Blown head gaskets :) need a quick answer

Yellow302 · Nov 8, 2007

So i blew about every cylidar coolant port into the chamers and into the oil valley

Question, I bought felpro 1011-2 gaskets and the coolant passages are small pin holes instead of matching the ports on the block and head.

Should I open them up to match?

The front ports are also sealed off, should i leave them this way or open them up too? Ive read to leave them closed to have proper flow?

5spd GT · Nov 8, 2007

Leave all the holes as they are. The small holes regulate the amount of coolant into the block from the radiator.

The front two "big holes" in the block need to be blocked. This allows the coolant to run to the back of the head and drop-in the block, and make it's way up front.

Long story short, do not trim anything

Make sure the front (radiator side) coolant ports are the blocked side.

speedytang · Nov 8, 2007

Just make sure the gaskets say FRONT facing the front of the motor and don't try turning the gaskets to match the block holes.

Yellow302 · Nov 8, 2007

thats what i did last time, coolant system got pressurized and blew **** everywhere...

Im using new ARP studs with stock e7 heads, what should i torque upper/lowers to and should i re torque them after a few heat cycles.

PUNISHER RACING · Nov 8, 2007

use the chart on the ARP box it depends on if you are usin moly lube or motor oil on threads and use teflon sealer on bottm studs they have a tendency to weep coolant. do not retorque afterwards, and make sure front of gaskets is on the front

Yellow302 · Nov 9, 2007

teflon tape?

Thread sealer?

I have both which should i use?

SQUEEZE&STROKE · Nov 9, 2007

Sealer

5spd GT · Nov 9, 2007

Thread sealer in my opinion.

Yellow302 · Nov 9, 2007

7/16 stud
7/16-14
7/16-20

I have studs

there are 3 tinsile strenght

170000/180000

190000/200000

220000

i dont know which one i have but they are 3 different torque readings

OrangeMustangGt · Nov 10, 2007

I believe you will blow those again if you are running boost. I went through this. If your running boost, keep this post for the next change.

For me, after 4 sets I got it perfect.

Arp studs, 90 ftlbs bottom, 95 tops.....with red loctite...I use grey RTV on the bottom studs...but each his own

Felpro MLS gaskets sprayed with copper spray from autozone.

you WILL be happy with this setup....I even got knock and they held.

I would torque your paper gaskets the same

Rick 91GT · Nov 10, 2007

Yours aare 190000/200000

I agree with above with ARP studs, black RTV on the bottom 90, ARP moly on the uppers 95. Make sure you put the ARP moly on the heads where the washer sits, and a little on the studs/nuts so you achieve proper tq. Tq in the proper sequence 3 times, 50, 75, then final tq. I recommed new head dowels as well, and check the heads to make sure they are not warped more then .004" since you have been having issues.

If they are blowing towards the intake it sounds like you are getting some lift...

I prefer the 1011-1 with the stainless fire ring even with an alum head, I have never had issues with anealing on the head due to the stiff fire ring.

Yellow302 · Nov 10, 2007

I have this strength 170000/180000

on the back of the box it says to torque to 71 upper and lower, should i torque it down more?

5spd GT · Nov 10, 2007

Hi Rick,

Why do you recommend Black RTV on the bottom instead of ARP thread sealer specific to the bolts?

Thanks...

Yellow302 · Nov 10, 2007

5spd GT said:
Hi Rick,

Why do you recommend Black RTV on the bottom instead of ARP thread sealer specific to the bolts?

Thanks...

I used the sealer on mine, currently done havent started the car yet. Torqued heads to 71 pounds not 95

You think its ok if i heat cycle the car a few times before re torquing or should i do it before i start the car?

5spd GT · Nov 10, 2007

Do not worry about retorqueing head bolts/studs, just the intake bolts

For boost, I am not sure. Someone like Rick would be the guy to listen too, as he has built MANY boosted combinations.

TheDamned · Nov 10, 2007

1st time I see someone quite happy about a blown headgasket :o

Rick 91GT · Nov 11, 2007

The ARP specs are giving you TQ numbers for 80% of the fastner strength, on combos with heavy cylinder pressures many increase the load. It is also very common to tq the uppers 5-8 more on those combos. I honestly have never re-torqued head bolts or studs after a heat cycle, but intake bolts are a must.

David, I am a die hard ARP user, their fasteners, their moly and up to some point 2 years ago their teflon thread sealer. I had 2 consectutive customers cars have small seaps in the lower studs. I blamed on on a bad tube of sealer and bought more, again to only have a seaping head stud. I called ARP and had a long talk with one of the best tech service guys I have ever talked with at ARP. Due to the many variables with the block (even after running a cleaning tap and brush) threads, and the bolts (which are very accurate) it is possible for fluid to travel up the threads passed the non-hardening teflon ARP sealer. I was told to use RTV by the ARP tech, tq to the same specs as the teflon. I also make it a good practice to take some fine emory and knock off the sharp edge of the ARP threads, and clean the protective lube off the threads before I install anything. Ever since the switch I never had a leak.... I still use there teflon on other places, I actually put a very small amount on the intake bolts it helps with the backing off, even though they tell you not to put anything. The thing to remember is the ARP teflon in NON HARDENING, some of the other TFE based sealers are Hardening.

Rick 91GT · Nov 11, 2007

Yellow302 said:
I used the sealer on mine, currently done havent started the car yet. Torqued heads to 71 pounds not 95

You think its ok if i heat cycle the car a few times before re torquing or should i do it before i start the car?

If you used the ARP sealer you can retq them, if you used another brand you can retq them as long as it is NON HARDENDING. I would go 75 on the lower, 80 on the upper. You are using the proper tq sequence right, in to out.

FWIW- I have run stock replacement 8548 PT2 head gaskets, with advertised ARP tq specs and 26psi of boost....it is all in the tune.

Yellow302 · Nov 11, 2007

i used the proper tq sequence inside botom then up then out to the sides. I used arp sealer, kept everything arp so there were no mix ups.

So should i tq them to 80/75 or 95/90?? Ill be running about 10 psi currently.

Yellow302 · Nov 11, 2007

Yellow302 said:
i used the proper tq sequence inside botom then up then out to the sides. I used arp sealer, kept everything arp so there were no mix ups.

So should i tq them to 80/75 or 95/90?? Ill be running about 10 psi currently.

Im assuming to go with 80/75 based on the strenth of 170000, which originaly you thought i had the 190000/200000 which you said to go to 95/90 with which would be a little more than the back of the box said as well.

Ill start tearing it down again

O and for being happy about blown headgaskits, my car was running like crap for 2 months and wasnt showing signs of a head gaskit untill very very late. So finding the problem is why im happy, and i dont mind putting in the wrench time.

Thanks for all the support with this reinstall.

Blown head gaskets :) need a quick answer

Yellow302

Member

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"

speedytang

Yellow302

Member

PUNISHER RACING

Active Member

Yellow302

Member

SQUEEZE&STROKE

New Member

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"

Yellow302

Member

OrangeMustangGt

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master

Yellow302

Member

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"

Yellow302

Member

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"

TheDamned

"I am Canadian and Damned for it!"

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master

Yellow302

Member

Yellow302

Member

Similar threads

Blown head gaskets :) need a quick answer

Member

"the 5.0 owns all"

Member

Active Member

Member

New Member

"the 5.0 owns all"

Member

Mustang Master

Member

"the 5.0 owns all"

Member

"the 5.0 owns all"

"I am Canadian and Damned for it!"

Mustang Master

Mustang Master

Member

Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency