I'll have to check but with my car in the shop getting the paint/body redone, and I also bought a MM K member kit to go in it which means I think I'll need to get 96+ spindles thus I might be selling my 94/95 spindles in the future. The only problem is I don't know when the engine will be pulled and that work will happen. I'd assume it's a few months away at minimum.
LMR has a step by step 5-lug + brake conversion part ordering process (link) and it looks like it's comprehensive:
I guess the only other thing I'd need is my R58 Cobra R wheels. So, I'd run down this list and compare to Mike's thread before I purchased, but does anything stick out to you guys as missing? The 94-95 spindles are not with LMR, but I found a nice black painted or powdercoated set for $300 on FB, this morning, and many more in the $400 shipped range.
Here's the list of parts from the Conversion base kit:
I guess the only other thing I'd need is my R58 Cobra R wheels. So, I'd run down this list and compare to Mike's thread before I purchased, but does anything stick out to you guys as missing? The 94-95 spindles are not with LMR, but I found a nice black painted or powdercoated set for $300 on FB, this morning, and many more in the $400 shipped range.
Here's the list of parts from the Conversion base kit:
| (1) 93 Cobra Master Cylinder, (1) Master Cylinder Adapter Kit, (1) Proportioning Valve Plug, (1) Adjustable Proportioning Valve, (2) J&M Stainless Front Brake Hoses, (4) Brake Caliper to Spindle Bolts, (1) Cobra Rear Brake Caliper Adapter Kit, (2) J&M Stainless Rear Brake Hoses, (1) J&M Stainless Rear Brake Center Hose, (2) Rear Brake Hose To Axle Mounting Bolts, (1) Adjustable Center Parking Brake Cable, (2) Parking Brake Cable Guides, (2) 87-92 Mustang Parking Brake Cables, (2) 93 Mustang Parking Brake Cables, (2) Parking Brake Cable E-Clips, (2) Disc Conversion Hard Lines, (10) Wheel Studs |
From MM's install instructions for their K-Member.
"
Spindle Compatibility
For best results, we recommend the 1996+ Mustang
spindles in all applications. This will result in the lightest,
stiffest steering setup for minimum wandering and
maximum responsiveness. The reason is because the
steering arm on the 1987-95 spindles is located higher
than on the 1996+ spindles; therefore the 1987-95
spindles require an additional 1” of bumpsteer spacer
between the steering arm and the tie-rod end than the
1996+ spindles."
From MM's Tech Tips section.
"
Warning: 1996-04 Mustang spindles & Stock pre-1996 K-members
Do not install a 1996-04 spindle on a 1979-93 or 1994-95 Mustang fitted with a stock-geometry k-member!Doing so will significantly increase bumpsteer because...
- The steering arm on the 1996-04 spindle is about 1.02" (26mm) lower (relative to the rest of the spindle) than the steering arm of any 1979-95 spindle.
- The lower steering arm forces the outer tie-rod end to a lower position.
- That new position is far too low for the steering rack location of any 1979-95 Mustang, and radically changes the steering geometry.
- It is impossible to correct the geometry with a bumpsteer kit because the outer tie-rod end needs to be raised so much that it would have to occupy the same physical space as the steering arm."
Well... When I went to get the car, I had him start it for me, but given how long it had been sitting, and the fact that he hadn't changed the oil in a couple years, I didn't want to damage anything going for a test drive.
Last night, after work, with fresh fluids in the trans, motor, and a topped off rear diff, I got it out on the road. It ran very well, shifted nicely, and blew cold A/C.
It wasn't without new problems, since I owned it.
- door controls don't work.
- driver's door won't open from inside.
- fuel line was pressed and slightly melted against the exhaust pipe behind the muffler.
- clutch cable feels like it's binding, and it looks melted where it comes out of the bellhousing.
- His claim of the tires being dry rotted were, in my opinion, an exaggeration. I won't replace them, at this point.
- No rearview mirror
- No headliner
- broken tail light.
- headlight adjustment studs are snapped
- needs headlight trim
- received accufab TB in the mail and will install it to put an end to the idle whistle
Last night, after work, with fresh fluids in the trans, motor, and a topped off rear diff, I got it out on the road. It ran very well, shifted nicely, and blew cold A/C.
It wasn't without new problems, since I owned it.
- door controls don't work.
- driver's door won't open from inside.
- fuel line was pressed and slightly melted against the exhaust pipe behind the muffler.
- clutch cable feels like it's binding, and it looks melted where it comes out of the bellhousing.
- His claim of the tires being dry rotted were, in my opinion, an exaggeration. I won't replace them, at this point.
- No rearview mirror
- No headliner
- broken tail light.
- headlight adjustment studs are snapped
- needs headlight trim
- received accufab TB in the mail and will install it to put an end to the idle whistle
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~1,104 (odometer)
OVERHEATING
So... I spent all day today, and the better part of yesterday fighting the old fight. I thought I'd fixed the overheating issue, all those years ago. I have NEVER had a fox put up an overheating fight like this, and I'm starting to think that one of the coolant ports has a blockage, if one of the head gaskets isn't turned around.
During a 96 degree day, I was able to cruise about 15 miles, but not with the A/C on. The temp gauge stayed near the top of the gauge, pointed at the "N", which seemed to be in the 195-210 range using an infrared sensor on the T-stat housing. Later the T-stat housing went as high as 230* before I heard what I thought was detonation and shut it down. I swapped the stock water pump pulley back on in place of the U/D pulley that was on it. Then I drained the coolant, pulled out the radiator. The Ron Davis Radiator's fins were clean as a whistle, both inside and out as far as I could tell, and the fluid was beautiful, though probably a 50/50 mix. Pulled the T-stat out -- wanted to ensure there were no air bubble or T-stat shenanigans. Refilled with water only, though there was still coolant in the block. I let it idle with the A/C on and the temps pushed over 195*, this evening while it was 84* outside. It was still climbing. When I shut the A/C off, it stabilized and dropped to the 193 range. Then I spun the motor a little faster @ 1,500 RPMs and the temps dropped quite a bit. That tells me pretty clearly that the U/D crank pulley has got to go, and the stocker will go back on tomorrow.
This one is a bit of a stumper. I think I'll bring timing back down to stock to protect the motor when it's hot if the stock crank pulley doesn't get rid of the issue.
ELECTRICAL
One thing that did change was the head unit. It was not worth whatever Mark paid to do it, though. The electrical is a cluster F, now. Lights aren't working right. I've got an airbag light. The blinkers are intermittent. Turning on the lights causes the gauges to completely spaz. No instrument cluster backlight. The line lock no longer functions. I guess it all stemmed from whomever did the stereo system. Some genius ran the amp's wire through the driver's fender, through the rubber boot in the door to get into the cab, and then down the floor board. Hopefully, I can get into the dash wiring tomorrow and find a simple fix, but I suspect I'm going to find a hack job.
OVERHEATING
So... I spent all day today, and the better part of yesterday fighting the old fight. I thought I'd fixed the overheating issue, all those years ago. I have NEVER had a fox put up an overheating fight like this, and I'm starting to think that one of the coolant ports has a blockage, if one of the head gaskets isn't turned around.
During a 96 degree day, I was able to cruise about 15 miles, but not with the A/C on. The temp gauge stayed near the top of the gauge, pointed at the "N", which seemed to be in the 195-210 range using an infrared sensor on the T-stat housing. Later the T-stat housing went as high as 230* before I heard what I thought was detonation and shut it down. I swapped the stock water pump pulley back on in place of the U/D pulley that was on it. Then I drained the coolant, pulled out the radiator. The Ron Davis Radiator's fins were clean as a whistle, both inside and out as far as I could tell, and the fluid was beautiful, though probably a 50/50 mix. Pulled the T-stat out -- wanted to ensure there were no air bubble or T-stat shenanigans. Refilled with water only, though there was still coolant in the block. I let it idle with the A/C on and the temps pushed over 195*, this evening while it was 84* outside. It was still climbing. When I shut the A/C off, it stabilized and dropped to the 193 range. Then I spun the motor a little faster @ 1,500 RPMs and the temps dropped quite a bit. That tells me pretty clearly that the U/D crank pulley has got to go, and the stocker will go back on tomorrow.
This one is a bit of a stumper. I think I'll bring timing back down to stock to protect the motor when it's hot if the stock crank pulley doesn't get rid of the issue.
ELECTRICAL
One thing that did change was the head unit. It was not worth whatever Mark paid to do it, though. The electrical is a cluster F, now. Lights aren't working right. I've got an airbag light. The blinkers are intermittent. Turning on the lights causes the gauges to completely spaz. No instrument cluster backlight. The line lock no longer functions. I guess it all stemmed from whomever did the stereo system. Some genius ran the amp's wire through the driver's fender, through the rubber boot in the door to get into the cab, and then down the floor board. Hopefully, I can get into the dash wiring tomorrow and find a simple fix, but I suspect I'm going to find a hack job.
Welcome back!
On the 5 lug swap, I think it can be done a lot cheaper just by swapping out vendors. Check out Rock Auto for a lot of that stuff, brake parts especially.
Overheating - what fan is on the car? Stock or electric? Tstat getting stuck? UD pulley is a definite no no. Im no expert, but I did get my turbo car to behave with the AC on in 100° heat.
On the 5 lug swap, I think it can be done a lot cheaper just by swapping out vendors. Check out Rock Auto for a lot of that stuff, brake parts especially.
Overheating - what fan is on the car? Stock or electric? Tstat getting stuck? UD pulley is a definite no no. Im no expert, but I did get my turbo car to behave with the AC on in 100° heat.
How you been Joe?
Blue car goes to the shop next month. It's been nestled safely indoors waiting for Michael Bell to finish his new shop.
I would call myself lucky to have this problem. Women, alcohol, debt... basically every other problem I can think of is worse!
Just like the convertible, I will make money on Blackjack if I ever sell, and there will be one more fox body on the road that's better for it when I'm done!
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Good stuff! Will definitely check out RockAuto before I pull the trigger.
Neither of my turbo cars had any overheating problems, except when the efans blew fuses or something.
Stock fan & shroud. No thermostat. I removed it to guarantee there were no shenanigans with air bubbles or the replacement thermostat I put in it.
Look, ya'll:
Black Jack's first wheelie:
So, anyways, I swapped on a new Steeda Clutch cable. I also put the stock crank pulley back on. In 75* ambient temps with the A/C blowing ice-cold, the t-stat housing temps never exceeded 190*, which I was very happy with. I can live with 220* or so in 100*+ ambient. So, we'll see how it does on the next hot day.
And that was with this coming out of the vents:
So, maybe I won't have to spring for a new radiator and a tear down after all. I will say that replacement fan clutch seems too aggressive, and it really is spinning the S#$% out of the fan. It is REALLY moving some air. I'll keep an eye out for stress cracks, and if they appear, I'll find a contour or Mark VIII fan.
I've got the door panels off, and noticed there are NO door lock actuators. So, I'll be getting to work on that soon. I also swapped over to one of those Daniel Carpenter center consoles with cup holders. The registration's in the mail to Florida. Gonna keep making progress.
Black Jack's first wheelie:
So, anyways, I swapped on a new Steeda Clutch cable. I also put the stock crank pulley back on. In 75* ambient temps with the A/C blowing ice-cold, the t-stat housing temps never exceeded 190*, which I was very happy with. I can live with 220* or so in 100*+ ambient. So, we'll see how it does on the next hot day.
And that was with this coming out of the vents:
So, maybe I won't have to spring for a new radiator and a tear down after all. I will say that replacement fan clutch seems too aggressive, and it really is spinning the S#$% out of the fan. It is REALLY moving some air. I'll keep an eye out for stress cracks, and if they appear, I'll find a contour or Mark VIII fan.
I've got the door panels off, and noticed there are NO door lock actuators. So, I'll be getting to work on that soon. I also swapped over to one of those Daniel Carpenter center consoles with cup holders. The registration's in the mail to Florida. Gonna keep making progress.
There lots of places you can save money on that list, for starters that booster can be found for as little as $60 from the same manufacturer skp...
Degreased:
New wipers and cleaned up a little:
New center console, Tightened Shifter, tracking down what may have caused the line lock to be inop, door panels off and waiting for lock actuators & inner handles to arrive. Swapping A/C control location with the head unit, soon. Hoping ignition switch helps out on a lot of the electrical gremlins I'm chasing.
New Driver's weatherstrip. Obviously drivers door has been replaced and painted at some point in its life:
That's it for today. Cruised around in 85* weather with A/C going. Got light headed due to exhaust... found the fuel filler neck boot was torn and not bolted properly to the filler door area. I think the fumes are coming into the cabin there.
New wipers and cleaned up a little:
New center console, Tightened Shifter, tracking down what may have caused the line lock to be inop, door panels off and waiting for lock actuators & inner handles to arrive. Swapping A/C control location with the head unit, soon. Hoping ignition switch helps out on a lot of the electrical gremlins I'm chasing.
New Driver's weatherstrip. Obviously drivers door has been replaced and painted at some point in its life:
That's it for today. Cruised around in 85* weather with A/C going. Got light headed due to exhaust... found the fuel filler neck boot was torn and not bolted properly to the filler door area. I think the fumes are coming into the cabin there.
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I did on the 195 I put in it back in the day. I bought a 185 that will need to go in before the car runs too cool. Will check it. Thx for the reminder.
Took a look at Rock Auto and saw what you mentioned. I'll start checking Rock Auto for more of the big ticket items I buy. LMR is so damn convenient though, I must say. If I do the brake and lug swap, I will see how much more I can save.
Looks good
I dont get why do people still buy delete pulleys lol, I can understand with blower brackets that where designed around them but never under stood how they sold those vs just buying a new $20 belt and removing the old pump and bracket. Whole lot cheaper and cleaner
As for the rock auto/ parts store stuff vs specifically shops I get there in it for profit and its convenient, but damn the mark ups are getting a bit high for some parts. I still like my old school draglites so my last 5 lug swap so I did the "gt" brakes, most expensive thing was the custom axles since I did 9" ends but was still no where near 2k in parts redoing the whole system.
Ha! You noticed the pulley. Yeah, I agree. I never understood that one, either. Maybe it's so you can do an alternator delete, too
Yeah. The Cobra brakes on both of my other cars stop wonderfully, and look great. It would be hard for me to put GT brakes on, but I am waffling about the purpose of this car. The stock shocks and brakes help with its getting off the line and going in a straight line. B-springs & Cobra brakes would limit weight transfer and add rotating mass.
Yeah. The Cobra brakes on both of my other cars stop wonderfully, and look great. It would be hard for me to put GT brakes on, but I am waffling about the purpose of this car. The stock shocks and brakes help with its getting off the line and going in a straight line. B-springs & Cobra brakes would limit weight transfer and add rotating mass.
New headlight finishing (trim & backplates) kit:
New left rear tail light assembly:
Black Jack has an appointment for B-springs + isolators to be installed and then an alignment. Here's hoping that it'll scrape by without needing CC plates & a bump steer kit. Some posts suggest that there were satisfied folks out there with B-springs without needing the extras. There are others that said that they induced so much inner tire wear and still had too much slop from the stock plates. If it doesn't work out, I'll go with good stuff: MM CC plates & Steeda or Team Z bump steer and have it realigned. I priced the Steeda bumpsteer & MM plates at ~$400. Any rec's or advice?
New left rear tail light assembly:
Black Jack has an appointment for B-springs + isolators to be installed and then an alignment. Here's hoping that it'll scrape by without needing CC plates & a bump steer kit. Some posts suggest that there were satisfied folks out there with B-springs without needing the extras. There are others that said that they induced so much inner tire wear and still had too much slop from the stock plates. If it doesn't work out, I'll go with good stuff: MM CC plates & Steeda or Team Z bump steer and have it realigned. I priced the Steeda bumpsteer & MM plates at ~$400. Any rec's or advice?