Blowing Fuses Like Paris Hilton

TripleBlack95 · May 7, 2006

I've had the same problem many times.

Once my clutch was changed it started blowing. Replaced with 20 - BLEW. Multiple times. The wires were kind of snagged and all out of place. I haven't retaped them because I totally forgot about it until now - but I threw a 30amp in it and has been perfect ever since. Yeah I know - way too big a fuse - but so far so good. I guess I'll have to fix the problem now that I'm reminded of it, lol.

5spd GT · May 8, 2006

Lol...30amp

So is there any problem to doing this? Let's hear you guys opinions...potential fire or something?

Grn92LX · May 8, 2006

5spd GT said:
Lol...30amp

So is there any problem to doing this? Let's hear you guys opinions...potential fire or something?

A fuse is designed to protect the circuit and electrical parts with in the circuit. If (for example) you blow a 20A fuse and don't have a replacement 20a fuse on hand you would NOT want to put a higher amp fuse in, you'd want to put in a 15a fuse (again, for example). Otherwise you risk damaging the parts with in the system.

5spd GT · May 8, 2006

It is kind of pointless to try 15amp fuse in a 20amp stock fuse, it will not hold. I'm just curious on what it could cause? A fire?

bimmertech · May 8, 2006

5spd GT said:
I'm just curious on what it could cause? A fire?

it will cause the shorted wire to start smoking--easy but expensive way to find the short.

intermittent fuse prob like this is most commonly an exposed wire rubbing on something.

Grn92LX · May 8, 2006

5spd GT said:
It is kind of pointless to try 15amp fuse in a 20amp stock fuse, it will not hold. I'm just curious on what it could cause? A fire?

No it isn't pointless. It is VERY stupid to put a higher amp fuse in place of where a lower amp fuse is needed. Its not like I know what i'm talking about, I only took a 5 year electrical apprenticeship training course If you have a problem popping fuses, don't be stupid and put higher amp fuses in, find the problem

But its your car, if you choose to jury rig it go ahead, its not my car.

5spd GT · May 8, 2006

Grn92LX said:
No it isn't pointless. It is VERY stupid to put a higher amp fuse in place of where a lower amp fuse is needed. Its not like I know what i'm talking about, I only took a 5 year electrical apprenticeship training course If you have a problem popping fuses, don't be stupid and put higher amp fuses in, find the problem

But its your car, if you choose to jury rig it go ahead, its not my car.

Grn92lx - You are having a problem understanding...

I never said it is going to be my permanent fix. Why assume?

I need this car's turn signals to work. Downtime is essential to schedule.

Of course you wouldn't know that since you have another car...

Frank.Rizzo · Feb 18, 2007

Update

Just saw this old post and wanted to let everyone know that, after going through five or six fuses, I replaced the 15amp fuse with a "resettable" 15amp fuse for troubleshooting purposes (and to save money on fuses!) as you guys suggested and the damn thing hasnt' blown once! So, while my fusebox cover won't fit now, I don't have fuses blowing out any more. Thanks again for all the help you guys. I hope my follow up helps someone else.

stebbi66 · May 20, 2007

Hi all.

I just found this thread. I am having the same problem with fuse #9 blowing on my 1994 Cobra. I have not been able to narrow the fault as the fuse may not short for an hour or two.

I will not deny having the thought of installing a 20 - 30amp fuse to see if that would solve the problem.

Has anyone been able to solve this problem without going to lager fuses?

Regards,
Stefan

droptopford 5 0 · May 20, 2007

5spd GT said:
Lol...30amp

So is there any problem to doing this? Let's hear you guys opinions...potential fire or something?

a single wire will probably burn up before it catches fire, but it is possible to start a fire this way. its like having a 500 hp motor with a stock t-5... you COULD get the most aggressive clutch and chance it, but it would be better to have a less aggressive clutch (stock fuse) and let it slip before you grenade your driveline basically theres no way of telling what could happen, but BIG problems could happen. the more i think of it, my dad actually did catch his 66' 289 hi-po GT on fire when he was in high school and had to have the entire car rewired(the entire harness) in 73' or 74' they towed the car to the mechanic with his friends 65 convertable mustang lol

HISSIN50 · May 20, 2007

Absolutely do NOT use a bigger fuse. Plain and simple. If one has to, rewire a circuit to circumvent the short, but don't just plop bigger fuses in.

This circuit does not have too many tributaries so it should be easy enough to trace.

Good luck.

hollywoodstang · May 20, 2007

I had similer problem and HISSIN5.0 helped me fix it. I kept blowing reverse and conv top fuse. soon as i put in reverse fuse pops. it turmed out to be my back up switch in trans. so may be you have problem in same area???

What do you think HISSIN5.0 you are good at elec...

HISSIN50 · May 21, 2007

hollywoodstang said:
I had similer problem and HISSIN5.0 helped me fix it. I kept blowing reverse and conv top fuse. soon as i put in reverse fuse pops. it turmed out to be my back up switch in trans. so may be you have problem in same area???

What do you think HISSIN5.0 you are good at elec...

Stefan didnt really provide enough info or I'd have taken some guesses myself. Hollywood, your thinking is right on track. If it was my car, I'd put a good fuse in. Then push the brake pedal repeatedly, trying to blow the fuse as Hollywood did in his testing (for his issue).
If the fuse refuses to blow, I would start using the flashers (but never hitting the brakes) and see if the fuse now blows.
This will help determine which part of the circuit is bad (if you can get the fuse to blow). Go from there.

Good luck Stefan.

droptopford 5 0 · May 21, 2007

i just kind of scanned the thread and from what i can gather , this might help... i had a similar problem, but it would blowevery now and then, then instantly rather after a while. all of my research compiled this: the multi switch, brake on/off switch, brake lights, cruise control, and turn signals are linked to the same fuse. if all things go at once than this is the same fuse as i am thonking of. i would remove the brake switch and see if it still blows with the signals and cruise. and similarly if you are testing the circuitry, know that the third brake light and other brake lights are wired in seperately from each other. since it is delayed, it makes me think that maybe you have a short somewhere where the wire case is barely worn through... my problem was that the wire leading from my brake on/off switch was getting pinched near where the clutch and brake assembly met the firewall... at first it only happened when i pressed hard on the brakes, but it eventually got worse and even a slight movement of that bracket would pop a fuse. this is just a bunch of crap that i hope helps you... if you have questions for this post i should be back on tomorrow. i have an macro-econ final tomorrow that i need an A on or else, hehe good luck brother, shorts are a real pain in the a$$ ALSO, remove the multi switch and test it with a multi tester, those are known to be finicky and can go at any time in FORDs
TMOSS gave me these which helped a lot... http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang-94-95-Exterior-Lighting.gif
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/#95-95Diagrams

stebbi66 · Jun 22, 2007

Hi again.

I still have fuse blowing problem, but I narrowd it a bit. Fuse #9 blows when I turn on the right turn signal. It is OK to turn on the left signal and the blinkers. I have tried disconnecting the right front and rear turn lights, but the fuse still blows when I turn on the signal. I have gone over the wire loom were it is visible and cleaned the earth connections, but the fuse keeps blowing. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Regards,
Stefan

HISSIN50 · Jun 22, 2007

stebbi66 said:
Hi again.

I still have fuse blowing problem, but I narrowd it a bit. Fuse #9 blows when I turn on the right turn signal. It is OK to turn on the left signal and the blinkers. I have tried disconnecting the right front and rear turn lights, but the fuse still blows when I turn on the signal. I have gone over the wire loom were it is visible and cleaned the earth connections, but the fuse keeps blowing. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Regards,
Stefan

Stefan, you might want to try and check continuity to ground in the right turn signal wiring. You should see infinitely high resistance but I bet you dont.

stebbi66 · Jun 22, 2007

Thank´s for the quick reply, I´ll get a hold of a multimeter and see how the wire measures, it is probably damaged somewhere out of reach.

Regards,
Stefan

Frank.Rizzo · Aug 14, 2008

Clarification . . .

I know this is an old thread but it looks like people keep going back to it, so I wanted to clarify that I did NOT replace the fuse with a larger fuse, just a resettable fuse.

The resettable fuse that I used was the same size (15 amp) as the original blue 15 amp fuse, but it has a push button on the top of the fuse that actually resets it when it blows. This saves time and money because you are not constantly replacing fuses, just pushing a reset button.

In my situation, for some reason, replacing the fuse with a resettable fuse never allowed me to troubleshoot the problem, as the fuse never blew again, even though it was the same size! Nobody should be throwing in a larger fuse to solve a blown fuse problem as this could be a huge safety concern and may cost you more money down the road if you have an electrical fire or something.

Anyway, it is a great idea for troubleshooting and I wanted to thank everyone again for their assistance!

BlackVert · Aug 15, 2008

hm... i thought paris hilton blew something else!

strokerstang408 · Aug 15, 2008

find shorts

Just to let everyone know another rather easy way of finding a short is to use a 12 volt test light. Undo the negative terminal at the battery and put the test light between the post and the terminal, when a short is pressent the light will illuminate by completing the curcuit (through the short). While the light is on, start unplugging stuff that relates to the fuse being blown, this also works if you put the testlight between the fuse lugs in place of the fuse, when the short is disconnected/dislodged the testlight will go out. Make sure that the radio memory fuse is out and remove dome light(s) or close the door and disconnect anything that draws current(cell charger, theft/car alarm, ect.) as these will complete the curcuit by drawing current. Try removing bulbs, unplugging harnesses to get you in the neighborhood of the problem then you can have an idea what to look for (chaffed/pinched/explosed wires), sometimes just wiggling the stuff makes the testlight go out. The only drawback to this test is being able to see the light, you might have someone look while you unplug or as I did I made a homemade tester with a pigtail & bulb wired to a length of wire with alligator clips on the ends. Just place the bulb where you can see it and get after it!

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