the difference in the performance of the car.

Does your car still run the stock H-pipe? I didn't see it listed in your sig... You're looking at 14.xx's with your current setup.

On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1

95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.

Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.



*1.) I got a metal flange adapter from Powered by Ford for $35 and tax. That was over a year ago. Summit Racing may also have one too.

Powered By Ford
1516 South Division Avenue
Orlando, FL 32805
Hours 0800-1800
Phone 407-843-3673
http://www.poweredbyford.com/

that is a ton of gear for that car. You are going to run out of rpm's way before you get to the end of the track and whatever you do, don't shift into OD or you can kiss that OD band goodbye. I'd seriously think about selling the gears for something like a 4.10 set up. If you can find some cash, the best bang for the buck you will get is a higher stall converter. Give www.edgeracingconverters.com a look and you'll be amazed what one fo their converters will do for your times.
Get yourself a BIG tranny cooler or you are going to cook that trans fast with those gears.
And don't forget, if you run 13.99 or quicker, you'll need a roll bar to run at the track.

davs5.0 said:

that is a ton of gear for that car. You are going to run out of rpm's way before you get to the end of the track and whatever you do, don't shift into OD or you can kiss that OD band goodbye. I'd seriously think about selling the gears for something like a 4.10 set up. If you can find some cash, the best bang for the buck you will get is a higher stall converter. Give www.edgeracingconverters.com a look and you'll be amazed what one fo their converters will do for your times.
Get yourself a BIG tranny cooler or you are going to cook that trans fast with those gears.
And don't forget, if you run 13.99 or quicker, you'll need a roll bar to run at the track.

Click to expand...

He's right about the 4.56's. If your going to run them any way, I hope your tires are at least 28" tall in the rear or you will definately run out of gear. Unless you run at a 1/8 mile track. then i wouldnt worry about it.

davs5.0 said:

that is a ton of gear for that car. You are going to run out of rpm's way before you get to the end of the track and whatever you do, don't shift into OD or you can kiss that OD band goodbye.
And don't forget, if you run 13.99 or quicker, you'll need a roll bar to run at .

Click to expand...

an aod won't shift into OD at wot, you should have enough rpm to make it a 1/4 mile, it's 13.49 and quicker to need a cage.

i think you might a run in the 13.80-14.00 bracket, that gear is what you need, it might be steep, but if you run out of r's, use a 28" tire.

on the street it will run like a raped ape and the track too, but you might run out of gear, i don't think you will though.

definitely spray it w/ a 100 shot.

on a 28" tire, and those gears w/ a 100 shot you'll go 12's

but like stated b4...the weak link is the aod

Good tire choice going with that tall 29" tire. It should be okay and with lockup that will increase the range with your rpm's at the track. I know when i was running mine lockup it would absolutely kill my rpm's when it locked up in third. I was going thru the traps at around 4300 on a 26" tire. Speaking of lockup, it might be a good idea to keep an eye out for a stronger input shaft. Definately a weak link there.
And I can't stress enough, get yourself a very good trans cooler if you don't already have one. Amust have for any aod that you plan to have some fun with.

28" or 29"..........29" might take too much away, but nicer on the freeway

if you already have the 29's just run them and see, try to hookup to a good tach, and see where your at , at the end. 1" of tire would probably only be about 200 rpm

definitely get a cooler & shift kit