bleeding air out of cooling system

I put my jack under the driver side A arm and jack it up as high as possible. Then mess with the upper radiator hose a few times to help get the air out while filling the radiator. Then cap it and fill the overflow reservoir half full and you should be good to go. Then check the level in the overflow tank daily for several days and then weekly for several weeks. After doing this mine has been fine after four or so heat cycles.

Good Luck, Don
 
Fill the radiator up, start the car with the rad cap off and the heater on. Let the car idle, once the thermostat opens you will see the coolant bubbling, this is the air excaping. Also the coolant will flow out of the filler neck when a big air pocket excapes, this is normal. Once the bubbling has finished top off the radiator and overflow can, put the radiator cap on and you are done.

Mario
 
I combine Don's and Mario's techniques. I get the front driver-side high like Don, but I run it with no cap like Mario does (all at once). I let it idle like this till the stat opens and then for a bit more. If you do it this way, DO be very CAREFUL of hot coolant 'jumping' out of the radiator filler neck.

Good luck.
 
woo-hooo!!!! 12,006 posts for JT!! :hail2:
On the subject, though, i will have to try these beurping techniques today. After a head gaasket swap over the weekend, temp and been hanging around 190*, but hung around 180* before. this morinign on the way to work, going down and around a right hand curve, the gauge went from 170* to 210*, then as I got out of the cure and was driving flat and straight again, it fell right back down to 180*, all in a matter of 4 seconds... Perhaps there's still air in the system...
 
funny... I burped and filled the system yesterday (jacked under the A arm), and this morning down down the same swooping curve, the temp did the same EXACT thing; goes from 175* to 210*, then back down to 180*, all in 4 seconds...
 
jaymac said:
then back down to 180*
this is the most important part to me. If it went up and didn't go back down, you'd most likely have issues, but since it goes back down, maybe it's the way the coolant sloshes around or something while approaching that curve.

I've had my autometers jump to 230ish and back down several times; gives me a stomach ache and everything. Usually, it will go back down, but definately not within 4 seconds.
 
I agree all the way with James. Something is likely just funked with the guage reading.
There really should be no sloshing per se - the system is under 16 PSI. Now the lower radiator hose can collapse, but I dont think you can do a 30*F temp increase and then decrease in under 10 seconds.

I would just go over all the wiring one more time to ensure no wires are crimped/crushed, etc.

Good luck J.
 
HISSIN50 said:
I agree all the way with James. Something is likely just funked with the guage reading.
There really should be no sloshing per se - the system is under 16 PSI. Now the lower radiator hose can collapse, but I dont think you can do a 30*F temp increase and then decrease in under 10 seconds.

I would just go over all the wiring one more time to ensure no wires are crimped/crushed, etc.

Good luck J.

:stupid: that much of a change that quickly would tell me you might have the temp sender wire grounding against the engine somewhere, like right by the vavle cover...