Black Jack: Fixing torque steer

Ok... I'm trying to restore speedo & cruise control functionality. I think the best way to do this is going to involve wiring to a signal converter and I don't want to cut the stock wiring. To get from the '03 Cobra VSS/OSS to the converter, it's simple: I use a replacement VSS pigtail like this:



But, to go from the converter back to the computer's signal, I'd like a pigtail that's opposite that the stock computer's pigtail will connect to. Don't need the whole VSS. Just want the Can anyone point me in the right direction. I've been google searching to no avail.

If the above is the female connector, then I need the male connector, like the following pic, but with wires instead of in a VSS body:


If I can't find one, I'll just splice into the EEC's signal wire, but I'd prefer the cleanness of actual connectors. 'preciate any help.

Mustang5L5 said:

I don’t see it in the connector listings.

https://www.motorcraft.com/content/dam/ford-motorcraft/en_us/motorcraft_global/products/wire_sets_wiring/18376-Pigtail-Book-2016.pdf?fbclid=IwAR2uO418H2VMD6TaFoEMgVPw-XLqq3TBFeYITwTU5MCElwH36jUt-XxDyvo

If you need both sides, why not just grab a known male/female connector and just use that vs the actual VSS connector and trying to find a mate. Given that you aren’t connecting to an actual VSS sensor, you have flexibility.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the quick response. Maybe I'm misunderstanding. I actually am connecting to the VSS on the Transmission side (same connector out of the '03 Cobra T56 -- see below). Then, I must also connect to the computer's 'male' connector on the opposite side. That or I have to splice in.



FYSA, here's what I'm thinking:

VSS/OSS at transmission -->

--> female pigtail -->


--> Dakota signal converter SGI-100BT (converts signal pulse count by a factor of up to 4 in either direction): --> (2 outs)


1st out from Dakota --> missing male pigtail, where to find? --> EEC female connector already on car (hopefully without splicing) --> EEC-IV

--> 2nd out from Dakota --> Abbott Cable-X -->

--> Speedo cable --> Gauge cluster

Never found an appropriate pigtail. So, I spliced into the computer's signal wire.

For my own future reference, the Computer ground is run to the ground on the VSS pigtail, which is an Orange wire from the Computer & a purple wire on the replacement pigtail that I connected to the VSS. The signal from the VSS (Yellow) runs to a black wire (because I reversed the wires I soldered in before I figured out my error -- I suck at electronic stuff), which runs into the Speed "Input" terminal (between 'Spd'+ & 'Spd-' on the Dakota SGI-100BT.

The power & ground for the Dakota unit are run to the same power/ground that powers my reverse lockout & line-lock. I tried to run the Abbott-tach Cable-X speed cable box off of the same lines, but I guess the electric motor induced some interference & it caused the Dakota to read a signal when the car was stopped. It also caused the line-lock to stay locked until I press and released the thumb switch. So, I ended up running a separate ground under the dash & spliced into the A/C blower for its power line.

Edit/update (12Jul23): Moved the Dakota's power and ground to the same power as the Cable-X. It seems the ground, at least, from the line-lock & reverse lockout was causing a glitch erratic signal to the Dakota, especially when stopped.

The Cable-X signal runs from the same port as the computer's signal on the Cable-X. This allows me to adjust the Dakota's signal multiplier and get consistent signals to both. I'm just a little worried about the Cable-X's earlier interference, but that doesn't seem to be a problem.

The cable-x box apparently has a little warm up routine when I start the car that spins the speedo needle somewhat erratically. But after 10-15 seconds it calmed down. Cruise control works really well, now. A quick tweak or two had the speedo needle working with acceptable accuracy +/- 2mph at most speeds I checked & the multiplier was almost precisely what my calculations expected, validating that I had a reasonable understanding of all of the processes in play from the Trans -> Dakota -> Cable-X -> gauge cluster.

It does bounce a bit at lower speeds, which is probably just something cable driven cars have to live with. It might be better if I got them to make me a custom length cable with less bends, but it'll have to do for now, as I move on to other projects. Lastly, because I piped into the power from the HVAC blower circuit, the speedo does jump momentarily when I go from blower-off to full on, but then quickly recovers to what seems to be the same speed on my first tests.

I don't have a lot of pics to share on this one. Most of the stuff is under the dash & just amounts to ugly wiring & cable routing.