I could have sworn the ones I bought said pre flattened steel ring, but when I looked them up last night all I saw was copper ones. Been a few years since I did this last so I don't remember.
Blown Head Gasket.
- Thread starter Edster
- Start date
Very important that you use a cleanup tap rather then a cuting tap. The cleanup tap will clean the threads out without removing excess material and weakening the threads.
bartl
Active Member
New bolts, motor oil for lube, no sealant, basic FelPro gasket set and FIX THE PROBLEM that caused the gasket to blow the last time.
If you like studs by all means use them, but don't expect to get the heads on or off with the engine in the car.
If you like studs by all means use them, but don't expect to get the heads on or off with the engine in the car.
a clean up tap is also known as a bottoming tap. the difference being that a starting tap has a tapered point to start the thread cut, where as a bottoming tap has no taper.
The block is a 72, the head-bolts came w/ it. The heads are a 70. I'm wondering if I need to get those special wasers that allow the 7/16 bolt to fit the 1/2 hole tighter. I didn't use them be fore and the head gasket lasted 20yrs but not a constant 20 yrs of use. More like I would have to get the car runnin every-time I came on leave every few years or so. Since I've retired from the Navy (07) I've spent more time driving the car. I reckon i blew the head gasket when I tried to start and run the engine with the dizzy off one tooth
. Better break in the garge than on the road. Who knows that gasket coulda lasted another decade.
horse sence
15 Year Member
heck 20 years use would be great for me,these older motors running the lower gears ,with transmitions with only three speeds didnt usualy see any were near the miles the new cars see , 60 000 without a rebuild was good ,my 2001 f150 has 200500 miles on it now and runs like a top i used to buy mustangs with only 40000
miles and the motors were completly worn out .just a head gasket in 20 years ,i would be happy with that ,double check the torque on the bolts when you replace them and go for a nother 20 ,you have to rember the older motors had higher compression as well wich takes a toll on parts as well
miles and the motors were completly worn out .just a head gasket in 20 years ,i would be happy with that ,double check the torque on the bolts when you replace them and go for a nother 20 ,you have to rember the older motors had higher compression as well wich takes a toll on parts as well
If your heads have the larger stud hole in them they might be 351w heads instead of 302 heads which is just fine. I would use the proper bolt kit. Either get a bolt kit that fits the block you have and uses bushings or tap the block out to the larger shank size and use the larger bolt kit.
horse sence
15 Year Member
look on top of the heads by the valve springs ,it should have cast in the head
289, 302 ,302 4v or 351 i would say they are more lickly 351 if they have the larger bolt hole the date casting will tell you the year starting with c7 for 67 ,c8 for 68
c9 for 69 ,or do for 70 ,the c9 or 69 is the beter 351 head
289, 302 ,302 4v or 351 i would say they are more lickly 351 if they have the larger bolt hole the date casting will tell you the year starting with c7 for 67 ,c8 for 68
c9 for 69 ,or do for 70 ,the c9 or 69 is the beter 351 head
I knew the heads were 351W when I put them on... D0OE, pocket porting on the intake, silicon bronze valve guides and a full port job on the exhaust. Yours truly in his early twenties thought he knew a thing or two and bell mouthed the intake ports where they mate to the intake.
Back then they didn't have washers w/ the sleeve on them. And I don't think that you could've gotten the special bolts that FoMoCo made for the swap. So we just bronze valve guides machined washers under the bolts and relied solely on the dowel pins. I ran the engine hard back then ( I had a 64 Falcon at the time and swapped the engine over to da 'Stangin 96) and didn't have any head gasket woes.
Back then they didn't have washers w/ the sleeve on them. And I don't think that you could've gotten the special bolts that FoMoCo made for the swap. So we just bronze valve guides machined washers under the bolts and relied solely on the dowel pins. I ran the engine hard back then ( I had a 64 Falcon at the time and swapped the engine over to da 'Stangin 96) and didn't have any head gasket woes.
