Body dipping

67 GTA · Aug 25, 2006

I am planning a trip to American Metal Cleaning INC. in Ohio soon to have my fastback dipped and e-coated once I get all the cutting and welding done. They use a non caustic (non acidic) chemical that will remove everything for about the same price. They recommended a company just down the road that e-coats most of the cars they strip. They have other locations. I think there was one in Canada. I'm not sure about California. Here is thier link: http://www.americanmetalcleaninginc.com/pages/818545/index.htm

I forgot, they rinse the parts after they strip them to remove any chemical left behind.

Evolution · Aug 25, 2006

67 GTA said:
I am planning a trip to American Metal Cleaning INC. in Ohio soon to have my fastback dipped and e-coated once I get all the cutting and welding done.

DId they quote you a price on the Dip, what about the Ecoat? I was quoted $1200 to get the car dipped, then another $200 to have it baked to dry out any residual liquid.

Thanks...Mike

67 GTA · Aug 25, 2006

For my 67 they qouted 1500-1700 for the shell. That was dipped, rinsed, and they dip it in a rust preventative. The e-coating company said 1000. So for about 3000 I will have a completely rust free car with e-coating in every nook and cranny. I checked into sandblasting, but you can't get the rust from inside the places you can't see like the rocker panels or sub-frame rails. Also if you have a car dipped and not e-coated, you can't get any paint on these areas.

1320stang · Aug 25, 2006

Hack said:
I don't like the texture that sand blasting leaves. I think the particles are too big or too heavy (dense), so more work would be required to smooth out the texture. I had some small parts sand blasted, and I wouldn't do it again.

If you use regular play sand, it does leave a pretty course texture, my neighbor uses 'sugar' sand, which looks like the fine white sand they used put in those black stand up ashtrays in hotel entrances. It leaves a much nicer surface. You really have to go to a supplier to get the right stuff. They have stuff that has red garnet in it (think sandpaper) and some other stuff that I think is called Black Magic that is coal dust or something. They can also do mixes and you can buy ground Walnut shells there.

As far as soda blasting, it's not Arm & Hammer out of the box (although Arm & Hammer makes soda for blasting). It's more like crystalized balls of soda that explode when it hits the metal. It'll take paint off, but leaves bondo, doesn't hurt fiberglass, chrome trim or glass, and it also leaves rust. You don't use it over either. Dry ice doesn't work well on rust either. I'm told that the soda can be used in a regular sand blaster, but it works much better with specialized equipment. I have a friend that has a soda setup.

Hack · Aug 26, 2006

1320stang said:
If you use regular play sand, it does leave a pretty course texture, my neighbor uses 'sugar' sand, which looks like the fine white sand they used put in those black stand up ashtrays in hotel entrances. It leaves a much nicer surface. You really have to go to a supplier to get the right stuff. They have stuff that has red garnet in it (think sandpaper) and some other stuff that I think is called Black Magic that is coal dust or something. They can also do mixes and you can buy ground Walnut shells there.

As far as soda blasting, it's not Arm & Hammer out of the box (although Arm & Hammer makes soda for blasting). It's more like crystalized balls of soda that explode when it hits the metal. It'll take paint off, but leaves bondo, doesn't hurt fiberglass, chrome trim or glass, and it also leaves rust. You don't use it over either. Dry ice doesn't work well on rust either. I'm told that the soda can be used in a regular sand blaster, but it works much better with specialized equipment. I have a friend that has a soda setup.

That makes sense. You want to pay to go to an expert who knows cars. I think the place I went to does a decent job, but I want to find a car guy who would be upset if he messed up my car.

I think the same is true of chemical dipping. If it's done right and the residue is all neutralized, I would think it's hard to beat.

1320stang · Aug 26, 2006

Yeah, but it's too hard to neutralize if it wicks between pieces of sheet metal. I don't think you could EVER get it all neutralized or out, but that would depend on the constuction of the vehicle.

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