The reason I axed was that you said you went from a 5 speed to a 6 speed and lost some HP. I know some of the 6 speeds have some pretty high OD gears ,Sorry bud.. Thought you were joking. 1:1 (4th in our cars) is standard practice, but as far as I'm aware, dynos don't really care what gear you're in as long as you don't exceed their speed rating or ability to measure torque.
Gotcha. Yeah, I still dyno'd in 4th. The minor power drop could be the dyno, the day, the T56, the pullies... anything really. I am a little befuddled by losing 30 ft-lbs of tq, though.The reason I axed was that you said you went from a 5 speed to a 6 speed and lost some HP. I know some of the 6 speeds have some pretty high OD gears ,
True. But humidity, as well as temperature and barometric pressure, should automatically be compensated for in the correction done to get the test results to conform to SAE J1349, which is the standard for engine dyno testing.Humidity can effect the numbers too.
True. But humidity, as well as temperature and barometric pressure, should automatically be compensated for in the correction done to get the test results to conform to SAE J1349, which is the standard for engine dyno testing.
eh... it's the best, I agree... but... one is still not comparable to another. There's still no way around the conditions at the track or the calibrations of the dyno.Best dyno is the drag strip. Those numbers do not lie.
Don't pay any attention to the ET, look at the MPH. That is the true indicator on HP.
Is J1349 SAE? Because the dynos I posted were STD.True. But humidity, as well as temperature and barometric pressure, should automatically be compensated for in the correction done to get the test results to conform to SAE J1349, which is the standard for engine dyno testing.
There are corrections for track altitude/temp ect.eh... it's the best, I agree... but... one is still not comparable to another. There's still no way around the conditions at the track or the calibrations of the dyno.
Is J1349 SAE? Because the dynos I posted were STD.
what RPM did you launch at with those tires or did you feather the clutch? I love my 4.10's with my Z-Spec T5.I must say that the I am very pleasantly surprised! The 60' was as bad as I imagined it would be, but my ET was better! The car is definitely geared well for the trap speed and power band!
I am proud to present Black Jack's first timeslip, and its fastest ET to date! The last owner told me he ran a 13.5@103 best.
60': 2.24
1/8: 8.71@84.22
1/4:13.35@105.49
I'm stoked that on its very first run it only ETed 0.06 seconds slower than the fastest ET I ever got out of my 1997 Corvette (bone stock) - a 13.29@107.9, despite 60'ing worse. The corvette used to run high 1.9s to 2.1s in the 60' with street radials.
I only got 2 runs in tonight, and on the second run, I treed much better with a .0547 reaction, and I really tried to slip the clutch, but these tires just weren't having it. It ran a
60': 2.31 60',
1/8: 8.82@84.24
1/4: 13.456@105.63
I also recently received the dyno files and will add them momentarily.
Chris
I really like the Centerforce Dual Friction ® Clutch that's what I am using, it grabs like $hit sticking to a blanketWe're talking about alternators, not clutches...
On clutches, though... I've never run a stage spec 2, but a spec 3 held up great behind my twin-turbo car. The King Cobra clutch in it now is fine until I swap over the TKO, at which point, the Spec 3+ will come along with it.
I Three have the Accufab 70mm installed for the last 7 years and no whistle sound.I too have an accufab 70mm.. It's in a box awaiting install in like 10 years.I hope it doesn't have the dreaded whistle that bbk/others have.
You'll have a little taller 1st than I did, but my best results on those old All-Seasons was launching slightly above idle, feathering the clutch briefly and then letting those short 4.10s & 3.35 1st gears (13.74 starting line ratio) do all the work. Now, my starting line ratio is ~28% taller and though I have the drivetrain to do it & stickier tires, I'm leaving from the limiter & still not achieving the same 60' I used to. Old best on 225/50/16 Goodyear all-seasons was 1.83. New best on 275/40/17 Nitto Drag Radials was 1.86. I'm guessing I'm going to need to get my nitrous set up to spray off of the line with a progressive before I get back to new bests.what RPM did you launch at with those tires or did you feather the clutch? I love my 4.10's with my Z-Spec T5.
I've used the Centerforce Dual Friction. No issues... chattered a little but not like my Specs.I really like the Centerforce Dual Friction ® Clutch that's what I am using, it grabs like $hit sticking to a blanket
Products - Clutch Kits - Full Clutch Kits - Dual Friction
var showFilters = ['Out of Package Weight LBS','Torque Capacity FT/LB','SFI 1.1 Approved','Ring Gear Tooth Count','Clutch Disc Diameter IN','Clutch Disc Diameter MM','Disc Type Sprung Solid','Disc Quawww.centerforce.com
Well, lucky me. I was the fortunate one to get the Accufab 70 that whistles. Speaking of things to do, this is on the list. Wanna pull it off and round out the ridges around the IAC ports. I've been told that usually clears things up.I Three have the Accufab 70mm installed for the last 7 years and no whistle sound.
It's been almost 20 years now. I wonder if he ever installed it or if it's still sitting on the shelf.I Three have the Accufab 70mm installed for the last 7 years and no whistle sound.
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