Blown engine...Suggestions?

SADL-UP · Apr 8, 2007

Hi Fellas,

A short intro:
Long time reader, first time poster here. I am located in Massachusetts and drive a 2004 Mustang Gt 5 speed.

Well, it was a beautiful spring day and I decided to take the stang for a spin. I had just washed and detailed the car and refilled the nitrous bottle. All systems were go! Off we go and after driving through town and waiting at a few traffic lights I wanted to get on the highway and open her up. I glanced over at the nitrous pressure gauge and saw 950 psi...perfect! I gave a few short purges and turned onto the on ramp. I let it rip in second, third and fourth with minimal traction - what a rush! I quickly got into fifth gear and at about 5K rpm....snap! rattle, rattle, rattle. WTF! I knew instantly that the little 4.6 had thrown a rod. The engine was dead and would not restart. (No, I hadn't had the car tuned yet. Stupid, I know, I know .)I coasted to the next exit and was able to pull over to wait for a tow. The car now sits at the dealership awaiting repair. It is still under warranty but I highly doubt that Ford will cover the consequences of a 125 shot of NOS.

So, that brings you all to this point. I t looks like a have a few options. I can have ford rebuild the engine and machine work and installation, etc. probably for a reasonably amount of money. Or, i can have the engine rebuilt with forged goodies for probably twice the amount as the stock internals.

I was curious to see who has been down this road before and your experiences. Did you do a stock rebuild or upgrade. If you upgraded, what did you use for parts? A stroker kit? forged pistons and rods? How long did it take to do and how much did you have to shell out for the services, parts, etc. Thanks in advance for any help.

Dave.

SaleenGT2001 · Apr 8, 2007

first thing you should do is get it away from the dealer. your repairs will NOT be covered under warranty. the second thing is that a 4.6 from ford will actually cost about as much as a forged one. find a local speed shop and talk to them.

from VT engines
GT sportsman w/ forged rod $3495
GT pro w/ billet rod $3995
those are for the shortblock, assuming your heads are ok that should be all you need.

oh yea, get a tune!!!!

slow3gt · Apr 8, 2007

if your low on money try to find a used motor a few weeks ago in the local traders post i saw a 4.6 w/41k out of an 02 gt w/transmission for $1900obo

trinity_gt · Apr 8, 2007

5th gear and 5000RPM? How fast were you going??

Mike97gt · Apr 8, 2007

I would go with a good forged motor.. The RMP replacement the dealer will sell you is not a good choice for a nitrous car.

If the dealer is reasonable about the install price you can have them install a forged motor you buy elsewhere.

jivepepper · Apr 8, 2007

MMR mod 900 for 2799. I got mine with the cyro oil pump gears notched pistons and upgraded arp main bolts. Shipped from CA to WV for a total of 3200.

saleen556 · Apr 8, 2007

I busted a rod at the track and went with the VT sportsman forged SB. Cost me $3250 shipped with all the upgrades. Definetley get away from the dealer and get a built motor.

jivepepper · Apr 8, 2007

saleen556 said:
I busted a rod at the track and went with the VT sportsman forged SB. Cost me $3250 shipped with all the upgrades. Definetley get away from the dealer and get a built motor.

MMR 900 is a stronger SB than the sportsman and the sportsman usually cost 3495 before shipping with no upgrades. 300 of mine was in shipping. The vt sports is rated to 750 and 7000 rpm and the mod 900 is rated at 900 and 8000rpm. For 3599 you can get the MMR MOD 1100

But I do feel VT is one of the best shops in the country, but I also feel MMR is too.

stanggt00 · Apr 9, 2007

i just got a brand new 4.6l motor from mmr for about 3400 shipped

as much as i wanted to do the shortblock thing i could not find a good ship to do the install with out costing me an arm and a leg

so i had the motor installed for about 750 bucks i am now braking the motor in once i hit the 500 mark i will be putting the vortech back on her

but by all means get your car a way from the dealer for a new motor from ford they were asking for 5k

all i could think is why the hell did i even call them

i just have to much going on money wise to do the shortblock thing right now

so i am going for an mph long block with blower cams for mid next year

saleen556 · Apr 9, 2007

jivepepper said:
MMR 900 is a stronger SB than the sportsman and the sportsman usually cost 3495 before shipping with no upgrades. 300 of mine was in shipping. The vt sports is rated to 750 and 7000 rpm and the mod 900 is rated at 900 and 8000rpm. For 3599 you can get the MMR MOD 1100

But I do feel VT is one of the best shops in the country, but I also feel MMR is too.

Vt is rating at the wheels and MMR is rating at the crank. They are using similar parts so they are probably pretty close in comparison. I spoke to scott about pushing mine past 700rwhp and he said it's been done but he doesn't like to push them to the limit. I don't think you can go wrong with either company.

jivepepper · Apr 9, 2007

saleen556 said:
Vt is rating at the wheels and MMR is rating at the crank. They are using similar parts so they are probably pretty close in comparison. I spoke to scott about pushing mine past 700rwhp and he said it's been done but he doesn't like to push them to the limit. I don't think you can go wrong with either company.

From what I understand the pistons and the rods are the same. Also mark says he has a couple cars with the mmr 900in the 800's. But like I said both are great buys.

SADL-UP · Apr 9, 2007

Thanks for all of the responses so far!

here is an update: Just for gits and shiggles, I asked the dealership for a quote to replace the engine...$4600 for a remanufactured engine and labor but with no warranty (because of the NOS). That forged short block is looking pretty appealing right now. I will keep you posted!

the98stang · Apr 9, 2007

jivepepper said:
MMR mod 900 for 2799. I got mine with the cyro oil pump gears notched pistons and upgraded arp main bolts. Shipped from CA to WV for a total of 3200.

^^^very nice shortblock for the money! That's what I would buy....

BlackenedSVT · Apr 9, 2007

wow... i dont normally make a habbit of kicking people while their down...

but i have to say that is a series of some of the stupidest things i've read in a long time. 5th gear @ ~5k RPM...how fast were you going? Thats probably close to 140mph, i'll leave that alone and just say you're lucky you didn't die after u're engine blew, and i'll go on to say nice job maxing your motor out on nitrous without a tune.

Must be nice to have money....

on a more friendly note, I will say that since you're replacing the engine. The ONLY thing you should be thinking about is a replacement 4v motor. I'd be calling VT engines or MPH and have them cook up something rediculous for you

Dragstr05 · Apr 9, 2007

SteedaGTJ22 said:
wow... i dont normally make a habbit of kicking people while their down...

but i have to say that is a series of some of the stupidest things i've read in a long time. 5th gear @ ~5k RPM...how fast were you going? Thats probably close to 140mph, i'll leave that alone and just say you're lucky you didn't die after u're engine blew

Unless he has gears, 5th gear @ 5k is waaay past 140mph...

Running it without a tune is plain stupid. Thats just asking for it to blow. Running it at 5k in overdrive (5th) was probably just icing(sp?) on the cake. Overdrive = higher load on the engine.

SADL-UP · Apr 9, 2007

SteedaGTJ22 said:
wow... i dont normally make a habbit of kicking people while their down...

but i have to say that is a series of some of the stupidest things i've read in a long time. 5th gear @ ~5k RPM...how fast were you going? Thats probably close to 140mph, i'll leave that alone and just say you're lucky you didn't die after u're engine blew, and i'll go on to say nice job maxing your motor out on nitrous without a tune.

Wow, thats quite the warm welcome for the new guy, thanks!

SADL-UP · Apr 9, 2007

Just so everyone is on the same page, I was running the NOS 05116 Dry kit with 125 shot. For those not familiar with the kit, it is supposed to run with the stock motor - no tune required. My setup includes FPSS, window switch, WOT switch, 2002 GT fuel rails (for schrader fitting), Purge, bottle warmer, N20 pressure gauge, 2 step colder plugs gapped at 0.030" and 93 octane fuel.

I am also running 4.30s in the rear end, so no, I was not doing 140!

I will say that i appreciate all of the help on this forum so far. As for you that wish to insult me or not add anything positive to the post, please send me a private message and I would be happy to discuss.

BurningRubber · Apr 9, 2007

Well, im really not trying to be an ass here but 125 is a big shot for a dry shot to begin with. 2nd, no fuel system upgrades leaves you short in that department. 3rd, regardless of it says "no tune needed" your engine is a time bomb on a 125 dry shot without and type of fuel compensation or tune. I imagine the engine went very lean and it toasted.

Like I said, not trying to make matters worse or anything but definatly take the time and upgrade the fuel system just a tad and get er tuned in with the new motor.

On the bright side, 4:30's and nitrous probaly made for a hell of a ride man!!! I bet when it blew you had a smile on your face, lol.

SADL-UP · Apr 9, 2007

BurningRubber said:
On the bright side, 4:30's and nitrous probaly made for a hell of a ride man!!! I bet when it blew you had a smile on your face, lol.

You are spot on! I can't say that it was really worth all of the frustration since, but damn it was fun while it lasted. lol.

4.6andSlicks · Apr 9, 2007

Sorry to hear that SADL. It hurts to even read this seeing I plan to add a Nitrous kit (wet) 100 shot to my '01 Cobra. I couldn't imagine how I would feel if I toasted it. Anyone here feel a Wideband O2 sensor looking you in the face would have made a difference in this case?

Blown engine...Suggestions?

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