Black Magic Fan owners - Please Help

[Scott W]

I just installed a flex-a-lite black magic fan (flx-175). I have the "B" wired to the battery, the "G" wired to ground, and the "+" also wired to the battery (so the fan will operate even after the engine is turned off - if the engine temp is above what is set on the thermostat)

the problem i'm having is as soon as I put the fuse in the holder, the fan starts going. the engine is freezing cold (hasnt' been started all winter). If I unlplug the "+" the fan stops. If I change the "+", and connect it to a switch 12V source, instead of the battery, I'll have a similar problem in that the fan will alway run when the key is turned to the "on" position.

Why is this happening? do I have a faulty unit? Any help would be much appreciated.

 

[HISSIN50]

i dont have one, but will take a shot and give you a bump.

it sounds like a faulty unit. if your wiring is correct (i dont know how the instructions read), but it sounds like it is correct.

it sounds like the thermostat switch for the fan is telling the fan that the car is hot (enough to turn on the fan). you could put a switch on it, but that sorta defeats the fan switch idea.


side note, having the fan run with the car off does not do much. it kinda cools the coolant in the rad, but it is the coolant in the block that continues to get hotter. but it does not matter (thought i would mention it in case it makes wiring easier for ya).

is there more wiring, or is that it?
sounds like you have it figured out and it is a bad controller. just my two cents worth.

also, in the future if you want to have the fan shut off upon start up, you can wire a relay in (triggered from the crank circuit) to kill the fan just while cranking.

good luck.

 

[Scott W]

that's basically all the wiring. I can hook up an optional switch inside, and ther's a hook-up for a/c, which I don't have.

I've read in several place that a diode may be required. any ideas?

 

[HISSIN50]

that's basically all the wiring. I can hook up an optional switch inside, and ther's a hook-up for a/c, which I don't have.

I've read in several place that a diode may be required. any ideas?

on a self contained unit like yours, it should include all that you need. i think you are referring to a free-wheeling diode, as is really needed on a Mark VIII fan. (the FW diode is for the fan when it goes from sucking juice while on, to a generator while power is cut and it is still freewheeling). this is my understanding of it.

but that fan (mark VIII) sucks some huge juice (can be over 100 amps at start up).

your fan should not suck enough amps to need the FW diode. it is better to use, but many dont. also many OEM's dont even use one. i dont really understand the ramifications of the feedback when the fan freewheels, but one could always use a blocking diode on the feed to the motor (but then you might as well use a FW diode; i dont know the difference, but i bet there is not much).

Michael Yount is using a really slick variable, progressive controller, but it is real pricey.

anyhow, point was you should have everything you need self contained in the package they sent you. good luck.

 

[EMW150]

You have it wired correctly, must be a bad relay.

 

[black82fiveoh]

its nothing out of the ordinary. my t-stat never worked from day 1. just wire it to a switch and turn it on when you start the car.

did you have to bend your rad. to make the fan fit ok? I had a fms alum rad and that fan... I had to cut off a plastic nub on the back of the control box, then I had to bend the radiator to bolt the bottom to the rad. It didnt seem right, but that was the only way it fit!!??

that fan never impressed me- Im now going to a regular flex-fan!
GOOD LUCK!

 

[Scott W]

hissin50, your right, I don't need the diode, the diode is required for the a/c, like you said.

It's either a faulty t-stat, or a bad controller. As soon as power hits either the "+", "C", or "M" you can here a click inside the fan controller, if i install the fuse, the fan kicks on. Thanks for the input guys. I'm waiting for flex-a-lite to open so I can give them a call.

I think I'll have to replace it, i'll wire the manual overide switch so I can at least turn the fan on and off when req'd until the replacemt fan arrives.

 

[Scott W]

I just spoke with flex-a-lite, and they think its a faulty relay also (stuck in the open postition) Good call EMW150

Ill have to remove it and wait for an exchange - what a P.I.T.A.

 

[badas85]

I just spoke with flex-a-lite, and they think its a faulty relay also (stuck in the open postition) Good call EMW150

Ill have to remove it and wait for an exchange - what a P.I.T.A.

damn that sucks. at least they are going to fix it for you. i bought one myself and it worked for about two months then it wouldn't turn on after the first turn on and i would have to get out of my car and pop the hood to pull the wires up to get it to turn back on. i took it apart and fixed it myself luckily but i'm hearing some bad things about these fans, it works great for cooling so far but i'm about to put a 347 in so we will see.

 

[HISSIN50]

Scott, can you use a relay from the parts store in the mean time? i dont know what all comes in the kits (i have rigged some together before since that stuff can be pricey).....
if so, then that is nice so that you will have a spare relay (glovebox) for when the one in the system craps out (in traffic on a 100* day. LOL).

glad you got it figured. good luck.

 

[Michael Yount]

Scott - try this controller; I'd forego their replacement parts. This controller is absolutely world class - instantly turns switches and relays into antiques.

http://www.dccontrol.com/