I'm thinking this might be more than just a burnt out bulbs. I was about to drive home and the only way I could get my lights to work was by holding the high beams on. They wouldn't stay on I had to hold the turn signal lever to get the lights to stay on. Any ideas on what it might be?
both headlights just went out.
- Thread starter deltusurf
- Start date
The problem is a failed multifunction switch or wiring that has overheated and melted the plastic connector shell that holds the electrical contacts.
A word of caution about multifunction switches is in order here. The multifunction switch (high/low beam, wiper, turn signals) are different for different years. 87-98 will work in any 87-89 car. The 90-93 switches only work in 90-93 cars. You can't put an early model switch in a late model car, nor can you put a late model switch in an early car.
A word of caution about multifunction switches is in order here. The multifunction switch (high/low beam, wiper, turn signals) are different for different years. 87-98 will work in any 87-89 car. The 90-93 switches only work in 90-93 cars. You can't put an early model switch in a late model car, nor can you put a late model switch in an early car.
Kdubslugga
Active Member
Same EXACT problem you had. Almost certain its the multifunction switch. If you take it apart, i bet theres some burnt wires in there, probably even melted the plastic.
bmorrisj
Member
additionally, the feed wire from the headlight switch to the MF switch (red?) can back out of the connector (did you happen to hit a bump when the lights went out?). as said, check the connectors before you pay the $$ for a new switch.
good luck.
good luck.
Kdubslugga
Active Member
well good news not melted wires or a switch. I just noticed that my dimmer switch doesn't work is it possible the two are related. I checked all the wires and my problem seems to be between the red wire at the headlight switch to the headlight itself. I was able to jump directly from the switch to the light and it came on.
Also any chance there is a relay that went bad in between the switch and the light?
Also any chance there is a relay that went bad in between the switch and the light?
im not sure i follow what you found. be warned that the low beam (headlight) wiring leaves the headlight switch and goes through the multifunction switch, then to the light bulbs. this allow the MF switch (your turnsignal stalk) to do the switching to brights, etc.
if you wire it directly, you will lose this function. im thinking i missed the boat on what you were saying, so i apologize if that is the case.
i highly recommend putting relays on highs, lows and fogs (if you have them). do fogs at a minimum.
good luck.
if you wire it directly, you will lose this function. im thinking i missed the boat on what you were saying, so i apologize if that is the case.
i highly recommend putting relays on highs, lows and fogs (if you have them). do fogs at a minimum.
good luck.
Ok well I'm dealing with the original facotry wiring. I have not made any changes as far as adding or removing relays. where I am now is after testing the switch to see if that was my problem I have come to the conclusion that my headlight switch works properly, but the is something not working between the headlight itself and the switch. My multifunction switch appears to be working as well I am able to use turn signals winshield wipers and even illuminate the high beams but only by pulling back. I call them the flash to pass lights. I can not push the switch forward and have the high beams work. ( they would normally stay on constant) I did notice that my dimmer switch ( for the interior dome light and instrument panel) isn't controlling the dash lights anymore but it does still turn on the dome light. I hope that I have made this clearer any help would be appreciated.
hissin50 it seem that you were right. I went to Ford and reluctantly paid the $40 diagnosis fee only to find out it was the multifunction switch. I'll know for sure when i get a chance to put it in. Right now it time to prepare for Hurricane Charley. Thanks for the help.
i think a few people beat me to the proper diagnosis (it had to be the MF switch or the wiring, as everyone said before i diddeltusurf said:
). sounds like a nice deal on the diagnostic price - i would expect the dealer to charge more. and now you know. new switches can be found for 75 bucks from stang sites (im not sure i would mess with a junkyard unit on this one. but if money is tight....).
good luck and glad it should be figured out.
95Vert383AOD
15 Year Member
Ive had a similar issue with the pull/ dimmer switch on my 95 mustang where the wire got so hot that it melted the plastic and i was going threw switches like crazy.
I noticed that if you cut the wire that keeps overheating and attach 6 inches of a thicker gauge wire between the factory wiring and the clip in the plastic harness that the plastic will stop overheating making a permanent fix to this issue.
Example~ Ever use a vacuum cleaner or something with a high draw for a long time and notice that the wire near the plug is warm? Well by increasing the gauge of the wire near the connection will help keep the wire from overheating. The heat from the wire transfers to the metal in the switch ruining the switch as well. That's why you'll notice that you can easily bend the pin that was heating up while the others are much stiffer.
You guys can thank me later
OOPS WRONG thread...i ment to post this to the more current thread on this topic....sorry for the confusion.
I noticed that if you cut the wire that keeps overheating and attach 6 inches of a thicker gauge wire between the factory wiring and the clip in the plastic harness that the plastic will stop overheating making a permanent fix to this issue.
Example~ Ever use a vacuum cleaner or something with a high draw for a long time and notice that the wire near the plug is warm? Well by increasing the gauge of the wire near the connection will help keep the wire from overheating. The heat from the wire transfers to the metal in the switch ruining the switch as well. That's why you'll notice that you can easily bend the pin that was heating up while the others are much stiffer.
You guys can thank me later
OOPS WRONG thread...i ment to post this to the more current thread on this topic....sorry for the confusion.
For the fox guys, note that SN95's have the dimmer integral to the headlight switch. If that's unknown to the reader (people have foxes and their separate dimmers on the brain), this could be confusing.Ive had a similar issue with the pull/ dimmer switch on my 95 mustang where the wire got so hot that it melted the plastic and i was going threw switches like crazy.
I noticed that if you cut the wire that keeps overheating and attach 6 inches of a thicker gauge wire between the factory wiring and the clip in the plastic harness that the plastic will stop overheating making a permanent fix to this issue.
Example~ Ever use a vacuum cleaner or something with a high draw for a long time and notice that the wire near the plug is warm? Well by increasing the gauge of the wire near the connection will help keep the wire from overheating. The heat from the wire transfers to the metal in the switch ruining the switch as well. That's why you'll notice that you can easily bend the pin that was heating up while the others are much stiffer.
You guys can thank me later
OOPS WRONG thread...i ment to post this to the more current thread on this topic....sorry for the confusion.
95Vert383AOD
15 Year Member
Sorry about the confusion. Its basically the same problem in 2 different locations. The hot wire is caused be resistance at the connection. Using a thicker gauge than factory will keep the wire from heating to the point where it melts the plug and internals of the switch regardless of where the resistance/ melting plug is. I went from changing switches every 3-6 months. I removed the switch recently after 1 1/2 years to find no new heat problems.
Basically when it comes to headlights ford didn't like using a thick enough wire to the switch for a few decades.
Basically when it comes to headlights ford didn't like using a thick enough wire to the switch for a few decades.
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