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BMR LCA Installation Help

  • Thread starter Thread starter Szlachcic
  • Start date Start date Apr 4, 2006

Szlachcic

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
168
0
0
Raleigh, NC
Apr 4, 2006
#1
  • Apr 4, 2006
  • #1
I am trying to install the BMR lower control arms and in the instructions it says that I have to unhook the brake cable. Does this mean I have to bleed the brakes and if so is there any way around it. If I do have to bleed the brakes, could anybody supply me with a step-by-step process to do so. If I don't have to bleed the brakes, then do I have to cap off the brake line or what? Thanks.
 

Szlachcic

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
168
0
0
Raleigh, NC
Apr 4, 2006
#2
  • Apr 4, 2006
  • #2
Ok, I tried the installation and found out that the instructions are woefully inadequate in describing the steps to a beginner. It says something about prying the brake line off with a small screwdriver, yet nothing back there will even budge a bit. I took some pictures of the area in question in hopes that someone would be able to help me figure out my problem.

This first shot has the area where I think you pry the brake line out of. The circled area is shown better in the second shot and consists of the line and then some sort of cap that I assume is the part that you are supposed to pry up.


The next shot is the circled section from the first shot except from a different angle and closer up to give a better idea of how the line connects to the bracket.


Does anyone know how to remove the line?
 

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8850

Founding Member
Jun 3, 2000
464
0
16
TX
Apr 4, 2006
#3
  • Apr 4, 2006
  • #3
Did you get it figured out? I would like to know myself. I have a set of LCAs I plan to put on soon.
 

Szlachcic

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
168
0
0
Raleigh, NC
Apr 4, 2006
#4
  • Apr 4, 2006
  • #4
Nope, I had to go get my girlfriend so I had to wrap everything up and get the wheels back on, lol. I just can't figure out what to do since the instructions are so vague. I am hoping to get some gears installed this weekend so maybe I will puss out and pay for them to install the LCAs as well, but I hate to do that with something that seems so easy to install.
 
8

8850

Founding Member
Jun 3, 2000
464
0
16
TX
Apr 5, 2006
#5
  • Apr 5, 2006
  • #5
I suppose you could use your saw and cut a slot in the factory lower control arm so the line would come out. It would ruin the factory control arms but you will probably end up trashing them anyway.
 

Szlachcic

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
168
0
0
Raleigh, NC
Apr 5, 2006
#6
  • Apr 5, 2006
  • #6
Thats true, since I very highly doubt I would ever use them again. Maybe I will do that.
 

05 GT Stang

Member
Apr 6, 2005
67
0
6
Apr 5, 2006
#7
  • Apr 5, 2006
  • #7
this may/or may not help

The part where it says pull up and out, i'm refering to the hammer (end of cable)

a picture is worth a thousand words

View attachment 479284
 

Szlachcic

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
168
0
0
Raleigh, NC
Apr 5, 2006
#8
  • Apr 5, 2006
  • #8
Your diagram is basically what I tried to do. But to clarify, do I slide the hose out first and then pull the hammer up or is it the other way around? Also, what do you recommend using to aid in this process?

I just noticed you said to make sure the ebrake is released. This may have been my problem. Doesn't it make it dangerous to have the car jacked up without the ebrake on? I am only jacking up the back, but I am not really sure if the ebrake brakes in the front or the back. If someone could clarify this and give me some safety tips then that would be appreciated as well.
 

jlisle01

New Member
Dec 29, 2004
250
1
0
McAlester,OK
Apr 5, 2006
#9
  • Apr 5, 2006
  • #9
You are not disconecting the fluid brake line, what you have to disconect is the parking brake cable. It's similar to a bicycle cable. You will need to chock a wheel (for safety) and put the car on jackstands. I personally would not do anything like this install without jackstands. once the parking brake is released the cable will disconnect easily.
 

Szlachcic

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
168
0
0
Raleigh, NC
Apr 6, 2006
#10
  • Apr 6, 2006
  • #10
jlisle01 said:
You are not disconecting the fluid brake line, what you have to disconect is the parking brake cable. It's similar to a bicycle cable. You will need to chock a wheel (for safety) and put the car on jackstands. I personally would not do anything like this install without jackstands. once the parking brake is released the cable will disconnect easily.
Click to expand...

Yes, I understand that it is the parking brake line now that 05 GT Stang clarified. I was doing the install on jackstands, and next time I do it (hopefully saturday) I will chock a wheel like you said. Thanks for the help everyone.
 

Bags2005

New Member
Aug 13, 2005
19
0
0
Davis, CA
Apr 6, 2006
#11
  • Apr 6, 2006
  • #11
I only know mustangs, but I can confidently say that the e-brake on most if not all mustang activates rear brakes only, not the front brakes. When jacking up your car always block at least one wheel, I usually do two. Be Safe, ride fast - Ryan
 

Szlachcic

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
168
0
0
Raleigh, NC
Apr 8, 2006
#12
  • Apr 8, 2006
  • #12
I finally completed the install yesterday in a little over an hour. Here is a pic of the new LCAs on the car.



Some tips I would like to share about the installation.
1) As 05 GT Stang said, make sure you have the e-brake disengaged, this made it a TON easier.

2) Do not listen to the instructions and do one side at a time. Unless your axle doesn't move at all when taking off the stock LCAs then your aftermarket ones won't line up. I ran into this problem and ended up taking both sides of so that we could line the holes up easily.

3) A rubber mallet is a great help.
 

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stang_1320

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
39
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0
Odessa, Texas
Apr 8, 2006
#13
  • Apr 8, 2006
  • #13
nice install...

but im curious if its necessary to zip tie the brake lines to the control arms like u did? if it is i need to do the same to my mmr control arms.
 

zgarske1038

Member
Dec 7, 2003
222
0
17
Hilton Head Island, South Carolina
Apr 8, 2006
#14
  • Apr 8, 2006
  • #14
stang_1320 said:
but im curious if its necessary to zip tie the brake lines to the control arms like u did? if it is i need to do the same to my mmr control arms.
Click to expand...

unless you want them to get snagged or wear on something i suggest you do it
 

Szlachcic

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
168
0
0
Raleigh, NC
Apr 8, 2006
#15
  • Apr 8, 2006
  • #15
stang_1320 said:
but im curious if its necessary to zip tie the brake lines to the control arms like u did? if it is i need to do the same to my mmr control arms.
Click to expand...

The instructions said to so I did. It is not like you can see the zip ties when the wheel is on and like zgarske1038 said, I would do it so the line doesn't snag.
 

bigcat

start with the upper hole, and if more traction is
May 1, 2005
3,015
1
79
7200 feet
Apr 8, 2006
#16
  • Apr 8, 2006
  • #16
thats the downfall of most LCAs on the market now, they have no provision for the e-brake cables. the powerhouse CHS LCAs have a bracket built in for the cables.
 
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