New FRPP BOSS 302 block.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FMS-M6010BOSS302&autoview=sku
Supposed to be as strong as Dart without the high price.
thats still a pretty steep price lol
Killercanary said:From the research I did last year when I was building mine the world products block was good, but it was almost too beefy. It weighed more than the dart, and could potentially have header clearance issues with its extra material added to accommodate extra head bolt holes that I would never use. It was WAY overkill as the others could support all I ever planned to make and more.
I read too many mixed reviews on the R302 to make me comfortable with buying one. As ViperEd said, they required more machining too. There are MANY opinions on the ford sportsman block, most will say that its not much better than a stock production block, others stand by it and say its a great bang for the buck. IMO from everything I've read and heard, if you "think" you will need a new block to handle big power, don't half ass it with the sportsman block and just pony up for the dart/R302. The new boss block is too new yet to know how good it really is. If it lives up to the hype, it'll be a great option but after seeing all the hype that surrounded the ford sportsman block when it came out and how short it fell of its original claims, I'd opt to not be the guinea pig here and go with one of the tried and true blocks for the few hundred dollars difference there is between them.
I ended up buying a dart sportsman block. As was mentioned the sportsman block comes with 4 bolt mains on 2,3,4, and 2 bolt mains on the outer caps, the iron eagle has 4 bolts on all of the mains. The sportsman and iron eagle block are the exact same casting, its the machining that makes them different. The dart sportsman is machined to accept hydraulic lifters where the iron eagle is not. Since this is going in my street car and I have no intentions of spinning it beyond the limits of the hydraulic setup, this is the route I chose. The iron eagle also has a few differences in terms of oiling as well. Both are Siamese as was mentioned and can safely be bored to at least 4.125, although sonic testing has shown that some can go as high as 4.180"-4.200"
With the Scat 4340 forged internals, 4340 forged H beam rods with ARP 2000 rod bolts, forged pistons, and internally balanced rotating assembly my shortblock should be good into the 4 digit range in terms of power.
A few things that I have noticed with my block are that the bell housing holes tapped into the block are a little shallower than the stocker and I will be forced to either get new bolts or run washers, I also noticed this with my timing cover. Some have had issues with the oil pump shaft bottoming out between the dizzy and the oil pump even though the dart block is supposed to be made to production tolerances there. Mine was OK, but it had to be checked.
I got my block and rotating assembly from Kevin at http://www.kskustoms.com He was GREAT to work with and I definitely recommend him.
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