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Progress Thread Block transplant (and more)

  • Thread starter Thread starter JD1964
  • Start date Start date Apr 1, 2026
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JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
15 Year Member
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Thursday at 6:10 PM
#381
  • Thursday at 6:10 PM
  • #381
Noobz347 said:
I honestly hate this part particularly, for people actively planning for boost when something like this is discovered.
Click to expand...
I hear ya. I’m lucky I can do all this myself. What would really suck is having to send your car out to pay ridiculous amounts of money and half the time not even knowing what the F they’re doing with your car. I can handle this, but I just really didn’t want to spend this money. The work doesn’t bother me too much, but the money does. Although, I know other people spend way way more money on their cars than I do.
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
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Thursday at 6:14 PM
#382
  • Thursday at 6:14 PM
  • #382
The hill that drives me nuts is that machine work is going to cost about the same no matter the block.

Two bolt? Four Bolt?

 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
15 Year Member
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Thursday at 6:26 PM
#383
  • Thursday at 6:26 PM
  • #383
I’m leaning Dart SHP or Blueprint. Both about $3k. I thought I was reading that price is machined and ready to go. Except for maybe cam bearings
 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
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Thursday at 6:28 PM
#384
  • Thursday at 6:28 PM
  • #384
I like my stock rotating assembly. Factory forged pistons and it was entirely balanced and rebuilt less than 3k miles ago.
 
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Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
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Thursday at 6:28 PM
#385
  • Thursday at 6:28 PM
  • #385

BOSS 302 ENGINE BLOCK

Unleash legendary power with the BOSS 302 Engine Block, expertly crafted by Ford Performance Engineers for unmatched strength and versatility. Built from diesel-grade iron, it's your ultimate choice for dominating both track and street. Ford Performance Engineers have designed the replacement...
paulsautomotiveengineering.com
 
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JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
15 Year Member
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Thursday at 6:46 PM
#386
  • Thursday at 6:46 PM
  • #386
Noobz347 said:

BOSS 302 ENGINE BLOCK

Unleash legendary power with the BOSS 302 Engine Block, expertly crafted by Ford Performance Engineers for unmatched strength and versatility. Built from diesel-grade iron, it's your ultimate choice for dominating both track and street. Ford Performance Engineers have designed the replacement...
paulsautomotiveengineering.com
Click to expand...
This definitely sparks my interest
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
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Thursday at 6:55 PM
#387
  • Thursday at 6:55 PM
  • #387
It's like right in the middle.
 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
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Thursday at 7:21 PM
#388
  • Thursday at 7:21 PM
  • #388
So on that one it would need the cylinders machined and honed to my pistons, corrrct?
 
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Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
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Friday at 1:06 AM
#389
  • Friday at 1:06 AM
  • #389
Yes... You would have the block machined to your rotating assembly.
 
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JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
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Friday at 6:45 AM
#390
  • Friday at 6:45 AM
  • #390
I been reading around the web and see that cracking is coming at this area of the late model stock 302 roller blocks. I’m definitely going to upgrade. I’m going to do some research and maybe connect the various aftermarket block makers and see how ready they are off the shelf for a stock bore stock stroke rotating assembly. The Dart or the Blueprint may only need finish honing whereas the Boss block would also need boring. Point is, I don’t mind a slightly more expensive block that needs less machining to be ready for assembly.
 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
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Friday at 6:48 AM
#391
  • Friday at 6:48 AM
  • #391
By the way, in hindsight, the block cracked first and as I continued to try and tighten the nut, the threads stripped.

More hindsight; the leak I was attempting to fix was small. So small I bet stop leak would have handled it.
 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
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Friday at 6:52 AM
#392
  • Friday at 6:52 AM
  • #392
Depending on how expensive and time consuming a bare block plus machining is, I’m also contemplating an assembled short block. Don’t need a cam or timing set. Just a block with crank, rods and pistons, and cam bearings already installed.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
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Friday at 2:50 PM
#393
  • Friday at 2:50 PM
  • #393
JD1964 said:
More hindsight; the leak I was attempting to fix was small. So small I bet stop leak would have handled it.
Click to expand...
Untill BOOST, then up comes the head and that bolt and the gasket likely will leave the chat leaving a large mess and lots of embarrassment.
Be glad you cought it now.
 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
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Friday at 3:23 PM
#394
  • Friday at 3:23 PM
  • #394
General karthief said:
Untill BOOST, then up comes the head and that bolt and the gasket likely will leave the chat leaving a large mess and lots of embarrassment.
Be glad you cought it now.
Click to expand...
Within reasonable probability, you’re probably correct
 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
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Friday at 5:44 PM
#395
  • Friday at 5:44 PM
  • #395
Sorry darling but you’re going to be here a while

 
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AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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Friday at 6:27 PM
#396
  • Friday at 6:27 PM
  • #396
 
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JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
15 Year Member
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Friday at 7:00 PM
#397
  • Friday at 7:00 PM
  • #397
Free pick up at dealer? Hmmm

It sounds inviting to me if this means my local dealer. That would be convenient, especially if there was an issue requiring return.

https://www.ford.com/product/boss-302-engine-b-p2807016673?gmcid=marketplace-gs-cta-accessories
 
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JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
15 Year Member
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Saturday at 3:54 PM
#398
  • Saturday at 3:54 PM
  • #398
The big decision was hanging me up on progress but not anymore. One Ford Boss 302 bare block ordered! $2300 total with tax and delivered free to my local Ford dealership in 5 days.
 
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AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
Founding Member
Oct 28, 2001
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Claremore, OK
Sunday at 7:28 AM
#399
  • Sunday at 7:28 AM
  • #399
It’s a big ticket item but man you won’t worry about the block being a weak link anymore.
 
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FastDriver

I was uncomfortably high & wearing a helmet
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Sep 5, 2001
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Sunday at 7:56 AM
#400
  • Sunday at 7:56 AM
  • #400
Noobz347 said:
Bottom Line Up Front:
As the cars sits now, the tune is good and nothing is in the RED.



The passenger side side bank is learning to remove more fuel than the driver side for whatever reason.

It is at 68% of its learned fuel-removal allowance at that light-load operating point. It is removing 8.2% fuel under light load from a maximum learned fuel removal of 12.1%.

It could be for a number of reasons including something from the balance injector discussion from earlier in this post. It can also be a host of other things down to and including O2 sensor mismatch. Below is a list of things to check. Others might have some ideas as well.

The other clue is that the difference between banks got smaller as load increased.



In the warm, closed-loop cruise log, the median gap between the banks’ learned corrections decreased as raw load increased:
Raw loadDifference between banks
10–20%5.47 percentage points
20–30%3.13 points
30–40%1.56 points
40–50%0.78 points
The passenger bank was learning to remove more fuel than the driver bank.
These are differences in learned correction—not measured AFR differences. Above 50% load, both learned values tended toward 1.000, but that alone doesn’t establish equal fueling; those cells may have had little learning.



For now, leave the BIN unchanged and keep the car naturally aspirated. Work through these checks and note what you find.

  1. Save the current tune.
    Keep a copy of the exact BIN used for these logs. Record any changes made since loading the supplied file.
  2. Compare the wideband gauge with the log.
    At warm idle and a steady operating point, confirm the gauge and logged AFR agree. Confirm both measured and commanded AFR use the same gasoline AFR scale.
  3. Record the O₂ sensor history.
    Note their age, brand, part numbers if available, and whether both were replaced together.
  4. Inspect the O₂ wiring.
    Check connectors, damaged or heat-exposed wiring, and relevant grounds. Note anything different between the two sides.
  5. Check for exhaust leaks ahead of the O₂ sensors.
    Inspect header-to-head joints, collectors, and sensor fittings. Look for loose fasteners, soot marks, or ticking.
  6. Check for intake and vacuum leaks.
    A smoke test would help check intake joints, vacuum hoses, caps, PCV plumbing, and injector seals. Record the location of any leak before repairing it.
  7. Inspect plugs and ignition components.
    Keep the plugs identified by cylinder and compare their condition. Check plug wires and connections for damage or evidence of misfire.
  8. Confirm whether the bank difference repeats.
    Compare both banks after warmup at matching RPM and load. Preserve the existing logs and learned corrections before clearing codes or resetting memory.
  9. If the difference persists, isolate the cause.
    Compatible O₂ sensors can be swapped side to side to see whether the correction follows a sensor. If injector condition remains suspect, consider professional cleaning and flow testing, including operation at short pulse widths.
  10. Review the findings before changing fuel values.
    We want to resolve the roughly 12.30 commanded versus 12.8–13.1 measured WOT AFR, and understand the larger passenger-bank learned correction. Check fuel pressure if the findings point toward a delivery problem.
Oh... And for Gee Wiz... What bank is your wideband installed and where?



Additional Info I thought was relevant:


This is a comparison of your switching narrow band sensors against the wideband.
LogWideband AFR at passenger narrowband switchingAt driver narrowband switching
Warmup—warm portion14.66314.665
Cruise14.63014.628
Hot restart—closed loop14.63314.637

This tells me that your narrow band sensors are in pretty good agreement.



Comparison of clearly rich/lean readings during cruise:

  • Passenger narrowband and wideband agreed about 93% of the time.
  • Driver narrowband and wideband agreed about 77% of the time.
This leads me to believe that your wideband is on the Pass side.


If we can identify and reduce the difference between the banks, we’ll have a better foundation for global fuel adjustments, instead of choosing a compromise between the two.
Click to expand...
That's pretty slick. It's the kind of algorithm I want to write to do analysis and I want to capture data at every load and rpm bin, which is something I've written for the BS3. Then, the data is parsed so that whether accelerating, decelerating or at stable operation, it allows you to take ot all into account before adjusting each bin. What software are you using? Is this engine analyzer? I haven't learned to play with that, yet. Wouldn't put something custom past you, either...
 
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