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Body work help! let the fun begin!

  • Thread starter Thread starter projectfiveo
  • Start date Start date Dec 29, 2009
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projectfiveo

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#1
  • Dec 29, 2009
  • #1
ok im getting ready to start my project, this week im picking up a 90 gt striping it completly down and sanding it down to metal inside and out, also filling in holes in engine bay. my question is what kinda sander do i need to but to sand down to bare metal? after i get engine bay holes filled what do you reccomend spraying over it?
 
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projectfiveo

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#2
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also what is needed to polish the welds in engine bay? sorry im a noob at this?
 

tannerc91gt

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point
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Dec 29, 2009
#3
  • Dec 29, 2009
  • #3
Seems like a really big undertaking for a "noob".

I hope you don't plan on being done any time soon. I'm all for learning by doing though, so take you're time and good look.

Buy a DA
 

apollo12

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port st.lucie fla
Dec 29, 2009
#4
  • Dec 29, 2009
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Your taking on one hell of a project! lets see some before and after pics
 

4eyeGT5.0Ho

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#5
  • Dec 29, 2009
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ya before and after pics would be cool good luck man i hope it all works out great and out learn alot
 
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projectfiveo

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Thanks guys. Yea it's going to take me a long time to complete but it will be a brand new car when I'm done.
 

1987stangman

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#7
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projectfiveo said:
ok im getting ready to start my project, this week im picking up a 90 gt striping it completly down and sanding it down to metal inside and out, also filling in holes in engine bay. my question is what kinda sander do i need to but to sand down to bare metal? after i get engine bay holes filled what do you reccomend spraying over it?
Click to expand...

I could sit here all day and explain basic body work stuff, best thing you could do at this point is go to a book store and buy a couple books on body work and how to paint. Thats what I did about 5 years ago and combine that with doing the work yourself is the best practice.

Good luck.
 

MAC'n89Blckstng

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Jun 11, 2003
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Dec 29, 2009
#8
  • Dec 29, 2009
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Just to start off, there really isn't any need to strip the inside of the car to bare metal. Thats just a little excessive for a fox. I've done it on full rotisserie restorations but foxes are new enough that you dont really have to worry about doing that type of thing. I would recommend getting a coupe of gallons of aircraft paint stripper. This stuff works very well but it is messy. After you use that use a 6 inch DA sander to knock off the rest of the paint and prep the bare metal. After that, put a good epoxy primer down. Now for the engine bay, use a 3 inch angle grinder for the welds with 24 or 36 grit discs. The only way you learn is to do it. If you have any questions feel free to give me a shout, I do this kinda stuff everyday so I can help ya out if ya need anything.
 
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projectfiveo

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#9
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Thanks man I can't find anything on the net for a da sander can someone hook me up with a link so I can view prices on them? And how much does paint stripper run a gallon? Best place to buy it?
 
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projectfiveo

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I found this will it do the job?

Jet JSM-603-5 5 in. Random Orbital DA Sander
 

bgdowski

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Daytona Beach, FL
Dec 29, 2009
#11
  • Dec 29, 2009
  • #11
JET JSM-603-6 6" 10,000 RPM Random Orbital Dual Action Air Sander

That DA will work well for you, assuming you have an air compressor that can keep up. The aircraft stripper is like 20 bucks a gallon last time i checked. You can get it from your local auto store, walmart, home depot, ect. Get yourself a 1.5"-2" metal putty knife to scrape the stripped paint off the metal. Dont get that crap on your hands either, it will burn pretty bad.
 
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MeanVertGT

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Dec 29, 2009
#12
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+1 on the book store. Thats what I do when I need info.
 
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projectfiveo

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#13
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It says da is rated at 90 psi. Is there anyway I can run it with just a 2 hp compressor without paying a couple thousands for a new air comp?
 
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projectfiveo

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#14
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Actually what I should ask is there a good electric sander I can buy that will do the same thing?
 

GSP393

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Dec 31, 2009
#15
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I've got a nice Ingersoll Rand D/A with a palm trigger. Works great and 80 grit is what you want to go from paint to bare metal.
 

BLOWN347STROKER

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topeka kansas
Dec 31, 2009
#16
  • Dec 31, 2009
  • #16
No need to go to bare metal. The factory panels are covered with an epoxy primer/sealer. This is so the metal does not come into contact with moisture and rust. Unless there is rust there already I don't reccomend taking it to bare metal. You should scuff the panels up. If you are looking to get a smooth body I would reccomend going with 320 grit and a da. You can sand most of the body then shoot it with a self etching primer and wet sand it to get a smooth finish for it. As for the air compressor only being 2hp, You will burn up the motor if you try using a da on the car with that small of a compressor. Any questions feel free to pm me. Went to school for collision repair for 2 years at a technical school and do all my own body and paint work. Good luck.
 

apollo12

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#17
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I have a Ingersoll Rand 5hp 60 gallon air compressor, I bought it used for $250.00 and it never lets me down. Try Craigslist for a used one or Ive seen new ones at Harbor Freight for $450.00 and Sears had a 5hp 33 gallon for $299.00 it's not just the hp of a compressor, its also the amount of air it can store and bigger is better!
 
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projectfiveo

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#18
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So no power sander is going to do the job?
 

apollo12

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#19
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The old saying goes"you need the right tool for the job" On a project like your doing I would go for the air tools,no reason to work like a caveman
 

dragin92gt

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Nov 6, 2007
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Jan 1, 2010
#20
  • Jan 1, 2010
  • #20
if it was me,i would invest in a long board. and some 80 grit board paper.
way more safe than a da.
block the entire car and figure out were the work is needed. then get the grinder out. and grind the **** down and add the filler.
 
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