Ok well...about 2 weeks ago I was driving home, going about 20-25 MPH down the street. So I'm cruising, not beating on it or anything, and all of a sudden I hear this odd pinging noise. Well I'm about 15 minutes away from home, it's about 11:30 PM and it's driving ok, so I drove it home and park it in the driveway. Next day I check to make sure everything looks ok under the hood; no visible problems; everything looks ok. So my friend comes over, takes it for a little test drive and he's going about 25-30 MPH, hits the gas a little bit and the car pops; he immediately turns it off. Car will not start.
Fast forward to this weekend at the mechanic shop; I walk in as they pull the head off and to my horror, the valve spring broke, sending the valve into the piston, pushing it back up into the head and bending the valve into the head. Totally ruined the one piston; I dont know about the connecting rod as I nearly threw up after seeing this.. and to make matters worse, the inside cylinder wall is slightly scratched from the valve bouncing around in there. :damnit: So, total damage is: 1 new cylinder head, all new valve springs, one new piston, head gasket (Cometic gaskets are expensive ****) and either a new block or have the block machined to take out the scratches.
Other problem is I don't have the money for all this right now; especially money to get a new block if necessary. What are the odds of being able to bore this block .030 over and get bigger pistons? Or would it be more cost effective to get a new block , and transfer the whole rotating assembly over? Also, what should I do about the crower valve springs that I used? I'm kinda skeptical about using them again, but they are the only ones that I know of that can handle the lift I am running (.612/.612). Being that I wasn't even romping on the engine, and these springs are made for race application, I don't feel they should have broke at 20 MPH. Think there is anything they can do for me, or am I pretty much SOL?
Here are the specs on the engine:
SHM block, SHM bearings, Manley rods/pistons, Forged Cobra Crank, bored .020 over
Heads:
Patriot Performance stage 2, Crower stage 3 blower cams (.612/.612), Crower high pressure springs + titanium retainers, Patriot valves (forget specs)
Fast forward to this weekend at the mechanic shop; I walk in as they pull the head off and to my horror, the valve spring broke, sending the valve into the piston, pushing it back up into the head and bending the valve into the head. Totally ruined the one piston; I dont know about the connecting rod as I nearly threw up after seeing this.. and to make matters worse, the inside cylinder wall is slightly scratched from the valve bouncing around in there. :damnit: So, total damage is: 1 new cylinder head, all new valve springs, one new piston, head gasket (Cometic gaskets are expensive ****) and either a new block or have the block machined to take out the scratches.
Other problem is I don't have the money for all this right now; especially money to get a new block if necessary. What are the odds of being able to bore this block .030 over and get bigger pistons? Or would it be more cost effective to get a new block , and transfer the whole rotating assembly over? Also, what should I do about the crower valve springs that I used? I'm kinda skeptical about using them again, but they are the only ones that I know of that can handle the lift I am running (.612/.612). Being that I wasn't even romping on the engine, and these springs are made for race application, I don't feel they should have broke at 20 MPH. Think there is anything they can do for me, or am I pretty much SOL?
Here are the specs on the engine:
SHM block, SHM bearings, Manley rods/pistons, Forged Cobra Crank, bored .020 over
Heads:
Patriot Performance stage 2, Crower stage 3 blower cams (.612/.612), Crower high pressure springs + titanium retainers, Patriot valves (forget specs)