Bolt size for pulling engine?

Kevin Kurtz · Jan 23, 2020

Hi Folks, I'm pulling a DOHC 4.6L engine for overhaul. There are 4 bolt holes in the block for this. 2 are up front driver side, 2 are back passenger side. For the life of me I cannot get the bolt size. 7/16's 20tpi is real close, but not quite right.
Is it possible they are 11mm? I can't fid 11mm any where
I've tried m10. too small. m12 to big.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

STEVE PATTON · Jan 24, 2020

welcome,11,0 mm x 1.5 does exist,but I don't have that engine to check.

Kevin Kurtz · Jan 24, 2020

Thanks Steve...if I figure it out, I'll let you know!

kiddiccarus · Jan 26, 2020

Could do what I did. Use a load strap. Connect it to the headers/manifold and use a lift.

Kevin Kurtz · Jan 26, 2020

Kiddiccarus,
That is a good suggestion. Several have suggested the strap, but also suggested connecting to the alternator bolt(s) and bolts secured to engine side where tranny bell housing connects...the two on top. What do you think of this method?

kiddiccarus · Jan 27, 2020

The real secret in pulling the engine is not where to hoop up to, it is when the lift is tight, the clearance that you have so you are not destroying any good parts.

Here are the common points where people hook.

1: Intake Manifold
2: Remove In take and use a lift plate made to bolt to the intake holes.
3: Headers/exhaust manifold
4: Remove Headers and replace the bolt so it can be the hooking point.

I am currently swapping an engine in my garage, if you click the link in my signature in my above post, you can see how I did it with a load strap.

I basically used a long load ratchet strap and made sure when I pulled it tight it was snug to the engine and not going to harm anything I wanted to keep.

And remove our radiator first, too many people destroy radiators when pulling an engine.

Kevin Kurtz · Jan 27, 2020

Kiddiccarus,
Awesome pics! Well done! And yes, the pic with the engine out is beautiful. I dream about doing the same.
I'm actually pulling a 4.6L DOHC from an 03 Maraduer; same engine as same vintage 'Stang I think.
I did take the radiator out, the transmission fluid cooler and power steering cooler came with it. I'm not pulling the tranny with the engine, though I've loosened the tranny from the engine and will scoot the tranny back before I pull.
Some questions for you - and I really do appreciate your input -
1) Did you strap in 4 directions? Like a strap underneath front to back and another left to right? (cant tell for sure from the pics) If "no" how do you keep the engine from spilling out on an unstrapped side? A tight-tight strap is enough?
2) I'm anticipating real trouble getting out the near tranny k-member. Tried once and the nut wasn't moving. Stripped it. Still got the bolt head side. Did you have to cope with this?
3) I bought a 1 ton crane from harbor freight, assembled, rolled up to car, and - not a long enough boom - ugh. Is your crane a 2 ton ? From Lowes?
4) What are LMR videos?

In the end the tranny might come out as I'm gonna supercharge the engine and I'm not sure if the stock tranny is ok with this..

Thanks again for your help. If you are interested I can post pics.

Kevin Kurtz · Jan 27, 2020

kiddiccarus said:
The real secret in pulling the engine is not where to hoop up to, it is when the lift is tight, the clearance that you have so you are not destroying any good parts.

Here are the common points where people hook.

1: Intake Manifold
2: Remove In take and use a lift plate made to bolt to the intake holes.
3: Headers/exhaust manifold
4: Remove Headers and replace the bolt so it can be the hooking point.

I am currently swapping an engine in my garage, if you click the link in my signature in my above post, you can see how I did it with a load strap.

I basically used a long load ratchet strap and made sure when I pulled it tight it was snug to the engine and not going to harm anything I wanted to keep.

And remove our radiator first, too many people destroy radiators when pulling an engine.

kiddiccarus said:
The real secret in pulling the engine is not where to hoop up to, it is when the lift is tight, the clearance that you have so you are not destroying any good parts.

Here are the common points where people hook.

1: Intake Manifold
2: Remove In take and use a lift plate made to bolt to the intake holes.
3: Headers/exhaust manifold
4: Remove Headers and replace the bolt so it can be the hooking point.

I am currently swapping an engine in my garage, if you click the link in my signature in my above post, you can see how I did it with a load strap.

I basically used a long load ratchet strap and made sure when I pulled it tight it was snug to the engine and not going to harm anything I wanted to keep.

Kevin Kurtz said:

Kiddiccarus,
Awesome pics! Well done! And yes, the pic with the engine out is beautiful. I dream about doing the same.
I'm actually pulling a 4.6L DOHC from an 03 Maraduer; same engine as same vintage 'Stang I think.
I did take the radiator out, the transmission fluid cooler and power steering cooler came with it. I'm not pulling the tranny with the engine, though I've loosened the tranny from the engine and will scoot the tranny back before I pull.
Some questions for you - and I really do appreciate your input -
1) Did you strap in 4 directions? Like a strap underneath front to back and another left to right? (cant tell for sure from the pics) If "no" how do you keep the engine from spilling out on an unstrapped side? A tight-tight strap is enough?
2) I'm anticipating real trouble getting out the near tranny k-member. Tried once and the nut wasn't moving. Stripped it. Still got the bolt head side. Did you have to cope with this?
3) I bought a 1 ton crane from harbor freight, assembled, rolled up to car, and - not a long enough boom - ugh. Is your crane a 2 ton ? From Lowes?
4) What are LMR videos?

In the end the tranny might come out as I'm gonna supercharge the engine and I'm not sure if the stock tranny is ok with this..

Thanks again for your help. If you are interested I can post pics.

Click to expand...

**FYI , found LMR site. Thanks

And remove our radiator first, too many people destroy radiators when pulling an engine.

kiddiccarus · Jan 27, 2020

Kevin Kurtz said:
Kiddiccarus,

I'm actually pulling a 4.6L DOHC from an 03 Maraduer;

I have a 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis sitting in my drive "Ultimate Edition" which will become a Marauder once I begin that project. Less than 100000 miles and rides like a cloud under your butt. Man every time I am driving that car, I put for sale signs up in my mind for the Mustang.

Kevin Kurtz said:
Some questions for you - and I really do appreciate your input -
1) Did you strap in 4 directions? Like a strap underneath front to back and another left to right? (cant tell for sure from the pics) If "no" how do you keep the engine from spilling out on an unstrapped side? A tight-tight strap is enough?
2) I'm anticipating real trouble getting out the near tranny k-member. Tried once and the nut wasn't moving. Stripped it. Still got the bolt head side. Did you have to cope with this?
3) I bought a 1 ton crane from harbor freight, assembled, rolled up to car, and - not a long enough boom - ugh. Is your crane a 2 ton ? From Lowes?
4) What are LMR videos?

In the end the tranny might come out as I'm gonna supercharge the engine and I'm not sure if the stock tranny is ok with this..
t
Thanks again for your help. If you are interested I can post pics.

Answers:

1: I only went side to side with the because I was pulling the tranny also and needed it to tilt. You should not need to go both directions while lifting it up. If you are going to strap it down like I did and work on it, then YES go both directions. You can see in my thread what happens when you don't strap it down and turn a wrench. That Oil Pan only keeps it balanced if you don't touch it. (Engine Lift plate)

2: PB Blaster is a good tool. Soak that nut and bolt, and use a breaker bar on it to bust it loose. If that isn't working, there is always the option of using a bottle torch on it to heat it up. I soaked my trans cross member for 3 days before and after work then used the breaker bar.You can always go to the parts store and get another bolt. WE ALL DO.

3: I have the 2 Ton Engine Hoist from Autozone (Part Number: 80900T ) For this application I had to extend it out to the 1 Ton setting but it has the reach.

4: Sorry on the LMR reference. I am used to the guys already knowing what LMR is. I see that you did find it. Late Model Restoration. They have wonderful videos that can help anyone get the job done. So, please take the time and watch a few as you go alone and hit the pause button. Remember to turn on your closed captions so that you can see the torque requirements and the size of wrench/socket they mention.

5: In my build, I have a Word Class T5 and that was made for V8 and V6 Applications. Look at http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/ I am will be getting the power pack and some forged internals. I will be working towards adding a Supercharger and I know people here in my area that still use this same WCT5 in their daily driver.

I would say that you will have to find the exact transmission that you have and someone here will know the answer.

Kevin Kurtz · Jan 29, 2020

kiddiccarus said:
I have a 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis sitting in my drive "Ultimate Edition" which will become a Marauder once I begin that project. Less than 100000 miles and rides like a cloud under your butt. Man every time I am driving that car, I put for sale signs up in my mind for the Mustang.

Answers:

1: I only went side to side with the because I was pulling the tranny also and needed it to tilt. You should not need to go both directions while lifting it up. If you are going to strap it down like I did and work on it, then YES go both directions. You can see in my thread what happens when you don't strap it down and turn a wrench. That Oil Pan only keeps it balanced if you don't touch it. (Engine Lift plate)

2: PB Blaster is a good tool. Soak that nut and bolt, and use a breaker bar on it to bust it loose. If that isn't working, there is always the option of using a bottle torch on it to heat it up. I soaked my trans cross member for 3 days before and after work then used the breaker bar.You can always go to the parts store and get another bolt. WE ALL DO.

3: I have the 2 Ton Engine Hoist from Autozone (Part Number: 80900T ) For this application I had to extend it out to the 1 Ton setting but it has the reach.

4: Sorry on the LMR reference. I am used to the guys already knowing what LMR is. I see that you did find it. Late Model Restoration. They have wonderful videos that can help anyone get the job done. So, please take the time and watch a few as you go alone and hit the pause button. Remember to turn on your closed captions so that you can see the torque requirements and the size of wrench/socket they mention.

5: In my build, I have a Word Class T5 and that was made for V8 and V6 Applications. Look at http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/ I am will be getting the power pack and some forged internals. I will be working towards adding a Supercharger and I know people here in my area that still use this same WCT5 in their daily driver.

I would say that you will have to find the exact transmission that you have and someone here will know the answer.

Kid,
Thanks very much for all the input. I'll put together some photos and post at some point. I use a Grand Marquis Haynes when going at the Maraduer...usually correct, or close!
-KK

kiddiccarus · Jan 29, 2020

I Just put the engine back into the car tonight. I took these for you. This is how I lifted it without harming anything. Like I said before, it is all about clearance.

Kevin Kurtz · Feb 3, 2020

kiddiccarcus,
Thanks for the above photo. It has inspired me!
I've been trying to get out the k-member with no luck. Shop manual says it's pressed in and to expect it to be in there pretty tight.
So...PB blaster and a pry bar, no luck yet.
But I did disconnect the transmission completely, including the bolts that hold the transmission to the k-member via the tranny insulator; this allowed me to gently pry the tranny back an inch or two from the block. So...I'm gonna try getting the engine out now.
Back to your inspiration - I'm planning on going under the lower intake manifold (the "tunnel" entry you see in the pic below), and loop around that manifold with a strap. As you've said, that should allow a straight up lift.

What do you think?
Also, any tip for getting the engine off the hoist an onto the engine stand when that time comes? I'll be renting the hoist, so I'd like to get it out and mounted on the stand in all the same day.
Thanks Kid!

kiddiccarus · Feb 3, 2020

It looks ike that tunnel passes clean through that intake. I am assuming that it is aluminum, so as long as you didn't loosen any of the bolts on it, it will be a secure connection to the engine. When you loop that strap through, if you can do two passes and get it as tight against the intake as possible. Then put the hook from the lift through it and that should give you the "closeness" you will need for when the lift is at its apex and the engine can clear the bay.

The Engine stand is easy, you will be threading into where the transmission mounts. 4 bolts, I bought 4 just for this a few years back on a previous build. I think that you can use the ones that came out of the transmission though.

Get the engine in the air and clear the bay, then while its on the lift still pull the stand up to it, spin the engine so that you can bolt it up and then release the pressure on the hydraulic. Once you are ready to put it back in, then just reverse the process.

Think of replacing the engine mounts also when its ready to go back in, makes sense since its something you have to mess with anyways.

Kevin Kurtz · Feb 8, 2020

Kiddiccarus,
Well, it worked!
Harbor Freight allowed me to return the 1 ton crane for a 2 ton crane (+ 53$) and the boom was long enough. Whew.
You can see how we positioned the hoist / crane... came in from the side due to garage exit height limitations (car is backed in garage)
Had some minor issue releasing and lifting engine
- cylindrical tabs on tranny into block wouldnt clear
- transmission wouldn't back up any more due to k-member/tranny isolater connection - couldn't get kmember out
- engine wouldn't go forward because of motor mount (straight up ok, but mounts attached to frame wouldn't allow block to move forward
So, with some effort we removed all 6 bolts holding the mounts in place, pushed the engine forward a bit (on hoist /crane of course) and wala
Later the same day with a 7 foot crow bar (and several days of PB blaster spraying & soaking) we got that dang K-member out. Geez.
After that we wiggled the tranny out of there scooting it out through the wheel well (front passenger wheel removed) on the ground and getting tranny fluid everywhere. The dip stick tube had to be pulled out of the tranny to help with removal from under the car.

It was really quite fun! Had a beer and cigar whilst working!

So...got any advice on what to upgrade inside my engine and tranny given I want to get somewhere around 425-450 horses via added supercharger?
I plan on taking the engine (stripped down as req'd) to a racing shop for the internals work. No plans on tranny yet. However, at this point I am open to all input and would value yours.

Thanks again for your excellent help - much appreciated.
Also, kudos to my good buddies Rick and George without whose help I would have dropped the dang block on my head no doubt.

kiddiccarus · Feb 8, 2020

Gratz on getting it out. Damn that looks good there. My mess from the transmission was huge. Dump some kitty litter on it and let it soak up. shovel it then repeat. It will clean itself. Glad the advice helped make this easier for you.

First thing that comes to my mind.

WHAT are you gonna do with that Marauder? People may be interested in that as a roller for a sleeper build.

Some of the V8 guys need to chime in here on some specifics but to get where you looking to be in HP and since you are already planning a total tear down anyways.

Media blast everything to clean and begin fresh
Forged internals
Port and polish intake
Port match headers
American Thunder Cat back
Fender well CAI
Torque Box

The Principal is the same in any engine that certain steps should be taken to get to the HP gain you are looking for. In this aspect My field lies more in the V6 realm, the Grand Maquis is under 100k miles and looks so pretty as it sits for now. @a91what and @Noobz347 might be able to step in here and help with the V8 specific advice for the HP and Transmission. I will as always chime in where I can to help.

Kevin Kurtz · Apr 27, 2020

kiddiccarus said:
I have a 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis sitting in my drive "Ultimate Edition" which will become a Marauder once I begin that project. Less than 100000 miles and rides like a cloud under your butt. Man every time I am driving that car, I put for sale signs up in my mind for the Mustang.

Answers:

1: I only went side to side with the because I was pulling the tranny also and needed it to tilt. You should not need to go both directions while lifting it up. If you are going to strap it down like I did and work on it, then YES go both directions. You can see in my thread what happens when you don't strap it down and turn a wrench. That Oil Pan only keeps it balanced if you don't touch it. (Engine Lift plate)

2: PB Blaster is a good tool. Soak that nut and bolt, and use a breaker bar on it to bust it loose. If that isn't working, there is always the option of using a bottle torch on it to heat it up. I soaked my trans cross member for 3 days before and after work then used the breaker bar.You can always go to the parts store and get another bolt. WE ALL DO.

3: I have the 2 Ton Engine Hoist from Autozone (Part Number: 80900T ) For this application I had to extend it out to the 1 Ton setting but it has the reach.

4: Sorry on the LMR reference. I am used to the guys already knowing what LMR is. I see that you did find it. Late Model Restoration. They have wonderful videos that can help anyone get the job done. So, please take the time and watch a few as you go alone and hit the pause button. Remember to turn on your closed captions so that you can see the torque requirements and the size of wrench/socket they mention.

5: In my build, I have a Word Class T5 and that was made for V8 and V6 Applications. Look at http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/ I am will be getting the power pack and some forged internals. I will be working towards adding a Supercharger and I know people here in my area that still use this same WCT5 in their daily driver.

I would say that you will have to find the exact transmission that you have and someone here will know the answer.

Kiddicarrus,
How are you? Doing well in these crazy times I hope.
I'm good and been working away on my Marauder...
Engine out and at the shop..forged crank, forged rods, 20 over bore, new pistons. Leaving cams the same. Put a shift kit in the tranny. Leaving the torque converter at 3000 stall in place. I'll get kooks non-catted long pipe headers (the county the car is registered in has no smog testing requirement). I'm getting a ADTR bolt on supercharger that can go up to 14" of boost (I'm planning for 6-8). I rebuilt the calipers, replaced power steering pump (it was leaking I think), replacing radiator, headlights and then body and paint. I think it will be fast!
I'll send you a pic or two of the engine when I get it back.
Take care, and thanks again for your help along the way.

kiddiccarus · Apr 27, 2020

Damn, that is some progress. Glad to hear things are going well for you and the Marauder. I have had some progress on the Mustang. Got the engine in, burnt up a clutch, back in the garage now for a fuel pump upgrade and a torque box kit install. The GM is still running bone stock and taking out GT's left and right LOL. They see a grey full sized sedan rolling up on the quick and always shut it down thinking I am the Police.

Bolt size for pulling engine?

Kevin Kurtz

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I smell a conspiracy

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The first widely accepted Tranny

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