The ARP specs are giving you TQ numbers for 80% of the fastner strength, on combos with heavy cylinder pressures many increase the load. It is also very common to tq the uppers 5-8 more on those combos. I honestly have never re-torqued head bolts or studs after a heat cycle, but intake bolts are a must.
David, I am a die hard ARP user, their fasteners, their moly and up to some point 2 years ago their teflon thread sealer. I had 2 consectutive customers cars have small seaps in the lower studs. I blamed on on a bad tube of sealer and bought more, again to only have a seaping head stud. I called ARP and had a long talk with one of the best tech service guys I have ever talked with at ARP. Due to the many variables with the block (even after running a cleaning tap and brush) threads, and the bolts (which are very accurate) it is possible for fluid to travel up the threads passed the non-hardening teflon ARP sealer. I was told to use RTV by the ARP tech, tq to the same specs as the teflon. I also make it a good practice to take some fine emory and knock off the sharp edge of the ARP threads, and clean the protective lube off the threads before I install anything. Ever since the switch I never had a leak.... I still use there teflon on other places, I actually put a very small amount on the intake bolts it helps with the backing off, even though they tell you not to put anything. The thing to remember is the ARP teflon in NON HARDENING, some of the other TFE based sealers are Hardening.
