Engine Both Radiator Hoses Collapsed

JordanB21 · Oct 2, 2012

I was driving the car (of course) and the temperature gauge (if reading accurately, see my other thread) picked up to about the O in normal, it stabilized there but I felt like it was running hotter than that.
When I opened the hood the rod to hold the hood up was extremely hot to the touch, and both the upper and lower radiator hoses were collapsed. I did fill the coolant up recently so it isn't low.

I also don't have a radiator fan shroud, this could be contributing, but really how much does that help?

Ideas on the hoses being as flat as a pancake (literally)?

Thanks

gearheadboy · Oct 2, 2012

Bad radiator cap or plugged hose to the coolant tank.

JordanB21 · Oct 2, 2012

wellll, lets hope it's the radiator cap since I picked up one the other day out of a 2.3 cause it was shinier than mine
I'll wash it before swapping.

Any run off of coolant when pulling the hoses (shtill a newb)?

boostfrk · Oct 2, 2012

You'll lose a lot of coolant when you remove the lower hose, basically everything in the radiator will drain.

JordanB21 · Oct 2, 2012

Blehh. More money down the drain.

But could be the source for my high temperatures, si?

gearheadboy · Oct 2, 2012

Well if the hose is sucked shut while driving you aren't getting any flow so ya..and also the higher a pressure in a cooling system, the higher the boiling point. Sucked shut = vacuum or low pressure so it will boil at a lower temp.

Jace78 · Oct 2, 2012

For sure the cause of the high temperature, personally would not drive it until you swap back and get fresh coolant in there, then let it warm up so the t-stat opens and watch in in your driveway, if they pancake again kill it.

JordanB21 · Oct 2, 2012

great, easy enough fix if that's right.

and again, radiator shroud fan missing any big deal? ney or yey?

gearheadboy · Oct 2, 2012

Yes you need a shroud.

JordanB21 · Oct 2, 2012

Who tosses a radiator shroud! previous owners. smh.

mikestang63 · Oct 2, 2012

You need both a good shroud and the air deflector located under the radiator support. Both are essential pieces for the cooling system that is either damaged or missing, your engine will run hotter. A guy sells a great aluminum replacement deflector piece on EBAY for $30 and it doesn't deflect like the factory unit. For the shroud, try a junkyard or on the message boards. There are always folk parting out mustangs. Also, check the clutch fan. spin it with your hand. It should not spin freely . For the new hoses, make sure there is a spring especially in the lower hose to prevent them from collapsing again. I think the stat is 16 lb? Get the stant safety cap with the latch. while you are at it might as well throw a new stant 180 stat in and a bottle of purple ice.

JordanB21 · Oct 2, 2012

Need to get about 100 dollars together and a day of time and i'll address it all, thanks for the very speedy responses.
I'll take a look at new hoses (though I understand they're not needed) the deflector shroud and so on.

Now I defer you guys to my other thread about my gauge cluster

Thanks!

JordanB21 · Oct 2, 2012

mikestang63 said:
You need both a good shroud and the air deflector located under the radiator support. Both are essential pieces for the cooling system that is either damaged or missing, your engine will run hotter. A guy sells a great aluminum replacement deflector piece on EBAY for $30 and it doesn't deflect like the factory unit. For the shroud, try a junkyard or on the message boards. There are always folk parting out mustangs. Also, check the clutch fan. spin it with your hand. It should not spin freely . For the new hoses, make sure there is a spring especially in the lower hose to prevent them from collapsing again. I think the stat is 16 lb? Get the stant safety cap with the latch. while you are at it might as well throw a new stant 180 stat in and a bottle of purple ice.

found the guy that sells the air deflectors all over the forums, looks quality and a lot of reivews, thanks!

ratio411 · Oct 3, 2012

The lower hose must have a spring in it. If you can't find one to buy, make a spring by coiling up a wire hanger.
The idea is not for springiness, but to keep the hose from collapsing.

I have never heard of the upper hose collapsing. The upper is under pressure, not suction like the lower.
The upper balloons out when it's under stress. It's very strange to hear of it collapsing.

ratio411 · Oct 3, 2012

I wonder if your thermostat was stuck shut?
If the water pump is trying like crazy to pull in water, but the stat was stuck shut, the extreme suction that flattened the lower hose might extend through the radiator and suck the upper hose shut as well. That is the only thing that makes sense to me anyway.

JordanB21 · Oct 3, 2012

I was a little confused to why both hoses would collapse, I couldn't imagine it's from debris. But if it's the original 192 thermostat then replace it with a 180 would be a double favor.
Though because of the double collapse I figured it'd be more likely to be the radiator cap.

Dino Dino Bambino · Oct 3, 2012

JordanB21 said:
I was driving the car (of course) and the temperature gauge (if reading accurately, see my other thread) picked up to about the O in normal, it stabilized there but I felt like it was running hotter than that.
When I opened the hood the rod to hold the hood up was extremely hot to the touch, and both the upper and lower radiator hoses were collapsed. I did fill the coolant up recently so it isn't low.

I also don't have a radiator fan shroud, this could be contributing, but really how much does that help?

Ideas on the hoses being as flat as a pancake (literally)?

If the engine was running hot at speed, it wouldn't make any difference even if you had no fan/shroud at all. The air deflector only has a minor effect. Collapsed coolant hoses means you have vacuum in the system and that can only happen if the radiator cap is bad, the hose from radiator to overflow reservoir is blocked, or there's sludge at the bottom of the overflow reservoir. The hoses must also be toast so what you need to do is:

1. Flush both the radiator and the engine cooling passages with a garden hose. Detaching the thermostat water neck from the intake manifold will make the latter easier and while you're there, you might as well replace the thermostat as well.

2. Replace both radiator hoses and the radiator cap.

3. Check the hose from radiator to overflow reservoir and replace if necessary.

4. Remove overflow reservoir and wash it out thoroughly.

5. Add air deflector and fan shroud.

JordanB21 · Oct 3, 2012

Bullitt95 said:
If the engine was running hot at speed, it wouldn't make any difference even if you had no fan/shroud at all. The air deflector only has a minor effect. Collapsed coolant hoses means you have vacuum in the system and that can only happen if the radiator cap is bad, the hose from radiator to overflow reservoir is blocked, or there's sludge at the bottom of the overflow reservoir. The hoses must also be toast so what you need to do is:

1. Flush both the radiator and the engine cooling passages with a garden hose. Detaching the thermostat water neck from the intake manifold will make the latter easier and while you're there, you might as well replace the thermostat as well.

2. Replace both radiator hoses and the radiator cap.

3. Check the hose from radiator to overflow reservoir and replace if necessary.

4. Remove overflow reservoir and wash it out thoroughly.

5. Add air deflector and fan shroud.

I don't quite have a overflow reservoir, the spot below the radiator cap is capped off with a rubber piece and crimp.

Today I also added about a liter or so of antifreeze, it was a bit low, and I filled it up till it was visible. I still plan to replace the thermo, upper and lower hoses, deflector, and shroud.
But should I go and put back in a overflow reservoir?

I can't even understand why you would remove it. It just sounds like the guy wants cooling issues-__-

gearheadboy · Oct 3, 2012

JordanB21 said:
I don't quite have a overflow reservoir, the spot below the radiator cap is capped off with a rubber piece and crimp.

Today I also added about a liter or so of antifreeze, it was a bit low, and I filled it up till it was visible. I still plan to replace the thermo, upper and lower hoses, deflector, and shroud.
But should I go and put back in a overflow reservoir?

I can't even understand why you would remove it. It just sounds like the guy wants cooling issues-__-

YOU FOUND THE PROBLEM! That port needs to be open and either hooked to a catch can or a reservoir. The reservoir (factory tank) is the best way. Put a factory jug on it and call it a day. Problem solved.

mikestang63 · Oct 3, 2012

JordanB21 said:
I don't quite have a overflow reservoir, the spot below the radiator cap is capped off with a rubber piece and crimp.

Today I also added about a liter or so of antifreeze, it was a bit low, and I filled it up till it was visible. I still plan to replace the thermo, upper and lower hoses, deflector, and shroud.
But should I go and put back in a overflow reservoir?

I can't even understand why you would remove it. It just sounds like the guy wants cooling issues-__-

BINGO!!!!!!!!! Whoever capped that off is an idiot. Put on an overflow and a new overflow hose. Flush and fill with 50/50. When you flush and fill turn the heat all the way to hot and to full ON.. It helps to he the car on a little angle so the front is higher to help get the air bubbles out. Then go from there.

Engine Both Radiator Hoses Collapsed

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